Should I buy m3 with 150k miles

[Marin2234]

Hello guys. This is my first post. I've been looking at a 2001 m3 with 150k miles on it and the guy is asking for 4k. Can I expect to drive this car for much longer and what should I look for in specific when I test drive it. Thanks in advance.

[lmtfi]

1. Get a PPI and KNOW what you are (potentially) buying.

2. This car is not a Honda. You cannot wait for something to break to maintain it. You have to constantly stay ahead of wear and aging.

3. Know that certain weaknesses of this design can be quite costly when they let go. And you will need several thou cash on-hand to deal with that. VANOS, subframe mounts, SMG pump....

4. A $4K M3? I bet you put $7-8K into it in the first year....maybe first 6 months. You might get in cheap - but you won't get out cheap.

4. Don't think you'll get by cheaply on consumables: Tires, quality brakes, spec oil etc etc. Again - its not a Honda.

[dworthy]

+1

Also go by the dealership to ensure all the Service actions/Recalls have been completed.

Minimum maintenance on a E-46 M-3 is typically 3-4k a year. The oil change alone will run 125 bucks for just the oil and filters, add labor and it is 250 bucks.

[carlosR]

I bought mine a few years ago with that kind of mileage. It's been a great car. Be sure to check out the number of owners and car history. If something doesn't seem right, don't listen to stories. Move on find another, there are plenty out there.
Good luck

[proximo]

Not sure where you get $3-4k per year for maintenance. Oil and a filter can be had for about $80 + shipping if you shop around. I've owned my '04 with 85k miles from the beginning and last year was by far the most I've had to spend for maintenance: $800 for new street tires, $800 for a valve adjustment, one ignition coil and plugs (done at an independent shop) and about $1400 for parts and fluids to do a complete, preventive, cooling system refresh (radiator, fan clutch, hoses, water pump, thermostat, belts, pulleys, coolant), transmission/differential fluid flush, and replace the alternator, all of which I did myself. The last time I spent anywhere near that much money was the Inspection II at 55k miles which ran $1600 at an independent shop. So, for 30k miles, or 4 years, I bought two sets of tires, a battery, a set of brake pads and did a yearly oil change. Before 55K? Probably three sets of tires, two, maybe three, sets of brake pads and a yearly oil change (4 years of which were covered under factory maintenance). Somewhere in there, the front control arm and rear trailing arm bushings have been replaced twice at an independent shop for about $600 each time. Somewhere around 50-60k miles, I replaced all four rotors with centric for about $400 in parts.

So, while last year was a big one for me and nearly $3k, averaged over the 12 years I've had the car I've spent around $1000/year on maintenance and much of my total maintenance cost was spent on sticky street tires (three sets of which were Michellin PS2 at about $1200 each installed) that don't last long if you drive them on the street and track them a few times a year, as I did.

[notMpowered]

At 4k, if it was going to last a year, I'd buy it and drive the piss out of it, then part it.

[dworthy]

Not sure where you get $3-4k per year for maintenance. Oil and a filter can be had for about $80 + shipping if you shop around. I've owned my '04 with 85k miles from the beginning and last year was by far the most I've had to spend for maintenance: $800 for new street tires, $800 for a valve adjustment, one ignition coil and plugs (done at an independent shop) and about $1400 for parts and fluids to do a complete, preventive, cooling system refresh (radiator, fan clutch, hoses, water pump, thermostat, belts, pulleys, coolant), transmission/differential fluid flush, and replace the alternator, all of which I did myself. The last time I spent anywhere near that much money was the Inspection II at 55k miles which ran $1600 at an independent shop. So, for 30k miles, or 4 years, I bought two sets of tires, a battery, a set of brake pads and did a yearly oil change. Before 55K? Probably three sets of tires, two, maybe three, sets of brake pads and a yearly oil change (4 years of which were covered under factory maintenance). Somewhere in there, the front control arm and rear trailing arm bushings have been replaced twice at an independent shop for about $600 each time. Somewhere around 50-60k miles, I replaced all four rotors with centric for about $400 in parts.

So, while last year was a big one for me and nearly $3k, averaged over the 12 years I've had the car I've spent around $1000/year on maintenance and much of my total maintenance cost was spent on sticky street tires (three sets of which were Michellin PS2 at about $1200 each installed) that don't last long if you drive them on the street and track them a few times a year, as I did.

Okay, we are talking the average person, who doesn't work on their car, or have the proper knowledge to fix said car.

Oil is Castrol 10W-60 anything else doesn't belong in that motor. So at 15 bucks a liter times 7 is 105, add the filter for 10 bucks and shipping for another 10 or so = 125 bucks.

If you are driving the average of 12k a year, you will be lucky to keep a set of tires under the car for more than that, so with the "proper" Michelin tires, they run 250-300 bucks each. The fronts will need to be replaced at the second set of rear tires.
The brakes will last longer than that, about every 2-3 years depending if you like the drive the car, and no Mrs. Daisy.
Other items like valve adjustments every Inspection-II or 60k Max is 600-900 bucks just to do that alone.
Then you have the cooling system, which is due at 8 yrs or 100k, and an overhaul on that is 1-2k if you buy quality parts.

So sure expecting 3-4k is a tad high, but if you budget for it and have a account just for that, you won't need to put things on a credit card to pay for auto repairs. However if that 150k car has been neglected, then you will need every dollar for the next couple of years.

I just hate it when plp come into the shop and complain about how much it cost's to maintain a BMW, gee this is not a Honda.

[72tpik5]

+1

Also go by the dealership to ensure all the Service actions/Recalls have been completed.

Minimum maintenance on a E-46 M-3 is typically 3-4k a year. The oil change alone will run 125 bucks for just the oil and filters, add labor and it is 250 bucks.

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E46 BMW M3 10W60 Lubro Moly Oil w/German Mann Oil Filter - 7 QUARTS





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Interchange:

Year	Make	Model	Trim	Engine	Notes
2008	BMW	Z4	Coupe 3.0si Coupe 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2008	BMW	Z4	M Coupe Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2008	BMW	Z4	M Roadster Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2008	BMW	Z4	Roadster 3.0i Convertible 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2008	BMW	Z4	Roadster 3.0si Convertible 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2007	BMW	Z4	Coupe 3.0si Coupe 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2007	BMW	Z4	M Coupe Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2007	BMW	Z4	M Roadster Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2007	BMW	Z4	Roadster 3.0i Convertible 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2007	BMW	Z4	Roadster 3.0si Convertible 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2006	BMW	M3	Base Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2006	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2006	BMW	Z4	Coupe 3.0si Coupe 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2006	BMW	Z4	M Coupe Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2006	BMW	Z4	M Roadster Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2006	BMW	Z4	Roadster 3.0i Convertible 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2006	BMW	Z4	Roadster 3.0si Convertible 2-Door	3.0L 2996CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2005	BMW	M3	Base Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2005	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2004	BMW	M3	Base Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2004	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2003	BMW	M3	Base Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2003	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2002	BMW	M3	Base Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2002	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2002	BMW	Z3	M Roadster Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2002	BMW	Z3	Roadster Convertible 2-Door
2001	BMW	M3	Base Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2001	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2001	BMW	Z3	M Roadster Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3246CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2001	BMW	Z3	Roadster Convertible 2-Door
2000	BMW	Z3	M Roadster Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
2000	BMW	Z3	Roadster Convertible 2-Door
1999	BMW	M3	Base Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1999	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1999	BMW	Z3	M Roadster Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1999	BMW	Z3	Roadster Convertible 2-Door
1998	BMW	M3	Base Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1998	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1998	BMW	M3	Base Sedan 4-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1998	BMW	Z3	M Roadster Convertible 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1998	BMW	Z3	Roadster Convertible 2-Door
1997	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1997	BMW	M3	Base Sedan 4-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1996	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.2L 3152CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1995	BMW	M3	Base Coupe 2-Door	3.0L 2990CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated
1995	BMW	M3	Lightweight Coupe 2-Door	3.0L 2990CC l6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated

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[dworthy]

Do not put that stuff in your car, if you plan on hitting the rev limiter at 8k. The reason why BMW Motorsport went with the Castrol 10W-60 is because you can burn up the bearing at higher revs with sub-standard oil.

But hey it is YOUR car, put what you want in it, I for one will not.

[72tpik5]

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[dworthy]

And 30 bucks or more for shipping, check where I live BTW.

[T-Rex]

Do not put that stuff in your car, if you plan on hitting the rev limiter at 8k. The reason why BMW Motorsport went with the Castrol 10W-60 is because you can burn up the bearing at higher revs with sub-standard oil.

But hey it is YOUR car, put what you want in it, I for one will not.

It's rare I drop in here anymore, but you should do some research before you go spouting nonsense. Liqui Moly is what M Gmbh uses. It is a substantially better oil than anything Castrol makes. Castrol (and now Shell) are the result of a marketing agreement with BMW corporate.

[dworthy]

It's rare I drop in here anymore, but you should do some research before you go spouting nonsense. Liqui Moly is what M Gmbh uses. It is a substantially better oil than anything Castrol makes. Castrol (and now Shell) are the result of a marketing agreement with BMW corporate.

Oh well I guess for once in a long time, I am incorrect about some oiling.

Yes the Castrol was out before the Lubro Moly oil, and they have advanced the oil since then so it is about the same. It has been 10 year since I last compared the two oils and back then they were lacking.

Castrol still has a better pour point, flash point, and better viscosity at 100 degrees C. Oh and I forgot about lower Ash content too. Humm that is about 4 out of 5 betters, the only thing Lubro Moly is better at is Viscosity index.... barely

Humm if you put the number down, they are still behind.

[turbospool]

I used moly on my m3; first time I did an oil change after using it the mechanic asked me when was the last time I changed my oil which had been 1yr and 8k miles before. He commented on it looked brand new I thought u were changing it really early...

[montescew]

So true, I could not have thought of a better statement! I can only imagine the history on this one.

- - - Updated - - -

At 4k, if it was going to last a year, I'd buy it and drive the piss out of it, then part it.

So true, I could not have thought of a better statement to summarize my thoughts on the car! I can only imagine the history on this example.