First Track Day with my Coupe

[ptee]

So, I'll be doing my first ever track day this coming Saturday. I've only ever done a couple of autocrosses, so this will be a new (and hopefully good) experience. Its an SCCA PDX at the Milwaukee Mile road course. Sounds like it'll be pretty low key. People are split into three groups (novice, intermediate, advanced) and those groups run with each other. So the novices with the novices, etc. The novice group (my group) will have instructors with them for all of the runs.

I was debating between taking my Miata or the Z3 Coupe, but I've decided on the Coupe, primarily due to safety concerns. My Miata doesn't have a rollbar and, even though it's allowed, I'm not sure I feel comfortable without one.

So the Coupe it is. Mine is bone-stock.

Any advice? Is there anything I should do to the car in preparation (the brake fluid was JUST flushed)? Anything else?

[dan3]

I will list what is recommended for me:

Completely flush your break system.
Ensure tires have sufficient tread.
Change your oil if your getting towards the end of its service life.
Batteries must be secured so they can't move in the event of an accident. (I have no idea what to do about this. Isn't the battery already secured?)
Check the tightness of your wheel lug bolts the day of.
Check tire inflation.

Torque tench, air pressure gauge and compressor are important to have.

Here is a tech inspection form that can give you more ideas.

http://ggcbmwcca.org/new_html/wp-con...rmLaguna90.pdf

[bimmerbri2]

You'll have a blast! Go buy some of the non-skid shelf liner (like they use in tool chest drawers). Cut it up so once piece will lay on the seat bottom and part way up the seat back. It helps keep you from sliding around on the seat so you can focus more on driving than on holding on to keep yourself in the seat. Bring lots of drinking water.

[BenFenner]

Don't touch the car between runs if it's not actually broken. As long as the car is in good/safe running condition you are in good shape with the car. The day is not about the car, changing the car, making the car better, etc. Your goal should be to be able to ignore the car on the day.


This is the advice I wish I'd been given:

Sun screen/wide-brimmed hat/parasol. Don't get skin cancer.

Memorize the flags and what they mean beforehand.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_flags
Many are not used. The most common for a typical HPDE day are Green, Yellow, Red, Black, Blue, Checkered, and sometimes black with orange circle ("meatball"), blue with yellow stripe, red and yellow striped.
You will not see an ambulance flag, a last lap flag, the unsportsmanlike conduct flag, the pit lane closed flag, etc.

Watch videos on YouTube of those running the track in the configuration you'll be using to familiarize yourself with the turns and what order they come.


The less that is "new" on the day, the better.




If you are held up by a conga line of cars because someone is ignoring point-by etiquette (see below) the best thing to do is to let your instructor know you're going to pull into the pits for a drive-through. Pull into the pits (don't forget your hand signal for this) and let the track attendant know you're doing a drive-through for clear track. They will release you again with some space and no more conga line. It took me a half dozen track days before anyone even mentioned this was a possibility. Those newcomers who get stuck in trains all day long light up with glee when they find out this technique.






This is the advice I wish other newbies were told (point-by etiquette):

Other than avoiding contact with physical objects while out on the track, point-bys are your first priority. Get used to giving them early and often. Give a few early on even if it makes no sense just to see what it's like, to let others know you won't be creating any conga lines today, and to get others in the mood and frame of mind to give them.

In the novice groups, the straight-away(s) are everyone's opportunity to re-shuffle and pass and setup a new order for the turns. This is where point-bys happen and each time you get to a straight-away it should be a massive re-shuffling of the car order. There is absolutely no need or reason to be WOT during the straight unless you are the only one within eyeshot. When allowing a car to pass on the straight, lift the throttle some or completely (no brakes though) so they can complete the pass in a short amount of space. You can get 3 or 4 or 5 or more point-bys done in one straight if you ease off a bit.

If there is someone behind you, point them by at your next opportunity. Personally, if someone is behind me for even one turn I'm already failing. If I wasn't antsy to point them by before then, by one turn I know I'm just ruining their day. If a whole lap goes by with someone behind you that you haven't at least attempted to point-by (and they waved you on), there is a special place in Hell for you.

A point-by is given for many reasons, but one thing newbies miss is the fact that a point-by TELLS THE FOLLOWING CAR WHICH SIDE YOU'D LIKE THEM TO PASS YOU. All too often this doesn't sink in until 2 or more track days when it should sink in earlier. If you want them to pass you on the left (and you're in a designated passing area of the track, and you're supposed to be signaling passing to the left in this area, and your front wheels are straight), fully extend your arm out of the window to the left and point to the left with your index finger. If you want them to pass you on your right (and you're in a designated passing area of the track, and you're supposed to be signaling passing to the right in this area, and your front wheels are straight), you will extend your left arm out of the window to the left and bend it at the elbow up above the car roof-line and point with your index ringer over to the right.
(You would be surprised how many folks who should know better learn to give point-bys to the right on their home track because that's all they've ever done, but then finally go to another track that needs point-bys to the left and they will give a point-by to the right because that's all they've ever known and they think it is a generic "point-by" signal not knowing there are directional aspects to them. I've almost taken cars out before because of this silly mistake.)



Want more nuggets? Read this thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ructor-stories

[CMM3]

I tell all my students first timers and advanced, and I practice what I preach.

Take the first session easy, focus on putting the car on the right line and being smooth with inputs; steering, throttle and brakes.

Get into a rhythm, keep your eyes up looking ahead.

If you do the above and nothing else you're speed on the track with naturally increase and in the later session you'll be able to refine skills and focus on other areas for improvement.

[kabel]

Lots of great advise here so far. Do you due diligence to help ensure the car is mechanically sound as you can make it and go out and enjoy the day.

The PDX program here in Central Florida has been great. Best bang for the buck and a really great way to get introduced to what track days are like.

[Z3SD]

There is a lot of great advice here.

Tragically, you are not getting the whole story. Saturday begins your long struggle with hpde addiction. It is a costly addiction. I have burned through thousands of dollars. I have replaced my tires and brakes in the past 2 years more times than I care to admit. I have been known to replace my brakes at all hours of the night and discuss racing lines aloud, in my sleep. The man at the tire shop suggests that there is a problem with my car causing me to replace the tires every few months. I just say no, man, it's that hpde. The man just shakes his head and takes my money, hoping that there might be help for somebody like me.

You will have a blast. New brake fluid, check tire pressures, make sure you have a lot of brake pad left, and make sure your oil is topped off plus a little extra.

[z3papa]

Definitely make sure you have a fair amount of brake pad left. Track days each pads which over heat easily. If yours are low, replace them and bleed. I actually swap in track pads but that's not essential. Have fun and remember its not a race and you'll be ok.

[ptee]

I will list what is recommended for me:

Completely flush your break system.
Ensure tires have sufficient tread.
Change your oil if your getting towards the end of its service life.
Batteries must be secured so they can't move in the event of an accident. (I have no idea what to do about this. Isn't the battery already secured?)
Check the tightness of your wheel lug bolts the day of.
Check tire inflation.

Torque tench, air pressure gauge and compressor are important to have.

Here is a tech inspection form that can give you more ideas.

http://ggcbmwcca.org/new_html/wp-con...rmLaguna90.pdf

Thanks!

You'll have a blast! Go buy some of the non-skid shelf liner (like they use in tool chest drawers). Cut it up so once piece will lay on the seat bottom and part way up the seat back. It helps keep you from sliding around on the seat so you can focus more on driving than on holding on to keep yourself in the seat. Bring lots of drinking water.

I wouldn't have even thought of that (the seat thing). I'll be sure to bring water!

Don't touch the car between runs if it's not actually broken. As long as the car is in good/safe running condition you are in good shape with the car. The day is not about the car, changing the car, making the car better, etc. Your goal should be to be able to ignore the car on the day.


This is the advice I wish I'd been given:

Sun screen/wide-brimmed hat/parasol. Don't get skin cancer.

Memorize the flags and what they mean beforehand.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_flags
Many are not used. The most common for a typical HPDE day are Green, Yellow, Red, Black, Blue, Checkered, and sometimes black with orange circle ("meatball"), blue with yellow stripe, red and yellow striped.
You will not see an ambulance flag, a last lap flag, the unsportsmanlike conduct flag, the pit lane closed flag, etc.

Watch videos on YouTube of those running the track in the configuration you'll be using to familiarize yourself with the turns and what order they come.


The less that is "new" on the day, the better.




If you are held up by a conga line of cars because someone is ignoring point-by etiquette (see below) the best thing to do is to let your instructor know you're going to pull into the pits for a drive-through. Pull into the pits (don't forget your hand signal for this) and let the track attendant know you're doing a drive-through for clear track. They will release you again with some space and no more conga line. It took me a half dozen track days before anyone even mentioned this was a possibility. Those newcomers who get stuck in trains all day long light up with glee when they find out this technique.






This is the advice I wish other newbies were told (point-by etiquette):

Other than avoiding contact with physical objects while out on the track, point-bys are your first priority. Get used to giving them early and often. Give a few early on even if it makes no sense just to see what it's like, to let others know you won't be creating any conga lines today, and to get others in the mood and frame of mind to give them.

In the novice groups, the straight-away(s) are everyone's opportunity to re-shuffle and pass and setup a new order for the turns. This is where point-bys happen and each time you get to a straight-away it should be a massive re-shuffling of the car order. There is absolutely no need or reason to be WOT during the straight unless you are the only one within eyeshot. When allowing a car to pass on the straight, lift the throttle some or completely (no brakes though) so they can complete the pass in a short amount of space. You can get 3 or 4 or 5 or more point-bys done in one straight if you ease off a bit.

If there is someone behind you, point them by at your next opportunity. Personally, if someone is behind me for even one turn I'm already failing. If I wasn't antsy to point them by before then, by one turn I know I'm just ruining their day. If a whole lap goes by with someone behind you that you haven't at least attempted to point-by (and they waved you on), there is a special place in Hell for you.

A point-by is given for many reasons, but one thing newbies miss is the fact that a point-by TELLS THE FOLLOWING CAR WHICH SIDE YOU'D LIKE THEM TO PASS YOU. All too often this doesn't sink in until 2 or more track days when it should sink in earlier. If you want them to pass you on the left (and you're in a designated passing area of the track, and you're supposed to be signaling passing to the left in this area, and your front wheels are straight), fully extend your arm out of the window to the left and point to the left with your index finger. If you want them to pass you on your right (and you're in a designated passing area of the track, and you're supposed to be signaling passing to the right in this area, and your front wheels are straight), you will extend your left arm out of the window to the left and bend it at the elbow up above the car roof-line and point with your index ringer over to the right.
(You would be surprised how many folks who should know better learn to give point-bys to the right on their home track because that's all they've ever done, but then finally go to another track that needs point-bys to the left and they will give a point-by to the right because that's all they've ever known and they think it is a generic "point-by" signal not knowing there are directional aspects to them. I've almost taken cars out before because of this silly mistake.)



Want more nuggets? Read this thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ructor-stories

Thanks Ben, that helps a lot. Good points on the point-bys...I wasn't really familiar with them.

I tell all my students first timers and advanced, and I practice what I preach.

Take the first session easy, focus on putting the car on the right line and being smooth with inputs; steering, throttle and brakes.

Get into a rhythm, keep your eyes up looking ahead.

If you do the above and nothing else you're speed on the track with naturally increase and in the later session you'll be able to refine skills and focus on other areas for improvement.

That's what I'm planning on. Nothing crazy, get the basics down, etc. Thanks.

Lots of great advise here so far. Do you due diligence to help ensure the car is mechanically sound as you can make it and go out and enjoy the day.

The PDX program here in Central Florida has been great. Best bang for the buck and a really great way to get introduced to what track days are like.

Thanks!

There is a lot of great advice here.

Tragically, you are not getting the whole story. Saturday begins your long struggle with hpde addiction. It is a costly addiction. I have burned through thousands of dollars. I have replaced my tires and brakes in the past 2 years more times than I care to admit. I have been known to replace my brakes at all hours of the night and discuss racing lines aloud, in my sleep. The man at the tire shop suggests that there is a problem with my car causing me to replace the tires every few months. I just say no, man, it's that hpde. The man just shakes his head and takes my money, hoping that there might be help for somebody like me.

You will have a blast. New brake fluid, check tire pressures, make sure you have a lot of brake pad left, and make sure your oil is topped off plus a little extra.

That's what I'm afraid of

Definitely make sure you have a fair amount of brake pad left. Track days each pads which over heat easily. If yours are low, replace them and bleed. I actually swap in track pads but that's not essential. Have fun and remember its not a race and you'll be ok.

Yeah, I'm going to check that tonight. They're fairly new, so I should be okay, but the last thing I want is to run out of pad when I'm trying to stop...

[the alpinweiss]

I went overkill (like I usually do) and went ahead and installed a separate "track only" brake setup and I'm glad I did. It cost me a little bit up front (around $750 iirc) but I got brakes that were meant for the track. I went with Hawk DTC60 pads, brembo blanks and put new ATE fluid in. I did a number on the brakes in my first few days, and I'm so glad that when I declared my season over (after only 4 short track days) I put my street setup back on. All I have to do before I hit the track again is have the rotors turned to clean the pad material off and swap brakes again. It's also nice to bring the street setup with me to the track to have as a spare "just in case" I need brakes to get home. I highly doubt I'd be driving the car if I did enough to totally destroy my brakes but it's good to have spares, ya never know.

Agree with the sentiment of others though, HPDE is one helluva drug.

[PbFut]

Ignore the arrogant holier than thou instructor types. They generally are making up for something lacking. If the car is in good enough shape to travel across country, it’s good enough for your first event. Don’t get carried away with prep. Not needed first time other than basic good maintenance. You don’t need special, or track related parts yet. Make sure you “like” your instructor and can relate to his ways. If not, don’t be shy about finding someone else. It’s your money, get what you paid for. You will be so amped up, that first session will not likely get much out of it other than used to track and settling you down. Once you get that out of the way, you can learn. Last thing, if you try to drive at 10-10 you are using 100% of your brain’s ability to control the car. If you can back down the felling to “race” the track, then you will learn more and not pick up bad habits. Good luck, and above all, have fun. Last thing, if the addiction hits, cut your credit cards up. If you don’t have the cash, don’t buy it.

[ptee]

I went overkill (like I usually do) and went ahead and installed a separate "track only" brake setup and I'm glad I did. It cost me a little bit up front (around $750 iirc) but I got brakes that were meant for the track. I went with Hawk DTC60 pads, brembo blanks and put new ATE fluid in. I did a number on the brakes in my first few days, and I'm so glad that when I declared my season over (after only 4 short track days) I put my street setup back on. All I have to do before I hit the track again is have the rotors turned to clean the pad material off and swap brakes again. It's also nice to bring the street setup with me to the track to have as a spare "just in case" I need brakes to get home. I highly doubt I'd be driving the car if I did enough to totally destroy my brakes but it's good to have spares, ya never know.

Agree with the sentiment of others though, HPDE is one helluva drug.

Ignore the arrogant holier than thou instructor types. They generally are making up for something lacking. If the car is in good enough shape to travel across country, it’s good enough for your first event. Don’t get carried away with prep. Not needed first time other than basic good maintenance. You don’t need special, or track related parts yet. Make sure you “like” your instructor and can relate to his ways. If not, don’t be shy about finding someone else. It’s your money, get what you paid for. You will be so amped up, that first session will not likely get much out of it other than used to track and settling you down. Once you get that out of the way, you can learn. Last thing, if you try to drive at 10-10 you are using 100% of your brain’s ability to control the car. If you can back down the felling to “race” the track, then you will learn more and not pick up bad habits. Good luck, and above all, have fun. Last thing, if the addiction hits, cut your credit cards up. If you don’t have the cash, don’t buy it.

Thanks guys. I'm planning on taking it slow (the driving and the addiction). We'll see how it goes...tomorrow is the day! Will report back.

[ptee]

Well, I did it! It was a good day. Lots of fun, but I'm not sure that its for me. I think, in general, I'd prefer to go drive on a nice twisty road...not sure. Driving at 110+ on a straightaway next to a concrete wall and having to brake hard into a turn was exhilarating, but also a bit scary, especially when you start to experience brake fade...

I'll probably do it again at some point next summer (perhaps at Road America). Less concrete walls there I hear

My instructor was great, the course was fun (but short) and I learned quite a bit. I do need to practice my heel-toe downshift technique though...or buy a car with DSG

The cars were split up into three groups...advanced, intermediate and beginner. Each group got 4 separate runs of 20 minutes each (which was about perfect for me). All of the drivers in the beginners group had instructors with them the entire time, which I felt was really a good thing. I know that I was happy to have the help, as I'm sure others were as well.

Thanks for the tips!

Here's a short in-car video and some photos...

[kabel]

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for reporting back on your experience.
Rovals are not the most interesting tracks for a track day for sure. But a nice simple track is good for getting your feet wet. Road America would be a pretty awesome next tract ;-)

[BenFenner]

I would give it at least one more try with brakes that don't fade. Nothing saps the confidence like not being able to trust the brakes.

[Z3SD]

Nice driving!

I agree that you should try other tracks. Looks like your car tends to understeer like mine. At other tracks it can be fun to power out of corners but I tend to prefer that at tracks without walls at corner exit

[ptee]

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for reporting back on your experience.
Rovals are not the most interesting tracks for a track day for sure. But a nice simple track is good for getting your feet wet. Road America would be a pretty awesome next tract ;-)

Agreed. It wasn't the most interesting, but it was great for learning. There were some interesting turns for sure, but no real elevation changes and such either.

I would give it at least one more try with brakes that don't fade. Nothing saps the confidence like not being able to trust the brakes.

Yeah, I will. You're right...coming into that corner at 100mph and having your brakes not feel as strong as they were last lap was really weird...and a bit scary!

Nice driving!

I agree that you should try other tracks. Looks like your car tends to understeer like mine. At other tracks it can be fun to power out of corners but I tend to prefer that at tracks without walls at corner exit

Thanks! To be fair, in that video I think I had the traction control turned off, but the stability control turned ON. That might explain some of the understeer... On my last lap (not recorded) I turned everything off and felt quite a bit quicker.

[marchewitt]

Brian,

This is Marc from Raleigh. You replied to my message this morning about tracking the 2000 Coupe, and the messaging function has been frozen ever since (tried four times to reply to your response, but the message just disappears each time I send).

I'd like to catch up with you about tracking the car, but I won't be at Cars and Coffee because I'll be at an HPDE at VIR (a PCA event). Hopefully I can catch up with you some other time (maybe by phone) just to pick your brain.

-Marc