98 M3 with a AA C38 supercharger. Currently Stage 1 but I'll be going Stage II in the spring. I don't have any place to work on the car during winter so I'm putting all work on hold till spring and collecting parts for what I have planned. As soon as it warms up again I'll be doing a head gasket, clutch and a few other things. I need advice on the head gasket. No plans to turbo. So what should I be looking for? I'd like to make the engine as bullet proof as possible. I've done head gaskets before but always stock parts.
Last edited by flyfishvt; 10-19-2014 at 07:01 AM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Do it once, cut ring HG.
http://www.performancebyie.com/je-cu...re-0-079-thick
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
I agree with the recommendation above.
And what about head studs? Does that cut ring come as a kit like stock gaskets? Or will I have to source the individual gaskets? What about thickness? Should I wait to see how much material they shave off the head before I buy the gasket?
Last edited by flyfishvt; 10-19-2014 at 09:24 AM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Buy the 0.079. It is the thickest one. Slightly thicker than stock 0.071. Will compensate for decking the head. Use ARP head studs. Any other top end gaskets you need, you will have to source on your own or buy a stock HG kit and toss the HG. Whichever is cheaper.
I concur, I did 1 MLS, failed then did 3 cut rings and none of them failed. Do it once and do it right.
Regarding thickness, that dependent if you are going to lower the compression or not... if you are sticking with stock compression then I would go with the suggestion above.
Last edited by Matutino; 10-19-2014 at 09:09 PM.
Old set up: 520RWHP & 500RWTQ @ 20PSI 1/4 mile as of 7/26/15 12.5 @ 125MPH - 19PSI
New set up: Steedspeed Twinscroll, Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 CR, K1 Rods, Blueprinted and Balanced, ARP Main Studs, o-ring block, GTR 12mm head studs, GT35R with 86mm HTA billet compressor wheel (GT3586RHTA) TwinScrol 1.06 exhaust housing, Nick G custom tuning, 6 Speed Transmission, UUC Twin Disc Clutch, UUC EVO III, UUC DSSR 109mm, EVO 6 Speed Driveshaft, HFS-6 W/M injection, Zeitronix data logger, 3" SS full exhaust, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Race coilovers.
I wouldn't lower the compression with a centri supercharger, off boost driving will suffer tremendously. Just go with the cut-ring setup/ARP combo and be done with it. I wish I had gone with the cut-ring + copper spacer from the beginning just for peace of mind. Replace EVERY single gasket while you're in there, don't be cheap with FI maintenance.
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