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Thread: Need help! Problem removing accessories belt!

  1. #1
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    Need help! Problem removing accessories belt!

    I've recently purchased my first BMW, a 2001 525i, and have been updating a few items. I noticed a leak in the radiator and have a new one coming in tomorrow. Already pulled the fan, shroud, and radiator out when I noticed some cracking in the AC and serpentine belts. AC belt came off no problem at all, but when I try to release tension for the serpentine at the point labeled in the photo, the screw rotates on me. Any ideas? Am I doing something wrong here?
    image.jpeg
    Thanks in advance for any help!

    - - - Updated - - -

    /thread

    sorted it out via YouTube. The pulley itself had an Allen screw on it that I managed to turn clockwise to release the tension

  2. #2
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    Last edited by Saii; 08-31-2016 at 07:32 AM. Reason: .

  3. #3
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    I don't think that is the tensioner. Its been awhile since I did mine but I think the tensioner is the gold one just below that. You are smart for doing the whole front of the engine while the radiator is out. That is what I did on my 2000 528. Put a socket on that big nut and push it to the left to see if that is the one. Keep your picture handy for re-installing the belt! Its a crazy path but makes sense once you get it back on.

    The tensioner pulley bearings are notorious for going out, and the tensioners do fail over time. Beware to get the same style tensioner you have in your car, there are two types.

    I think there was another idler pulley I replaced while there. I also did the water pump -VERY easy to do, a simple remove and replace and I swapped the thermo while there. New radiator hoses and belts basically zero-timed the whole front of the engine. It was cake while the radiator was out. Nearly impossible with the radiator in. Then, you are done for another five or six years with only a serpentine belt and maybe hoses to do, which are fairly easy with the radiator installed. And, you save kaboodles in labor.

    Good for you on doing it yourself. The parts are cheaper than GM parts and the work is not all that hard once you get the radiator out. The toughie was getting the fan off and you did that. My radiator was $158 on sale and the same month my bro blew his Suburban radiator: $300!

    Safety Hint: Keep your radiator covered with cardboard until its sitting in the engine compartment. Its easy to bend up the cooling fins while installing/fiddling with the install. Cutting a couple pieces of cardboard you can peel off later really helps.


    Ray
    Last edited by CaptainStark; 09-01-2016 at 09:41 AM.

  4. #4
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    As noted the tensioner is the pulley below that bolt. You'll need a torx bit and some muscle to push the pulley down. The pulley's movement isn't straight down but circular as the pulley sits on an arm that is pushed upwards to tension the pulley.

  5. #5
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    Licata,

    Any luck with the serpentine belt?

    Ray

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainStark View Post
    Licata,

    Any luck with the serpentine belt?

    Ray
    Apologies for taking so long to look back on here. Yes i managed to sort it out that same evening, and you're right, it was the gold one below the one i labeled in the picture. Looking at tutorials via youtube gave me the impression that it was the initial one I had labeled.

    The thing is, I bought the car a little over 2 weeks ago, and within 36 hours the radiator blew as seen below
    IMG_3269.jpg

    Ordered a Nissens radiator and upper and lower radiator hoses. The fan certainly was a hassle but i managed to break the nut free with an adjustable wrench and the backside of a hatchet. The thermostat looked relatively new so i left that and the water pump be for now.

    Next on the docket list is new euro spec headlights since mine are currently pointing downward making night time driving a little sketchy. Not sure why they're doing that(already checked the plastic adjusters and they are still in tact). Then I'm saving up to update the suspension

  7. #7
    Pelican Parts's Avatar
    Pelican Parts is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    Hi Licata....I've attached a link to our tech articles where you'll be able to find info on DIY fixes for your 525i. I hope this helps you out in the future with any issues you may encounter. Good luck!

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...h_main_E39.htm


    -Dmitry
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pelican Parts View Post
    Hi Licata....I've attached a link to our tech articles where you'll be able to find info on DIY fixes for your 525i. I hope this helps you out in the future with any issues you may encounter. Good luck!

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...h_main_E39.htm


    -Dmitry
    Wow thats some great info for me as a first time bmw owner. Thank you!

  9. #9
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    Licata,

    My 2000 528 headlights have an auto leveler that points the headlights down when turned off. When you turn them on, they servo up to the set position. That is driven by a sensor under the engine that takes position data off the suspension. Yours may be toast so check that first. The sensor is easy to get to and easy to replace. The idea is, if you have a safe load of gold in your trunk, it points your headlights down so as not to be a bother for oncoming traffic. Take the load out, and the lights re-position.

    Your lights may be pointed down awaiting information from that sensor upon start-up.

    Ray
    Last edited by CaptainStark; 09-16-2016 at 02:41 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainStark View Post
    Licata,

    My 2000 528 headlights have an auto leveler that points the headlights down when turned off. When you turn them on, they servo up to the set position. That is driven by a sensor under the engine that takes position data off the suspension. Yours may be toast so check that first. The sensor is easy to get to and easy to replace. The idea is, if you have a safe load of gold in your trunk, it points your headlights down so as not to be a bother for oncoming traffic. Take the load out, and the lights re-position.

    Your lights may be pointed down awaiting information from that sensor upon start-up.

    Ray
    My 2001 525 is non-xenon and has the fixed leveling that you can adjust with an Allen key. Unfortunately that does nothing tho. I think the plastic adjusters are broken where they connect to the actual adjuster. I've got some all new depo halogens coming in tomorrow since the whole headlight assembly could use replacement. Those should hold me over for a few years til I can really start dumping money into the car

  11. #11
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    Licata,

    You probably know this already but AutoHausAZ.com or Rock Auto has parts for your car at a great price. My brother blew his Suburban radiator a month before my 528 popped a pinhole leak. His radiator was over $350. My BEHR OEM replacement radiator was $158. German law requires auto manufacturers to provide parts for ten years after a car is made. BMW gets them from several suppliers so when you get a selection of say, air filters, the ones saying OEM are identical to the ones you get at BMW -except for the price. I did my brake pads and rotors on my 528 a few years back and it ran me under $400. The same service at the dealer is $1800. And brake work is pretty darn easy. Messy, but easy.

    Have fun.

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