Hey guys, first I want to thank you for checking out part 1 The Short Block. I appreciated all your comments.
Here's part 2 on the cylinder head, it's not the most ground breaking article but I still wanted to post it here for the follow up.
Just like part 1 feel free to comment, good or bad, your thoughts.
Disclaimer: Yes I work for MotoIQ but as I said in my part 1 post, I don't get paid on pageviews so I'm not trying to spam you guys. Thanks!
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...nder-Head.aspx
98 BMW 323is
S52 Swapped
Nice read. I just finished my 98 m3 head refresh a month ago and have been delayed in posting as I just relocated across country. I'm pretty surprised/ impressed how similar of a direction we both took on our own terms.. I'm running the same supertech valves but wasn't aware of some of the features. Thanks.
I do have one question though. What compression will you be running because I thought it was stock ratio with future plans for boost (the article says high comp)..?
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Who did your head reassembly/ valvejob? Guessing long block assembly is through a different shop?
Last edited by hide1; 06-30-2015 at 07:39 PM.
Awesome build and sick parts. To me, it seems like a lot of wasted potential though. Completely overbuilt for 230 whp. Not hating, itll definitely be a sweet and bullet proof motor, but it seems like over building just for the sake of over building. As an s52 completely rebuilt with OE spec parts would be just as reliable at 230 whp and cost 1/2 as much.
The build, while really neat.. seems confused. High compression, fully built motor but 230 whp goal? On a budget, but carillo rods/11.3 pistons/supertech valves & springs? Dual valve springs but OE cams?
Again, awesome build and nice to see.. Just confusing lol
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Hide; Where did you move to? And in part 1 he said 11.3:1 comp and NO plans of boost.
230 rwhp is no problem with a much smaller investment. Hope OP has more planned. I am making 600 rwhp on stock valves and springs. Over 400 rwhp since 2007 on stock springs and valves.
I don't know a lot about the retainer locks, but I always thought the OE triple groove were superior to single groove locks. There's a local E36 track car guy that had all the fancy Supertech mumbo jumbo only to have a couple valves drop at full tilt. The tech who repaired it said they went back to fresh OEM and won't go back to Supertech.
Tip: any tacky assembly lube will hold the lifters in while you flip the trays over. Very bad advice to suggest people just quickly throw it over. Before I figured out the assembly lube trick I used a long piece of tape that I would hold tightly at either end and drop the tray down. There's also the magnet trick that I've never had enough magnets on hand to do.
Last edited by Braymond141; 06-30-2015 at 10:24 PM.
He hasn't dyno'd it yet so I'm sure he's just making a humble/ conservative/ flame suit safe assessment to avoid the nay-say crusaders. His car WILL make way more than 230 whp, mostly because of the increased compression. The stickied dyno thread in this forum has graphs upon graphs of stock (internal) cars putting down 230+. I was hitting over 240 nothing but headers and cheap tune on hub dyno. Thanks for clarifying the build. Foot in mouth moment. I have been reading too much and have other bmw crosstalk on my brain. I'm in CO now. So over CA.
He said they are purposely leaving room for additional editorial = ie bigger bumpsticks, and solid lifters, etc.
Contrary to your instinct single groove is better despite thinking there is some redundancy in more grooves. All other hi performance engines and $50k+ race motors will use single groove valve lock design. BMW is the only one I know of who uses three. Sources for this are long time engine builders 25+ years building/ racing bmw engines.
Agreed on flipping the cam ledges.. thought right away Im gonna have to see that one. I envision mixed up lifter hell with that procedure unless...he rotated the stand and had the head and cam trays at 90 degrees..
Earth magnets is definitely the way to go. $5 at home depot. You will need something steel for them to hold; I had a friend bring home some welding rod from his shop. Light work right there..and I've heard some crazy procedures like using silicon to hold them them wiping it off. Or suction cups. Too much work.
Last edited by hide1; 07-01-2015 at 04:30 PM.
For the lifters I just used a piece of welding rod. Very nice build, glad to see it coming along!
Could also be that stock parts cost as much as aftermarket and have some inferiorities like friction welded two piece valves that are not as strong as one piece valves. I have not priced the parts out recently.
To answer a few questions (If I miss anyone's questions sorry)
1. The plan is no boost and we're running an 11.3:1 compression
2. We went with aftermarket parts instead of stock since we could... plus the internals of the used S52 I got were a little on the sketchy side.
3. Stock cams due mainly to budget, I'll be upgrading during the first half of 2016 to either schrick cams or doing the full solid lifter/solid cam, just haven't decided yet.
4. The head was sent out for assembly, it was sent through Pure Performance who is the engine builder and installer but not the head assembler. He asked that we don't give out who does his machine work, race shops have to keep their secrets.
5. Daniel at Pure Performance just quickly flips the lifter tray on, he's done it enough times he can do it no prob with any help. To each his own right?
6. The 230-240whp goal is just in this stage. The final goal I want is 275whp give or take a few, but that's after cams, injectors, headers, hfm etc...
7. pbonsalb - I'm assuming your 600whp is FI? I get that the stock components can handle the power but again due to the stock S52 I got being a little sketchy we needed to get new stuff anyways. Since FI was never in the picture we went with compression for a few extra hp.
Thanks for checking it out guys! It is a learning process and I appreciate all your comments.
98 BMW 323is
S52 Swapped
Yes, the stock parts are fine for double or more than stock horsepower with forced induction and an rpm limit of 7000-7200. A high performance naturally aspirated build may actually need upgraded valvetrain because it will need more rpm to make power. But in order to run more than 7000-7200, you need an upgraded crank damper as well.
Bingo. In this case the replacements are superior quality and half the price. BMW intake is ~$40, exhaust ~$60 (those numbers double if you need oversize).
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Hey that's usually my argument! You know me by now to know I wouldn't argue that right? I said hi performance engines AND high $ race motors. That would be manufacturer produced turn key motors in production vehicles that are considered 'hi performance'. Only manufacturer I know of that has a similar design to BMW in this aspect is vw. The vast majority use single including production motors that rev thousands of rpm higher than the s52 stock.
I merely offered the race motor as a comparison where a single groove design is trused where tens of thousands of dollars are at stake. One motor I can think of off the top of my head has seen several years of use.
I don't want to split hairs here as we all know the retainers and keepers in our motors have not been a source of failure since 95 and I have no interest in what anyone chooses/ trusts/ believes to be best inside their motor. I'm only sharing what I know. .
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