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Thread: What Do You Guys Use?

  1. #1
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    What Do You Guys Use?

    As far as oil goes in your whips, what do you guys use for oil? I ran Mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic in the stock motor, but now that I'm wrapping up my turbo build, I was looking for some input on what you guys prefer as far as weight and capacity goes? I've done some looking around but don't see any threads discussing any pros and cons of the lubricants people are using.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    I run Mobil 1 15w-50, which seems pretty popular, but I'm thinking of switching to a lighter weight, maybe M1 0w-40 or 0w-50. With the cooler weather, I'm not seeing engine oil temps above 180.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWManiac View Post
    I run Mobil 1 15w-50, which seems pretty popular, but I'm thinking of switching to a lighter weight, maybe M1 0w-40 or 0w-50. With the cooler weather, I'm not seeing engine oil temps above 180.
    Alex,
    Not to persuade your choice, but I hate castrol 5w-50. Because, when I started using it in both of my cars, after using Mobil 1 15w-50, they both started weeping/leaking from the timing chain cover area.

    That's not to say that I did not have an unforeseen problem, but it was definitely exacerbated. Thus, I switched back, and the problem was alleviated.

    Btw, this was about 3 years ago.
    This is my signature....

  5. #5
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    i think this thread would benefit from mentioning if its a stock motor or built motor
    328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
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  6. #6
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    Stock motor valvoline vr1 20w50 I love it

  7. #7
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    rotella t6 in nearly all my vehicles

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    Stock motor valvoline vr1 20w50 I love it
    yes

  9. #9
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    Isn't 20w50 a little thick on a stock motor....unless you have a m20?
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWManiac View Post
    Isn't 20w50 a little thick on a stock motor....unless you have a m20?
    Lol when I think 20w-50, I think m20/m30

    I've been running brad penn 10w-40 conventional for break in but next oil change will be switching to 10w-60 synthetic.

    Built motor.
    Last edited by e30kid89; 10-21-2014 at 11:02 PM.

  11. #11
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    I guess it depends on why you run it. Im in florida. there is very little difference in the weight of all of the oils when up to temperature so I went off of the weight at iirc 180 degrees. most all of the oils no matter the weight ended up at the exact same level. I had ticking when the car was hot and the pressure wasn't following the 10 psi per 1000 rpm rule of thumb. the 20w50 was less than 10% thicker with a hot motor but it eliminated all engine noise and pressure issues. if you let off the peddle before it warms up the motor slows like it has gum in the bearings so it takes a 10 minutes for that to go away. then everything does what its supposed to do.

    I suspect bad clearances in the motor but I don't have any proof other than slightly low compression and the fact that when I got the motor the kid was boosting very lean.

  12. #12
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    about 10k miles this way without an issue.

    however I do not like the fact that vr1 is a racing oil with very little in the additive package that controls all the crap that build up in the oil. at least according to their vague description of its peoperties.
    Last edited by bry195; 10-21-2014 at 10:40 PM.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowleym View Post
    rotella t6 in nearly all my vehicles
    Yes
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  15. #15
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    Agreed T6 is great and reasonably priced too!


  16. #16
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    liqui molly 10w60

  17. #17
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    RRSperry is offline Senior Moment Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bry195 View Post
    I guess it depends on why you run it. Im in florida. there is very little difference in the weight of all of the oils when up to temperature so I went off of the weight at iirc 180 degrees. most all of the oils no matter the weight ended up at the exact same level. I had ticking when the car was hot and the pressure wasn't following the 10 psi per 1000 rpm rule of thumb. the 20w50 was less than 10% thicker with a hot motor but it eliminated all engine noise and pressure issues. if you let off the peddle before it warms up the motor slows like it has gum in the bearings so it takes a 10 minutes for that to go away. then everything does what its supposed to do.

    I suspect bad clearances in the motor but I don't have any proof other than slightly low compression and the fact that when I got the motor the kid was boosting very lean.
    This is what matters. It also makes sense what you said about a small difference (I assume you were running Xw40 before?) when hot. The second number refers is the kinematic viscosity. Which is measured at operating temp. The first number is SAE viscosity when the oil is cold. Lots of great oil info here BTW --> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/puttin...nto-viscosity/

    I come from the E46 M3 world and all they do is debate why castrol 10w60 is god's own fluid or why its over priced and outdated or why liquidmoly is better or trash or M1 is awesome or that if you let even a drop of it near your motor, it will explode... Basicly from what I've researched, dont think of the oil as thinning as it gets hot... hot is when it does its work and thats what you should focus on. Think of it as thickening when cold. Too much viscosity (which is just the measure of a fluid's resistence to flow) will cause pressure to increase. This also means flow is decreased... not enough flow and parts get starved for lubrication. For that reason, and the awesome anti-wear additive package that it has, I run M1 0w40 in my built motor. Have 2 blackstone oil reports saying everything is healthy.

    HOWEVER, I will be trying Penrite 10tenths 0w50 in my upcoming oil change. It has an even higher anit-wear additive package than M1.

  19. #19
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    Question is.. Is an FI oil thread still just another oil thread..?

    After seeing how clean the internals were in my 205k M50tu during my rebuild I vowed never to stray from Rotella T6 5w40.

    First bought it at walmart as a budget move (10 years ago it was a cheaper solution than Mobil One) and loved it. Warms up quick in the winter and never seems to get "thin" even in the hottest Texas summer.

    Agreed that my old e30 with M20B25 loved the 20w50, drove that 7 years from 160k - 220k with zero issues beginning as a lead-footed teen. 11 years and counting in the e36, 125k - 205k and rebuilt into S52 650 miles ago, stock with .140 mls.

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  20. #20
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    Im pretty sure i run Napa brand 10/40.

    For those who dont know, Napa brand oil is Valvoline at a cheaper price.

    - - - Updated - - -

    stock motor
    328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
    9.20 at 150 on 22psi

  21. #21
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  22. #22
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    It's not just another oil tread in the F/I section. I asked because I have a F/I car. As I mentioned before, I ran M1 15w50 in my stock motor, but the new S52 has a stock bottom end, Schrick cams, and a Technica Motorsports-inspired turbo setup. 15w50 just seems a bit heavy for a motor with a bunch of new oil lines.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I ran 0w40 Mobil 1 in my ZHP, but this isn't exactly a ZHP haha

  23. #23
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  24. #24
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  25. #25
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