DIY Master Remote Key for Cheap

[RocketSurgeon]

Hey, I cut and program keys, but I understand not everyone is comfortable removing and shipping off their EWS module. I wanted to share an affordable way to get a master remote key for less than half the dealer cost. Getting a shell and cutting it is simple enough, the transponder is where people run into problems. For a master remote key, you need three things: The shell, the transponder, and the remote board.
In a factory key, the transponder is part of the remote board. In aftermarket keys, the transponder and remote are separate. Key blanks can be had on ebay or aliexpress for under $30. Aliexpress might actually be the better bet. The better quality shells have a thin circular rim around the lock button where the included roundel goes. For the transponder, you can get a cheap non-remote key from the BMW dealership. While the master remote keys are very expensive from the dealer, the valet, wallet, or universal keys are actually affordable. My local dealer is wickedly overpriced, and the valet key is $40. You just need the cheapest key that has a transponder to start the car. I happen to have a valet key

If you get a small screwdriver, you can separate the key halves to reveal the transponder.


Now take the transponder and install it in the master shell with a dab of glue. Install the remote board on top. There are two styles of remote board, rechargeable and non-rechargeable with a replaceable battery. The rechargeable has the copper induction coil.



Now you just need to snap the key together and get it cut, then follow the remote sync procedure.




If you like the guide, feel free to share it.

[DrCharles]

Thanks for the info... a couple of questions:
First, what key position is "KL R"? Run (ignition on)?
Also, WTH does "if the keys are not initialized in the same order prior to initialization" mean??

thanks

[Plattus1000]

Thanks for the info... a couple of questions:
First, what key position is "KL R"? Run (ignition on)?
Also, WTH does "if the keys are not initialized in the same order prior to initialization" mean??

thanks

KLR, the stop position just before the position of key turn just before where the car starts.

When doing the initialization process, you do one key, then quickly, the other keys to be initialized.

So, once the locks activate and deactivate, grab another key and press the appropriate buttons till the locks again cycke. If you have 5 keys, do this 5 times.

[gmak]

Where did you glue the transponder? on the underside of the circuit board in the picture?

[Qsilver7]

Thanks for the info... a couple of questions:

1. First, what key position is "KL R"? Run (ignition on)?

2. Also, WTH does "if the keys are not initialized in the same order prior to initialization" mean??

thanks

Some Answers

1. KL R is ignition position 1 (the position right after OFF)...KL 15 is ignition position 2... & KL 50 is "start" position 3.

2. That statement (in the instructions) applies to those that have new style remotes that have specific key/car memory settings. To code these specific key/car memory settings...each key is assigned a numeric code (key 1, key 2, key 3, key 4). If you've done this (again, this is only doable with the new style diamond shaped keys)...then you need to reinitialize them in their "key order". If not, then some of the key/car memory features you've coded will not operate as coded.

If you haven't coded any key/car memory functions (like seat setting for you on key 1 & seat settings for your spouse on key 2)...then it won't matter what order you reinitialize the keys.

It also doesn't matter what order you reinitialize them if you have the old style keys...because its not capable of key/car memory coding.

Ignition positions:

[joekitch]

ah-hah, so rocketsurgeon confirms my long-held theory of cheap new keys!

although it still seems like getting the key cut is tricky, i still haven't located a locksmith that will cut these kinds of keys for less than $1000 a pop up here in central massachusetts.

what should i ask for over the phone? if they can cut high security or double sided leys?

edit: nevermind, a place called alan's locksmith in worcester can do the metal cutting on a 'high security' key for $25, cool.
so $15 for an ebay key
$25 to cut the key
$50 for a valet key
$90 all-in for a fully functional master key, sounds pretty good to me.

[sienayr]

Thanks for this info, great stuff.

I had a freak occurrence where I was walking in a parking lot, and I dropped my keys beside me, right in front of an oncoming car. The car ran over my key, and ever since it has been flaky starting the car (keyless entry works fine). There didn't seem to be any visible physical damage to the board, but I cannot count it starting the car consistently. It worked fine for a while and I thought it was good to go, until one day I was almost stranded because the car wouldn't start. Finally got it started but haven't used the key since.

If I put a transponder in my key from a valet key as illustrated, anyone know if that might cause issues since there is already a transponder in there that works intermittently?

[Qsilver7]

Another thing to consider...if you've gone through your 10 original key positions...then you may want to get the link to the forum member Plattus used/recommends (I can only remember his real name (Dillon)...don't remember what his forum name is).

Because he can create a new key using the old key code & positions that are already burned into your EWS-CM (control module). Your EWS-CM can only be programmed to work with 10 keys. The original owner got 4 keys with the car when new...and 6 other key codes where burned into the EWS-CM when it came off the assembly line. When owners request new keys...BMW accesses the database for your car based on its VIN to use one of the remaining keys codes that were saved.

So if you've gone through all 10 keys...you would be required to buy a new EWS-CM along with the ability to burn 10 new keys into it (this is costly). So someone that has an AK90 which can retrieve these old key codes & ISN etc...then write this info to a new transponder to be inserted into another blank replacement key...then you can save a lot of money.

- - - Updated - - -

If I put a transponder in my key from a valet key as illustrated, anyone know if that might cause issues since there is already a transponder in there that works intermittently?

I can't see how this would be an issue because each key's transponder for a particular VIN has the identical ISN (individual serial number) burned into it.

One could verify this by using any of their spare keys they have now. If you have both keys on the same key ring or one in your pocket or hand & one on in the ignition...you shouldn't have any problem starting your car.

This is also how some bypass EWS issues. They may have a remote key where FZV/DWA has failed...but it still starts the car. You can buy an old style remote key (since it has a replaceable CR2016 battery) and program it to lock/unlock and arm/disarm your car for keyless remote operation...but then use your non remote key to start your car. The used remote key can still have its original EWS transponder that is coded for another BMW...and it won't affect your key that is coded for your car.

Another & final example...I can have both keys on me...from my e38 & e53...and there's no issue starting either of them and backing them out of the garage. I've done this many, many times...2 remotes with 2 different EWS transponders right next to each other...and there's no starting problems.

[sienayr]

<gears turning in head> Seems like you could just attach the transponder to the steering column somehow and be done with it. Not too worried about my car being stolen.

Thanks for the info QSilver7.

[joekitch]

<gears turning in head> Seems like you could just attach the transponder to the steering column somehow and be done with it. Not too worried about my car being stolen.

Thanks for the info QSilver7.

you literally could do that, yeah. then you never have to worry about transponders at all, just making sure you use a correctly cut key.
downside is it becomes trivial to seal of course since the "high security" ignition cylinder is probably easy to pick
upside is most thieves don't even bother with bmws or most high end german cars because they're such a headache to steal unless they have specialized equipment......and if they do, whether or not the transponder is there won't matter

[wasaabi]

A thread like this shows that you genuinely want to help the community. Thank you very much!!!

[mapleridge]

thanks for sharing.

[wasaabi]

Valet keys in Las Vegas: $113 + tax
Valet keys in Southern California (Crevier): $85 + tax

-_____-

[djb2]

<gears turning in head> Seems like you could just attach the transponder to the steering column somehow and be done with it. Not too worried about my car being stolen.

Thanks for the info QSilver7.

If you wanted to go that route, EWS immobilizer "emulators" are available for under $20 (currently $9 on FleaBay). They replace the real EWS system and simply always report "Yup, the key matches, go ahead and start".

[RocketSurgeon]

Hey, I meant to chime in sooner to answer some questions, but nursing school has been keeping me busy.

Where did you glue the transponder? on the underside of the circuit board in the picture?

There is a small recess in the bottom half of the shell designed for this. It's a little square slot near the base of the key blade. I attach mine with a dab of RTV.

The car ran over my key, and ever since it has been flaky starting the car (keyless entry works fine). There didn't seem to be any visible physical damage to the board, but I cannot count it starting the car consistently. It worked fine for a while and I thought it was good to go, until one day I was almost stranded because the car wouldn't start.
If I put a transponder in my key from a valet key as illustrated, anyone know if that might cause issues since there is already a transponder in there that works intermittently?

I would guess the antenna got damaged, that's the little copper coil thing. That can lead to intermittent reception on the transponder. If you feel confident soldering, I can send you a spare antenna. I have extra parts I'll never use, just shoot me a PM. You cannot use more than one transponder at a time, I've tried it. I'm guessing that both transponders get activated and interfere with each other.

Another thing to consider...if you've gone through your 10 original key positions...then you may want to get the link to the forum member Plattus used/recommends (I can only remember his real name (Dillon)...don't remember what his forum name is).
So someone that has an AK90 which can retrieve these old key codes & ISN etc...then write this info to a new transponder to be inserted into another blank replacement key...then you can save a lot of money.
- - - Updated - - -
I can't see how this would be an issue because each key's transponder for a particular VIN has the identical ISN (individual serial number) burned into it.
One could verify this by using any of their spare keys they have now. If you have both keys on the same key ring or one in your pocket or hand & one on in the ignition...you shouldn't have any problem starting your car.

I'm Dillon, I do the key stuff, I just wanted to offer up a DIY option too. I have quite a few people contact me about keys, but shipping me the EWS is a problem. I wanted to share a workaround so that people could avoid removing and shipping the EWS.
I tried having two transponders housed within the same key, and it wouldn't work. I'm assuming there was interference with both transponders talking over each other to communicate at the same time. The transponder system actually stores a lot of information. I can read the Vin, mileage from the last time that key was used, and the key number. It even tells me the year, plant of manufacture, and sometimes the type of airbags. The key has two start codes, one static, and one rolling code. Both must match to start the car. So every time you start the car, a new 26 digit rolling code is written to the transponder. That's why you can't just clone the transponder like GM. The inductive ring antenna works best communicating with a transponder positioned inside the ring. I'm guessing another key on the same ring wouldn't cause a problem being outside of the doughnut shaped antenna. I'll need to test that.

If you wanted to go that route, EWS immobilizer "emulators" are available for under $20 (currently $9 on FleaBay). They replace the real EWS system and simply always report "Yup, the key matches, go ahead and start".

The emulators that I have seen don't work on the EWS 3.3, which is what I've seen on every E39, E46, and E53 that I've worked with. Since the DME and EWS communicate based on a preshared rolling code table, I doubt the emulator would work on anything newer than an e36. The e36 and earlier systems were more forgiving. I've seen some DME flashes that code out the EWS, but I'm not sure how the starter would get armed. If I wanted to bypass an EWS, I would probably relocate the transponder antenna behind the dash and glue a transponder to it.
Edit- the emulator works on the following:all e34, all e36, e38 to 05/1997, e39 to 09/1997, and Z3 up to MY1999. Those were before the rolling code EWS-DME system.

[joekitch]

added some of this data to the e39 wiki
http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php/BMW_E39#Keys
so it doesn't get buried in this thread forever

[sienayr]

I would guess the antenna got damaged, that's the little copper coil thing. That can lead to intermittent reception on the transponder. If you feel confident soldering, I can send you a spare antenna. I have extra parts I'll never use, just shoot me a PM. You cannot use more than one transponder at a time, I've tried it. I'm guessing that both transponders get activated and interfere with each other.

i thought that the copper coil thing was for charging the fob's battery? Is it the piece in the picture at the top here?:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=5834572

Does it do both? It does look damaged in mine, and rubbing that is how I managed to get it to work again so it does make sense that it would be the antenna. Just trying to sort out the various info that is out there, thanks much for your help.

[RocketSurgeon]

i thought that the copper coil thing was for charging the fob's battery? Is it the piece in the picture at the top here?:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=5834572

Does it do both? It does look damaged in mine, and rubbing that is how I managed to get it to work again so it does make sense that it would be the antenna. Just trying to sort out the various info that is out there, thanks much for your help.

That's the antenna, it does both. The transponder is the 8-pin chip marked 10030a, which also acts as a charge controller. The transponder is powered completely off the car through that inductive antenna. It uses it to receive and to transmit. Once the car has started, it continues to generate an inductive field, which the antenna receives as power to charge the battery. It works like a wireless charger for a phone or toothbrush.

I appreciate this info being put in that e39 guide. Thanks for sharing. I'll try to make additional guides for battery replacement, and board repair following botched battery replacement. Since the E38, E39, E46, and E53 all use the same diamond key, this info works for all of them.

[DoNmayor]

i paid $60 for a valet key and got a cheap plastic key. will a plastic key work with this?

[joekitch]

i paid $60 for a valet key and got a cheap plastic key. will a plastic key work with this?

by plastic key you mean this little guy (wallet key)? for the longest time i thought it didn't have a transponder but..well....
E39_Spare_Key_Transponder.jpg
it's part number 51218205444

this might actually be a better immobilizer chip source than the valet key


here's the other key types with part numbers

[djb2]

Ahh, I believe that RocketSurgeon is correct about the EWS bypass modules not working with later EWS 3 systems.

Removing the transponder from an all-plastic wallet key isn't especially easy. Whatever they used to stick it into place is really tough. Probably because the access is so vulnerable, they really didn't want the transponder to fall out. You may have to destroy the head and grind it free rather than risk breaking the encapsulation.

This thread refreshed my plan to add another e39 key as a backup.
I had recently ordered a diamond key on eBay. For slightly under $10 I got a complete kit: diamond key shell, keyless transmitter board powered by a replaceable coin cell, an ID44 transponder module and a logo sticker.

This same setup would have cost well over $20 just a few months ago, wasn't available at all a few years ago. The quality has improved as well. The printing on the back of the key is the same as the BMW keys, and the logo is resin covered like the originals. (Grrrr to spending over $5 for just a 11mm logo sticker, only to have it wear down to just shiny aluminum in a few months.)

The transponder was already stuck to the key shell with clear double-sided foam tape (probably a 3M VHB clone). I used to use contact cement, but after seeing this I'll switch to using VHB.

I used my Defu key cutting machine to cut the replacement. It works, but you have to be meticulous in the setup. I have to get the shims just right. One on the side of the original to correct a fixed offset, and one under each key to move the keys up in the too-deep clamp. Even then I need to make a test cut or two to set the depth to about 1.2mm, leaving just over 1mm in the center (I target 1.050mm center with a 1.200mm depth of cut with a typical 3.46mm thick key blank.)

After filing off burrs and wire brushing the key, I test in both orientations in all three locks. New keys always bind a bit, but they should eventually work. If not, they go into the bag of test keys for when I need to set up the machine again.

I then programmed the key with the AK90. I had read the content of my e39 EWS long ago, saved it to file, and cloned it onto a boneyard EWS. So programming the new key is trivial. I programmed it to be key #3. This is a factory key slot, with the original key long since lost. With the AK90 I can program the replacement to not use up another key slot, plus I don't even have to activate a new key slot (e.g. using INPA).

[justwant2camp]

posting to follow and try later. Looks great!

[djb2]

I'll followup: my duplicated keys continue to work well. I haven't had to change the coin cell in the transmitter, and they transmit considerably further than the factory original key or the dealer-ordered replacement that the previous owner bought.

I aligned my Defu cutting machine a few years ago so that it doesn't require shims for horizontal offset, but I still need to shim for the depth of cut. The machines have increased in price, and local cutting is more readily available, so avoid this if you can.

The AK90 has considerably decreased in price. It's main problem is the software is the same -- 'vintage' in a bad way.

I've made various types of keys, including the aftermarket flip ones. My favorite is basic plastic head type. Once you have enough unlock transmitter keys for daily use, you value smaller back-up keys. Not having a transmitter is a plus when you might lose it at the park.

[goz777]

hi Guys, im also about to embark on the key fixing process,(ive ordered an AK-90 as i have a factory key that just works when it wants to &amp; anthor one that works all the time but wont open the door except manually in the door lock &amp; one remaining key that does everything correctly)so im planning the best way to attack the job at hand(this thread has provided some great insight into the job so a big thanks for that.Down here in Australia getting a BMW key cut &amp; programed is like daylight robbery)..... so am i correct in believing that the transponder can only be programed once? can anyone list the process of using the AK-90 any tricks/dos&amp;donts, im now also curious about what djb2 has said about cloning his EWS &amp; would also like to do this. i think it would be a valuable spare to have(is this achieved with the AK-90) am i correct in believing the EWS is located on the driver side above the plastic covers above the pedals/bellow the steering column area?(im hoping this will be the same for me as my car is R/H/D-ive previously struck this problem when sorting out a canbus problem with the ABS, basically the scan tool wouldnt connect to the module, the junction for the can/kline connector for the ABS model is under the floor on the drivers side for the L/H/D cars whilst the connector for me once i found it was also on the L/H/S but that is passenger side for me,maybe the EWS may also be on the L/H/S) for cloning the EWS is it just a mater of find mine disassemble it &amp; find like for like or are they all the same? regardless of the cloning the EWS am i correct in believing it will still have to be found removed &amp; disassembled &amp; read by the AK-90 so that the new transponder can be programed &amp; registered to it to make the key work?unless i buy the valet key from the dealer &amp; take the transponder from it? i have recently found some dimond keys on one of my trips to the wrecking yard can the parts from any dimond key be it e46 ,x5 ect ect all be used with our E39s basically are the internals all inter=changable?(as i have no idea what these dimond keys are from although they do look the same as mine) thanks in advance for any valuable feedback on the subject.(my car is a 2001 530i vin CE64635)

[djb2]

The transponder can be reprogrammed, if you have the secret key that was programmed into it. But the AK90 software doesn't have that function, so you are pretty much stuck with one-time-programming.

I suggest ordering a key that has been pre-cut for you from a photograph. That is less expensive and less time consuming than searching for a local key cutting shop. If it works, order the rest of your keys from the same seller.

Buying a junkyard EWS to work with has limited value. The EWS you aren't using falls out of sync the first time you use other one. But it will let you learn how thoroughly you need to scrape the protective coating off of the chip pins, verify that the AK90 works and practice saving-then-loading the EEPROM contents.