Can you tell me witch exact headers you used so I can get them also and work on them I wana go twin turbo already got tired of na lol you think smaller turbos better space ?
They are the foward turbo headers on ebay, I belive they are all the same. I found shorter versions of them like I got mine cut down but if you plan on using the cx racing elbows the vband flanges are different. Whatever version you get you would still need to cut the vband off the header and weld a cxracing one so it can work. I don't think you could find much smaller turbos borg warner s200s are pretty small. Engine bay is tight even for a single.
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Nice setup Stix...
I am planing to put my turbo low mounted...that way its away from everything else that matters.
Hi Runla, the s200 BW have a small compressor wheels...so it makes sense two are been used here. imo it will be better to go single at least this is my working plan...using something like a T4 76mm comp wheel and a 83mm turbine (this is for street only). Still figuring the housing as I will like to run an Ls6 cam.
I think Stix setup will be very, very streetable but scary ass hell; Stix curious as to why you chose two compressors and if using a lower turbo position was ever in the equation?
thanks
I went with the s251s because I wanted something fast spooling fun for the street. I already have a 5.3 gapped rings 317 heads with a borg s475 that's 98% done and was looking for a different set up. Original plan was to drop a 6.0 and maybe run some nitrous thru it but when the time came there was no 6.0s to be found. At one point I did consider mounting them lower or sideways opposed as to how they are now. That might have worked better but would have required alot of fab work. A single 76 should work nice! depending on how much power you want to make I would consider a .96ar and for faster spooling I would go even smaller than that
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can you get pics of how you got the trans mount to work, im having a hard time trying to make it work.
Awesome swap! Are you planning on putting covers on the hit side of the turbo to keep it from melting the headlight housing?
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That's the plan, should be ok with a turbo blanket.
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what I ended up doing to the trans mount from the cx racing kit so it could work with a 4l80
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Been working on it slowly next thing is finishing mounting the trans for good. Making the shifter bracket for it. Wastegates need to be mounted best place for them is going to have to be on the headers coming off to the side.
Cold side piping is done just need to order a bov and mount it up top
Motor as it sits now ls1 resaviour did not fit, flange was in the way. I bought a 90 fitting for saginaw type 2 pump another 90 3/8 npt and threaded the bottom of the bmw resaviour. Power steering high pressure line I used both the one form the car and the one that came off the truck engine, since i already had it. I bent truck line to fit behind the pump and with some an fittings I put both togheter will post some pics of that later.
Found a tank at the shop and it fit perfect for the washer fluid. Don't know what it came off
Pulled turbos off and sprayed them with some bbq paint. They were getting pretty rusty
Gas pedal was the biggest bitch. Found a solution that I think will work. First go around it failed. The bottom of the rod that I tried using off the bmw pedal snapped. The rod has metal running thru it except the bottom it's all plastic. I had to remove the smaller spring in the truck pedal because off the angle, it became hard to push and put alot of strain on that rod that was the reason for the first attempt failure. I still used the rod but know its sturdy and it feels good.
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An alternative for your pedal.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ight=e46+pedal
Shea Burns
I'd say to move to the Gen IV ECU, but you've already invested in the harness.
I just found this. http://www.lsenginediy.com/gm-gen-ii...uipment-guide/
Looks like the Gen II pedals have 3 sensors. One that increases and two that decrease voltage with pedal travel. The Gen IV pedal only have two sensor which both increase in voltage, but are offset in values.
Last edited by ssburns; 10-07-2016 at 08:05 AM.
Shea Burns
i ended up making a custom mount for my 4l80e out of 3/8 plate and some channel(welding it right now). the thickness might be overkill but im going to be doing drag racing with 3 kits of nitrous. so yeah there's going to be alot of stress on the driveline lol
I made the stock shifter removed plastic from these areas.
Drilled hole and attached b&m cable
80604.Stock one did not have enough travel.
I used b&m brackets for the cable to trans shifter 35498. I forgot to take pictures how the cable is routed, but it runs back towards the tail shaft and then foward.
Trans cooler up front mounted
After I mounted the trans good, the elbow for the turbos moved up more. The elbow for the radiator was touching so I got a 90 silicon coupler 1.25 to 1.5. Bov needs to be welded but that's where it will be mounted.
The most exciting part was hearing it fire up for the first time!!! I didn't take any videos but it's alive now. Not alot left to get it on the road. Taking it to a shop down the road in the next few weeks to get downpipes, wastegates mounted and the bov. After that I will be getting a driveshaft made and it should be moving around on its own.
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I bought similar headers for my single turbo setup. I am swapping them around and running them down and forward. I got high mount AC and Alt brackets and I am going the route unnatural went with the Volvo PS pump. what computer setup are you going with?
Front end got some love and it is now done. I will eventually get an m3 rep. front bumper but for now this will do.
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Do you know off hand what car those wheels came factory on? I like them. And they fit nice.
Mounted the rear calipers, after painting them and cleaned up the wheel wells. Didn't take any before pictures but it is a huge difference. I've been cranking the car up but it is not running right at idle. I'm thinking it is tune related now. I ordered a new pedal because I was getting a code for the app sensor, but even with the new pedal it did not change anything.(after deleting codes) I'm still getting code p1514. It seems to run good before about 1500 rpm with me giving it some throttle, revs up without a hiccup but once it drops below that it goes into limp mode and idles like a missfire without anymore throttle input.
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Googling P1514 it looks like it could be a problem in the wiring circuit or the throttle itself. I also saw something about the MAF numbers not matching the SD calcs causing the DTC. If your tune isn't finished this may be the case.
Shea Burns
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