Nitrous Express

[MN E34]

So today I ordered my new NX kit for the 540 and looking into a good clutch to hold the power.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/20420-...lb-bottle.html

That's the system I got I've heard good things about the early 4.4l and Nitrous so thought I would give it a go. Over the winter plan to make custom headers and intake manifold for the car as well as getting the rest of the M5 swap done. I would also like to make a custom tank for the C16 when spraying I want the car to make power but be safe at the same time. I know with other setups I've had in the past just running 93 can some times make it go lean and that's not what you want at all. Also the jetting for the 150 or 250 shot haven't made up my mind just yet starting small and working my way up here will be my best bet I guess. I plan to wrap everything up before SOWO 2015 and make it down there for some fun.

[hsvturbo]

Sound fun. With a 250 shot, I would assume ignition timing would have to be retarded. How do you tune for this?

[MN E34]

You can get away with stock timing if you run C16 and not 91 or 93 with the shot. But I've got good places to start with see how big we can go before any custom tuning is needed.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

If you're spraying c16 or any other high octane fuel, you might not have to worry about timing on a 150 shot. Of course, you don't want to run a tune/"chip" that bumps up the timing.
I'd definitely want a wideband.

Other things to consider: one step colder plugs for anything over ~75hp (might even want 2 steps colder with a 250 shot); poor atomization with a single fogger/jet; excessive cylinder heat from poor distribution; etc.


If I was going to push the limit on a single fogger, I'd invest in a proper EGT setup to verify the distribution of the nitrous & fuel.

It's been a while that I've read about nitrous setups. But, I do remember years ago when it was real popular in the s54 world. Most guys found out that ~125 shot was the most that could run a single fogger setup. Even then, the s54 manifold proved to not flow very well. Many people moved to methanol/water injection to control heat and/or mounted a separate tank with a high octane fuel.

A nitrous system is very effective and safe when setup properly with fail-safes. Of course, the sky is the limit with a DP (direct-port) setup.

[hsvturbo]

Where are you planning on putting the c16 tank and why not buy a fuel cell and be done with it.

[MN E34]

Where are you planning on putting the c16 tank and why not buy a fuel cell and be done with it.

In 6 disc changer spot make it hidden. Its a "Stock car"

[hsvturbo]

Sneeky Pete.

[MN E34]

If you're spraying c16 or any other high octane fuel, you might not have to worry about timing on a 150 shot. Of course, you don't want to run a tune/"chip" that bumps up the timing.
I'd definitely want a wideband.

Other things to consider: one step colder plugs for anything over ~75hp (might even want 2 steps colder with a 250 shot); poor atomization with a single fogger/jet; excessive cylinder heat from poor distribution; etc.


If I was going to push the limit on a single fogger, I'd invest in a proper EGT setup to verify the distribution of the nitrous & fuel.

It's been a while that I've read about nitrous setups. But, I do remember years ago when it was real popular in the s54 world. Most guys found out that ~125 shot was the most that could run a single fogger setup. Even then, the s54 manifold proved to not flow very well. Many people moved to methanol/water injection to control heat and/or mounted a separate tank with a high octane fuel.

A nitrous system is very effective and safe when setup properly with fail-safes. Of course, the sky is the limit with a DP (direct-port) setup.

I have thought about all of this. I have a few ideas kicking around as to what I want the final product to be. Thinking about having a 2 piece intake plenum and tucking a spray bar up top on a V shaped piece of stock to kick it down at the right angle to ensure proper distribution to each cylinder. But I tend to over think some things I know that's kinda reinvent the wheel but I'd like for this to showcase my skills as a builder/craftsman.

Thank you for your input tho I do appreciate someone who knows what there talking about.

[litemup]

If you run race gas then you won't need to pull timing on a 150 shot. Wideband is absolutely necessary for tuning the fuel jets, and you should really do yourself and your motor a favor and spend the money on a direct port setup.

[Harvington]

Eden Prairie?! Say what?!

sounds like a great project. Let's party in the spring! Let me know if you want a hand with anything.

[dburt86]

rather then c16, what about running methanol? Not only would it resist knock, it would cool also. Just a thought.

Every experience ive had with spray has always boiled down to 1 factor, its never consistent. Its super super effective, but never consistent. The only solution ive seen is a system that i cant remember the name of that would apply Nitrogen to the top of your N2o tank so you maintain a certain bottle pressure. But it was like 400$

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

Where are you planning on putting the c16 tank and why not buy a fuel cell and be done with it.

Agreed. IIRC, nitrous express has a very cost effective fuel cell setup available. Maybe it's WON. I forget.

I have thought about all of this. I have a few ideas kicking around as to what I want the final product to be. Thinking about having a 2 piece intake plenum and tucking a spray bar up top on a V shaped piece of stock to kick it down at the right angle to ensure proper distribution to each cylinder. But I tend to over think some things I know that's kinda reinvent the wheel but I'd like for this to showcase my skills as a builder/craftsman. Thank you for your input tho I do appreciate someone who knows what there talking about.

Excellent! Sounds interesting to say the least.

[MN E34]

If you run race gas then you won't need to pull timing on a 150 shot. Wideband is absolutely necessary for tuning the fuel jets, and you should really do yourself and your motor a favor and spend the money on a direct port setup.

I like the DP but I really would like to try my own thing first I have a extra motor I picked up for cheep. I know i need a wide band I have one at home sitting on the tool box.

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Eden Prairie?! Say what?!

sounds like a great project. Let's party in the spring! Let me know if you want a hand with anything.

Will do is that your Audi?

- - - Updated - - -

rather then c16, what about running methanol? Not only would it resist knock, it would cool also. Just a thought.

Every experience ive had with spray has always boiled down to 1 factor, its never consistent. Its super super effective, but never consistent. The only solution ive seen is a system that i cant remember the name of that would apply Nitrogen to the top of your N2o tank so you maintain a certain bottle pressure. But it was like 400$

Ive used meth in the past it works but I'm a bit shy to try new fuel source. With meth I know a lot of guys use it but I dont know the first thing about it when spraying. I loved it on my Turbo cars tho.

- - - Updated - - -

Agreed. IIRC, nitrous express has a very cost effective fuel cell setup available. Maybe it's WON. I forget.


Excellent! Sounds interesting to say the least.

Ive looked at the one NX has for sale as a kit if it fits I might just use that but its only 1 GAL .

[Tristo]

Ive used meth in the past it works but I'm a bit shy to try new fuel source. With meth I know a lot of guys use it but I dont know the first thing about it when spraying. I loved it on my Turbo cars tho.

Use meth as the secondary fuel source when spraying. You won't have to mess with the factory fuel system, nor tap into it. Just jet the "fuel" portion of your wet shot double what it'd be for gasoline and taper down depending on your afrs. I wanted to do that before I went S/C.

[Rob43]

OP, I have a few thoughts:

First, whenever you get your system initially working: Start with the smallest jetting you can to verify operation.

Based on what you've already said about possible power, start by plumbing everything for DP now. A single wet nozzle above 100 whp is Not a good thing because of the distribution problems. Forget about tapping the fuel rail for what you want, buy into a 1 gallon fuel cell with a dedicated EFI fuel pump & regulator (return style) running at about 50 psi. Run your Bimmer on 93 octane, run your dedicated nitrous fuel cell on C23 or N02, and don't use any type of tuning software/chip. Plugs below 125 whp = 1 step colder, above 125 whp = 2 steps colder, gap them somewhere between .026-.029 to avoid spark blowout. DP AFR numbers between 11.9 to 12.5 work well, but even though everyone tells you that these afr numbers are the "Holy Grail", they are not; PLUG READING IS. Start reading up on how to properly read nitrous spark plugs now, it's an art that takes a bit of time to learn & understand. Maybe I missed it but you need to use a Digital Progressive Nitrous Controller at the higher HP levels to maintain safety, the better units* will also help with activation "Lean Spikes" which of course are a bad thing. Oh, a little bit of bad news, I seem to remember that the NX Proton module (Solenoids) only really work up to about 160-175 whp. You might want to call Mike at NX to verify this.



Good luck,
Rob43


* I have a Brand New WON (Wizards Of Nitrous) Maximiser sitting in the box.

[MN E34]

OP, I have a few thoughts:

First, whenever you get your system initially working: Start with the smallest jetting you can to verify operation.

Based on what you've already said about possible power, start by plumbing everything for DP now. A single wet nozzle above 100 whp is Not a good thing because of the distribution problems. Forget about tapping the fuel rail for what you want, buy into a 1 gallon fuel cell with a dedicated EFI fuel pump & regulator (return style) running at about 50 psi. Run your Bimmer on 93 octane, run your dedicated nitrous fuel cell on C23 or N02, and don't use any type of tuning software/chip. Plugs below 125 whp = 1 step colder, above 125 whp = 2 steps colder, gap them somewhere between .026-.029 to avoid spark blowout. DP AFR numbers between 11.9 to 12.5 work well, but even though everyone tells you that these afr numbers are the "Holy Grail", they are not; PLUG READING IS. Start reading up on how to properly read nitrous spark plugs now, it's an art that takes a bit of time to learn & understand. Maybe I missed it but you need to use a Digital Progressive Nitrous Controller at the higher HP levels to maintain safety, the better units* will also help with activation "Lean Spikes" which of course are a bad thing. Oh, a little bit of bad news, I seem to remember that the NX Proton module (Solenoids) only really work up to about 160-175 whp. You might want to call Mike at NX to verify this.



Good luck,
Rob43


* I have a Brand New WON (Wizards Of Nitrous) Maximiser sitting in the box.

Think I jumped the gun on this going to put the kit up for sale. Still doing the manifold and juice just think there is a better kit out there after doing some reading. Seems I will end up going with a DP system.

[Rob43]

There's nothing fundamentally wrong with this kit, It can certainly be upgraded to DP without any issues. Let me know & I can give you help in sourcing what you need cheaply.

Rob43

[Rob43]

These shower heads are the Key ingredient to making your Proton module function as a DP system. Mount the Red Fuel shower head directly to the Proton module, mount the Blue shower head away from the Proton module using a 12" to 18" inch 3an extension. This type of mounting will help with the activation Lean Spike issue.

Rob43


EDIT: After digging through my notes on the NX Proton module, they're good for about ~150 WHP out of the box using a single wet nozzle.