Kill Switch to fix Parasitic Drain

[MiddleEastZ4]

Gents,


I'm thinking of installing a kill switch to my battery to address my parasitic drain (something is drawing down on my battery as the car is turned off) - something simple like this directly in the car battery: http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-M...04ES48438K9T3R


Does anyone have a better idea? Any ideas to run something to the cockpit of the car so I don't have to pop the trunk to use the kill switch every time?


Thanks all,


BMW Z4 2006 E85.


P.s. I connected a voltmeter which showed a 0.89 Amp draw when the car was off. I tried diagnosing the issue by pulling all fuses, none of which reduced the current draw. Therefore, I'm pretty dumbfounded as to what is causing the draw... any ideas?

[E36BMW3series]

I guess it will work. Personally I'd hook a battery tender to it before I'd do that. Loosing all of your settings and whatnot sounds a little less than desirable.

So back to diagnosing the problem:

Have you checked online for all potential problems TSBs, etc. Lastly, have you taken the car to the dealership? As much as I love to avoid the dealership if this is a truly isolated issue perhaps BMW NA and the dealership will work with you to keep this troubleshooting and repair reasonable. They are going to know the car better than anyone else.

[Kevlar]

A battery tender probably costs less than the installation of the kill switch and time spent reprogramming everything.

[BimmerBreaker]

I suggest fixing the actual underlying problem (the short or whatever is causing battery drain) instead of just fixing the symptoms. You looked at the "all" the fuses? This diagram shows fuses for your cars, color coded by whether they are switched (powered with ignition only) or always hot:

[MiddleEastZ4]

Lots of good suggestions. Thanks to all who have replied.


1) I have hooked up the multimeter and pulled fuses to find the source with no result. Apparently there is another fuse box in the engine bay, so that is my next step.


2) It is not the trunk light, I've set my phone on record and closed the trunk - the light goes off.


3) A battery tender/trickle charger I don't think would work because my car dies in about 24 hours. So unless the trickle charger is plugged into an outlet... which I suppose that could be a solution. Although I would imagine that a kill switch might be easier to manage.


4) No gap-tech installed.

5) I have changed my battery to ensure that it is not a battery issue. Also, I am sure it is a parasitic drain because I've hooked the battery up to a multimeter.


For all those people that have recommended I pull fuses, I have indeed pulled fuses. None of them dropped the reading on the multimeter. I have not however tried the fuses in the engine bay, and I will try that next.

[ezbmr]

I wish I had one. *Cough*Cough* FSU

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[hc1001]

I used to use this kill switch in the winter time because my car wouldnt start after a week of sitting when temps are very cold. The car starts up when sitting for 3 weeks when its warm. I now use a battery tender.

[ptarditi]

3 Biggest potential draws are Final Stage, Auxillary fan & rear window defroster

[Sansouci]

Do you detect that the car goes to sleep after the prescribed active period? What is the draw you have found when active and when asleep?