seems they were interested in the stains underneath the back seats
i hope you were wearing gloves the whole time, otherwise you've probably got dat herp now
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Updates!
This is what the prolapse of the auto shifter looks like. There's sound deadening where the manual shifter arm's bushing is supposed to go into but look! BMW perforated it for me!
Probably one of the quicker engine pulls I've done. But that's mainly because half the engine was gone already. Kept all the AC stuff together because it actually works in this car. And has a charge.
Here's where I'm sad. The self adjusting pressure plate can't be reused and this flywheel looks like this. It's better than it looks. There's some residue on it from something but I only need it to hold for a year or two. Might try a scuffing pad to see what I can get off. A new flywheel is like $300-400.
Heavy as crap. Why is there 3 mufflers bmw? Why you put cats in headers?
Drive shafts! Shorter one obviously auto. The trans cross member that looks more like a "C" is to the auto trans. I always wish things like these would be similar or close but apparently not.
Since I have no garage, I put the new engine in the bay just to keep it out of the rain and mud and squirrels. Until I can figure out the clutch situation anyway.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Instead of pictures, how about a video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rS5PQcBd44s
Seriously Constructive criticism welcome. Wasn't in a huge mood to chat and talk while working.
The window was smashed in by a tree that had been struck by lightning so I guess that's not really THAT bad considering.
I wasn't planning on getting much done on the car for months due to the clutch issue. But Competition Clutch was nice enough to help me by testing out their new E46 kit. Installation was pretty smooth minus a part where I didn't know which was the correct clutch orientation.
Basically, from here, I just need to finish the manual bits. Bolt down the driveline and exhaust. And uh... all that wiring and hooking stuff up. The AC in this sucker is still good so I didn't disconnect any of it with the 2.8 swap.
Anyone know a guide on all the damn vacuum lines that fly all over the bay? I see one for the EGR system, one that goes to the FPR under the car. Then there's the other one that just dangle near the FPR. I didn't remove the intake mani or anything under it to avoid as much fuss as possible. Trying to keep this swap quick and simple as it's still a place holder for the LS.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Comp Clutches rule, we use them in almost every build at the shop.
I haven't driven on it yet but the install went really easily. Things lined up. Didn't require any fuss. I've done Sach clutches before and they tend to fit REALLY tight or just off by a little bit. The Competition clutch went in like freaking butter.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
We regularly use Exedy, Clutchmaster, and Comps. (Subaru shop) The Comp by far has the best pedal feel, and we've taken them to 450 awhp with no issues. I hate the Clutchmaster pedal feel.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BCd4Pc8TARU/
Only had an hour or two on the car today. Adulting and my obsession with lifting weights takes a lot of my time. Thankfully, I got the pedals and shifter in. Transmission is bolted down. W00t!
The E46 is so much easier to work on than E36s and E46s. The clutch system has these push in and clip lines. Sucks if you lose the clips but things don't require bolting down and soaking in PB blaster for a day. Hydraulics are all in. But it turns out, I threw out the box with the clutch pin I was missing That and I broke the gas pedal lever. Thanks for making that solid plastic bmw.
Todo list:
Hook up exhaust/drive shaft
Bolt back down passenger control arm
Cooling lines
fuel lines
wiring
auto to manual wiring
Plug in things like vac lines
Fix gas pedal/clutch pedal
Front end bits (rad/ac/bumper)
Replace front AND rear windows <_<
Profit?
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
So things Are mostly together. I have a few questions and hope someone here can help while I go off and google.
First, What is the part number for this? It's a vacuum line and this bit is a 90 degree elbow right in front of that heater core solenoid thingy.
Otherwise, I've come to a complete stop on wiring. I have the wiring harness somewhere but I don't think the regular auto to manual wiring will work for me. I no longer have the blue DME for the automatic so there's just this one connector dangling. My master cylinder does not have a plug in it. Instead, I seem to have two switches. One on top and one on the bottom. What? Why? What do I do?
- - - Updated - - -
pix since embedding doesn't seem to work.
http://i.imgur.com/vAPbuhl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ec9Ohdh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eDu6rp8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Nd7dHHE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/v4buSJy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1RrLBb6.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hsyvrlx.jpg
Last edited by protomor; 03-05-2016 at 07:53 PM.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Ok so I think I figured out the wiring. The switch that gets hit on the end of the clutch stroke is the one that goes to the cruise control. So I don't think I need to do anything. The top switch (no connectors on the master itself) goes to the ECU.
The brown wire on the switch (brown purple IIRC) goes to a grounding block taped up under the steering column. The power (Purple yellow) I just spliced in with the same colored wire that feeds the brake light switch.
The DME box has two connectors that come from the cabin. One blue one for the automatic trans ECU and a black one that goes to the DME. BMW is nice enough to make that connector come apart and really easy for you to just pull pins (I found this out too late though). So I found the missing pin in the auto connector and put in the pin that I pulled from the donor manual body harness.
I'm so totally not sure if I need to do anything with that one auto connector. I hope this will at least get the car running so I can scan codes. The only problem is that the battery is locked in the trunk of the 1/4 cut in my back yard. Anyone know if there's an emergency trunk release?
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I got into the trunk through the tail light and pulled the release cord. w00t.
The car started! Runs great! I just lost the radiator drain plug and pelican swears the gas pedal lever is NLA.
Home stretch!
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Well I got PASoft installed after a fight with drivers in windows 10 (gotta manually find the driver from the list instead of just browse for it). Also took me a while to realize that early E46s 100% DO have the 20 whatever pin connector under the hood and the OBD2 interface won't work.
Anywho, this is what it gave me:
And here is the hilarious print out. I'm actually amused or in disbelief that the DMEs were both within 1km of each other. The simple fix at this point looks like just swapping out the LCM and cluster with the donor car and most things will go away. Also looks like the rear driver's wheel speed sensor is on the fritz. Sadly, I've never successfully pulled one of those out.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BMW Scanner v1.4.0.9 (19.09.2011) - P.A.Soft, 2011 HW: V144Bn9 Time: 4:45:52 PM 3/20/2016
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ZCS coding : /-------- IKE --------\ /-------- EWS --------\
Chassis : E46 E46
Model : 323i 328i
Type key : AR33 AM53
Engine : M52B25 M52B28
Gearbox : Automatic Automatic
VIN : JM01284 WBAAM5342YKG17873
ZCS GM : 69330000-4 66530000-7
ZCS SA : 00000A0007A8D408-0 00002A0807AC1400-A
ZCS VN : 0000600620-X 00004896FB-4
ZCS coding : /-------- IKE --------\ /-------- EWS --------\
Chassis : E46 E46
Model : 323i 328i
Type key : AR33 AM53
Engine : M52B25 M52B28
Gearbox : Automatic Automatic
VIN : JM01284 WBAAM5342YKG17873
ZCS GM : 69330000-4 66530000-7
ZCS SA : 00000A0007A8D408-0 00002A0807AC1400-A
ZCS VN : 0000600620-X 00004896FB-4
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit BMWTNR HW SW-FSW CI DI BI/VI Date Odometer VIN ADFG Algorithm
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EWS -> 6.905.670 03 08 81 81 07 34/99 250855 km WBAAM5342YKG17873 FFFFFF EWS3
DME -> 7.500.255 15 E3 00 C0 60 36/99 - WBAAM5342YKG17873 FFFFFF MS42.0 M52 (EWS3)
ABS -> 6.753.598 02 36 09 70 60 23/20 - - 001284 DSC E46
LEW -> 1.094.142 06 02 01 01 60 08/00 - JM01284 001284 LWS5
IKE -> 6.902.371 09 16 04 52 10 14/00 250854 km JM01284 020000 93S66 - E46 (E46)
LCM -> 6.901.431 08 13 28 20 00 12/00 250800 km JM01284 000000 HC11P2 - 4 (LSZ)
SHD -> 3.861.939 05 31 01 02 78 11/00 - - 111284 SHD E46/R40
# SCAN START
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit BMWTNR HW SW-FSW CI DI BI/VI Date Odometer VIN ADFG Algorithm
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 7.500.255 15 E3 00 C0 60 36/99 - WBAAM5342YKG17873 FFFFFF MS42.0 M52 (EWS3)
EWS -> 6.905.670 03 08 81 81 07 34/99 250855 km WBAAM5342YKG17873 FFFFFF EWS3
ABS -> 6.753.598 02 36 09 70 60 23/20 - - 001284 DSC E46
LEW -> 1.094.142 06 02 01 01 60 08/00 - JM01284 001284 LWS5
A/C -> 6.902.440 21 05 03 32 0A 15/00 - - 001284 IHKA E46 PU98/PU99
SRS -> 6.905.491 01 05 31 08 00 13/00 - JM01284 000000 MRS3 E46
IKE -> 6.902.371 09 16 04 52 10 14/00 250854 km JM01284 020000 93S66 - E46 (E46)
LCM -> 6.901.431 08 13 28 20 00 12/00 250800 km JM01284 000000 HC11P2 - 4 (LSZ)
ZKE -> 8.385.544 11 12 01 40 08 14/00 - - 401284 ZKE5
MFL -> 0.000.000 01 07 00 03 78 00/00 - - - MFL2
RAD -> 6.909.882 32 11 01 11 08 15/00 - - 001284 Radio ZIS/BM/MIR
SZM -> 8.379.751 01 01 20 20 78 02/00 - - - SZM E46
SHD -> 3.861.939 05 31 01 02 78 11/00 - - 111284 SHD E46/R40
SPMFT -> 8.386.427 02 01 01 01 01 13/00 - - 001284 SPM E46 Driver
SPMBT -> 8.386.427 02 01 01 01 01 13/00 - - 001284 SPM E46 Passenger
SMF -> 8.263.133 07 0B 01 01 01 01/00 - - 001284 SM 3-channel E46/E85
EKP -> - - - - - - - - - - -
# USER INFO FIELDS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit Date VIN Odometer Assembly Software Service Dealer Tester Program ver.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 21.09.99 WBAAM5342YKG17873 0 km 7.505.515 7.505.516 7.505.552 000017 00000 -
# ERRORS IN UNITS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit BMWTNR HW SW-FSW ERRORS / SHADOW-MEMORY
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 7.500.255 15 E3 1 error / 2 errors
EWS -> 6.905.670 03 08 8 errors
ABS -> 6.753.598 02 36 3 errors
LEW -> 1.094.142 06 02 2 errors
A/C -> 6.902.440 21 05 no errors
SRS -> 6.905.491 01 05 1 error
IKE -> 6.902.371 09 16 5 errors
LCM -> 6.901.431 08 13 no errors / 7 errors
ZKE -> 8.385.544 11 12 3 errors / 8 errors
MFL -> 0.000.000 01 07 no data
RAD -> 6.909.882 32 11 no errors
SZM -> 8.379.751 01 01 no errors / 2 errors
SHD -> 3.861.939 05 31 no errors
SPMFT -> 8.386.427 02 01 2 errors / 3 errors
SPMBT -> 8.386.427 02 01 2 errors / 4 errors
SMF -> 8.263.133 07 0B no errors
EKP -> <found> unknown
# ERRORS DETAILS - DTC(hex)/PARAM(hex)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 7D/A1 - Activation, electric fan
Shadow-memory:
7D/A1 - Activation, electric fan
7F/02 - Activation, solenoid valve, suction-jet pump
EWS -> 33/3F - Toleration of changing code increased, key 3
13/01 - Toleration of changing code increased, key 1
0F/3F - Power on reset
43/3F - Toleration of changing code increased, key 4
42/02 - Wrong changing code, key 4
41/04 - Wrong password, key 4
40/03 - Wrong identification, key 4
0E/01 - DME changing code XOR-error
ABS -> 78/01 - Vehicle power > 18 Volt
96/FF - CAN timeout EGS
31/FF - Wheel speed sensor rear left trigger signal
LEW -> 09/67 - No CAN message (ASC)
01/05 - Terminal 30 defective
SRS -> 11/A0 - Power supply
IKE -> 11/84 - Thermal oil-level sensor
D7/81 - Tank sensor 2
FB/C4 - No CAN message (EGS1)
87/82 - Body bus (K-bus)
BF/88 - Internal fault, EEPROM checksum, coding incorrect/incomplete
LCM -> Shadow-memory:
34/01 - Brake light, left
36/22 - Turn indicator, front left
37/22 - Turn indicator, front right
39/24 - High beam, left
3A/22 - High beam, right
41/3F - Low beam, right
42/1D - Low beam, left
ZKE -> 30/01 - K-bus or Control unit for Instrument cluster basis (Gateway)
33/01 - Wiper: is blocking or Reset contact
45/01 - Central locking system: Lock contact Driver's door
Shadow-memory:
81/3F - Alarm memory: Door contact Driver's door
8A/3F - Alarm memory: Radio interior protection
8F/01 - Alarm memory: Panic modus was activated
88/04 - Alarm memory: Hood
84/01 - Alarm memory: Door contact Passenger side behind
90/3F - Battery Voltage: Open circuit
89/24 - Alarm memory: Tilt alarm sensor
8D/01 - Alarm memory: Lock contact Driver's door
SZM -> Shadow-memory:
05/1D - Seat heating Lower voltage recognised
06/1E - Sun rollo Lower voltage recognised
SPMFT -> 04/01 - Mirror-moving-switch, interruption
09/01 - Mirror drive vertical interruption
Shadow-memory:
00/54 - Low voltage ( U < 8,5 Volt )
01/C4 - High voltage ( U > 16 Volt )
02/9A - Low voltage mirror-heating
SPMBT -> 07/3F - Mirror drive, potentiometer vertical
08/3F - Mirror drive, potentiometer horizontal
Shadow-memory:
00/50 - Low voltage ( U < 8,5 Volt )
01/82 - High voltage ( U > 16 Volt )
02/B5 - Low voltage mirror-heating
04/0D - Mirror drive, potentiometer plausibility
# SCAN END
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Well nothing ever goes 100% smooth for me. The car ran great to the gas station. And then almost died on the way home. Stumbled and I ran a stop sign just so I wasn't going up hill when it died.
Codes were/are:
P0306 - cyl 6 misfire
P0141 - O2 heater? Which one?
P0101 - MAF or maybe vac leak
P1510 - ICV not happy.
Well it turns out, I broke the little elbow connection for the FPR to the intake a while ago and forgot that I couldn't find a part number for it on realoem. If anyone can find it for me, please please send it! So I just jurry rigged it with a hose clamp and a fuel line I wasn't using. I think the MAF got coolant on it since I wasn't running a filter for a little bit so I swapped it out with the one from the 323 engine. Unfortunately, the O2 sensors went with the old car so I don't have those. I went back out and the car ran much better. Sadly, I won't pass safety/emissions with that last code so I'll have to pick up some O2 sensors. Which one is bank 1? "Activation, ox.-sensor heater after cat.conv., bank 1" is the code I'm getting from pasoft.
Home stretch!
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
will an e36 maf work?
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
They look pretty different. Don't worry, I had spare from the other motor. I just need to replace that O2 meow.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Capture.jpg
No money for mods or anything since I'm selling my house and the baby comes in 2 months. (holy crap). But I found some 18x9 M3 rears on the CL for $100. Couldn't pass it up. They do have chips and what not but these are going to be draft spares.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
1 Month left for baby!
I figure I'd brain dump and maybe ask some questions here since the forums are a crap shoot of misinformation and me reading through 18 threads and getting no where.
The E46 non M rear won't work after seeing Justin's issues. So I've been hunting for M3 bits for the cheaps.
I'd LOVE to do this swap before the LS goes in but no off the shelf drive shaft combo seems to work for the 5 speed. I might be able to take the back half of an M3 drive shaft and mate it with my non M but I haven't seen anyone do it and report back.
Otherwise, the parts list goes:
trailing arms (and brake bits/ebrake bits)
subframe
axles
diff
Sway bar if I wanna get fancy
Right?
I'd like to upgrade the front too but the factory control arms have larger ball joints on M3s. Which might or might not be an issue since I'll be running Jalopi's angle kit. I just need to make sure his angle kit will bolt to the M3 knuckle as I'll be using his angle blocks and control arms.
After that, I need to find an X5 and transfer the ring/pinion to my M3 diff to get a 3.91 ratio.
Geez this is complicated. Opinions? Did I forget or misread something?
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
There's an E46 M3 complete rear subframe on ebay for $750 in New Jersey I think. It say's he wont ship but he told me would via PM. That's the only one I've seen come up for under a G.
I was under the impression that all you needed driveshaft wise to switch to an M rear diff was to swap the diff flange from the non M on to the M diff. PM Jeepster, he has an M3 rear in his E46 wagon.
750 for the whole rear? The best I found was $1300! I'm hopefully picking up axles/trailing arms/brake bits for $300 today. I'll have to find the diff and subframe another time.
The diff flange swap would make sense. But the stock diff is a 188 and the M diff is a 210 so I'm not sure if that's even possible. But even then, you'd have to remove the pinion and redo the bearing/crush sleeve. That's a lot of work and tools I don't have.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-2006-BM...3D331940184187
I was going to buy it but I don't want to run an LSD.
Jeez. That's new york territory. <_< I'm actually REALLY surprised no one has picked this up yet.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Well for a good price I just picked up the following from an M3 part out:
M3 brake calipers all around
Front knuckles
Brake booster
Brake master
Axles (with diff axle stubs for some reason)
Trailing arms
Random E39 wheel that has something rattling in the tire.
I didn't have a full size spare for the wagon so the tire made sense. So really, all I need is a diff and subframe for the full swap. I wonder if I can find just the rear half of an M3 drive shaft to mate to the front half of my 5 speed one. Or if that would even work. Or I could just sit on all of it and do it all at the same time as the LS swap.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Anyone know if the E46 M3 diff case can be interchanged with any other one? I just need the case since I'm gonna get a separate ring gear and inner diff unit. I figure I can get the face plate off ebay.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I'm starting to really hate BMW for all their rear diff changing.
Yea the X5 is a K series 210 so the bits don't port. I'm basically planning on getting the case and faceplate from an M3, getting an aftermarket diff, and going to BMW for a fresh ring/pinion gear. Seems to be the simplest method of getting what I want.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I thought the E32 750i was the same case/attachment points as the E46 M3 diff, but I could be wrong. They definitely are both 210mm.
Edit: Just realized you are trying to transfer the ring/pinion into a large case diff, which won't work. You'll need the larger ring/pinion from the 210mm case. That's what the 210mm is, the ring gear diameter. The E46 M3 diff is 3.46 or 3.64, I can't remember. The E32 750i is a 210mm case /gears also, but it's a 3.15. If you're after a higher ratio, the stock E46 M3 diff is probably your closest bet. I think you can also get aftermarket ratio ring/pinion sets from diffsonline or other diff builders and just swap it out yourself.
Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 09-29-2016 at 11:54 PM.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
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