How to remove drivers side control arm?

[steve f]

I've always been reluctant to use a picklefork to release the taper on the inner ball joint because I don't want to deform the subframe. I use a 2# or 3# dead blow mallet striking the knuckle from different angles. Sometimes it comes loose easy, many times not, requiring a lot of effort and a subsequent trip to the massage therapist to release the knot along side my scapula.

One time, when it was particularly stuck I did resort to coming in from above with a long bar as a drift and a heavy drilling hammer. Fortunately that was on an M54 car so there was room.

What can be an issue, is getting the taper-fit to release its grip; I devised a bridge-like affair, and use a very large C-clamp to encourage it to let go.

I'd like to see this so I could copy the idea. It might save me a few $$ on medical expenses!

[Gofast]

I've always been reluctant to use a picklefork to release the taper on the inner ball joint because I don't want to deform the subframe. I use a 2# or 3# dead blow mallet striking the knuckle from different angles.

Like I said, this is one of the few places I actually like a normal framing hammer over a deadblow mallet.
The shocking, ringing impact of metal on metal seems to get the joint loose better than the softer hit of a mallet.

[BimmerBreaker]

I've always been reluctant to use a picklefork to release the taper on the inner ball joint because I don't want to deform the subframe. I use a 2# or 3# dead blow mallet striking the knuckle from different angles. Sometimes it comes loose easy, many times not, requiring a lot of effort and a subsequent trip to the massage therapist to release the knot along side my scapula.

One time, when it was particularly stuck I did resort to coming in from above with a long bar as a drift and a heavy drilling hammer. Fortunately that was on an M54 car so there was room.



I'd like to see this so I could copy the idea. It might save me a few $$ on medical expenses!

I've got a loose subframe I've experimented on for a few things and after doing so, I am not worried about the integrity of the subframe at all. Extremely strong. I dont think I've ever seen one that was deformed in any of the cars I've worked on. My Coupe has bent shock towers and completely mangled control arms but the subframe still meausres out correctly. Those things can take a lot of hurt. It might hurt the control arm to remove it with the picklefork, but usually I replace the whole arm, so its not something I'm too concerned about personally.

I like to look at it from the perspective that the taper will give up at a force well below the force required to damage anything around there.

[Gofast]

I've got a loose subframe I've experimented on for a few things and after doing so, I am not worried about the integrity of the subframe at all. Extremely strong. I dont think I've ever seen one that was deformed in any of the cars I've worked on. My Coupe has bent shock towers and completely mangled control arms but the subframe still meausres out correctly. Those things can take a lot of hurt. It might hurt the control arm to remove it with the picklefork, but usually I replace the whole arm, so its not something I'm too concerned about personally.

I like to look at it from the perspective that the taper will give up at a force well below the force required to damage anything around there.

Did you check the bores in the subframe for roundness? From what I've read, the issues start when the taper bores become ovalized.

[khammack]

I like to use the self removing control arms ...

image.jpg

Unfortunately this one decided to remove itself while I was driving.

[Randy Forbes]

Whenever possible, I refrain from using hammers on cars that don't belong to me...

I don't use a pickle fork either, because most of the time, I'm not replacing the lower control arm, so I can't afford to let the rubber boot get torn up. I remove the LH LCA from the XMBR, so I can swing the assembly (to the right) and get it out of my way to replace rod bearings.

My C-clamp and bridge affair; just putting moderate pressure in the end of the ball-joint stem, and a *smart rap* on the end of the clamp-screw will shock the pieces apart. Sometimes I just leave it clamped and walk away__usually within a few minutes, it'll pop (with the C-clamp tumbling to the floor!). Like I said, I'm all about preserving the stem and gaiter on the ball-joint, If I was replacing the LCA, I'd use my (generic) Morgan Knocker with a "hook" end on it, and pull the sucker out!

[BimmerBreaker]

I like that idea Randy. I think I am going to start utilizing that method instead of the picklefork.

Gofast, the two front subframes I've recently worked still have completely round holes but I see how that could be an issue. I think it depends how you use the picklefork to whether or not it will make the holes oval or not. I'm always as gentle as possible and it usually takes me awhile to get it to drop, but it will come eventually.

[Randy Forbes]

I like that idea Randy. I think I am going to start utilizing that method instead of the picklefork.

Gofast, the two front subframes I've recently worked still have completely round holes but I see how that could be an issue. I think it depends how you use the picklefork to whether or not it will make the holes oval or not. I'm always as gentle as possible and it usually takes me awhile to get it to drop, but it will come eventually.

I found it advantageous to mill a small pocket in the base of the C-clamp, to keep it centered on the stem. Prior to doing so, it was a handful to balance the C-clamp, while tightening it and holding the bridge piece. I DO NOT recommend wearing flip-flops while performing that operation!

[steve f]

I DO NOT recommend wearing flip-flops while performing that operation!

The voice of experience?

Thank you Randy for the picture and all you contribute.

[Randy Forbes]

The voice of experience?

Thank you Randy for the picture and all you contribute.

No, but there's one guy that always comes over here wearing them; I will say though, he has remarkably quick reflexes__and I've given him plenty of reasons to demonstrate them

[BimmerBreaker]

I found it advantageous to mill a small pocket in the base of the C-clamp, to keep it centered on the stem. Prior to doing so, it was a handful to balance the C-clamp, while tightening it and holding the bridge piece. I DO NOT recommend wearing flip-flops while performing that operation!

I'm just going to weld a large C-channel to a C-clamp so its permanent. We have hundreds of C-clamps here, dedicating one to functioning as this sort of tool wont be any great loss.

And regarding the flip flops... do you know me IRL or something??? They always laugh at me around the shop as for the vast majority of jobs I wear just flip flops... somewhat ironically I lost a toenail recently, but that was while moving stuff from one office to another, I've yet to damage my feet in any way while working in the shop (knock on wood).

[rf900rkw]

Work flip-flops, every day flip-flops, and formal flip-flops.

[robb1887]

I dont think I've seen Randy(rf900rkw) in any kind of shoe other than flipflops...

(Unless Clownshoes qualify?!)

[m34ever]

Update: My Dad had a 22 mm wrench he brought over last night that I was able to squeeze in from under the car and get the nut off. Only took about 5 minutes or so of doing 1/4 turns and flipping the wrench. I used a picklefork to pop the control arm off without a problem. Thanks for all the advice, this turned into a far more informative thread then I would have thought.

[328 Power 04]

Update: My Dad had a 22 mm wrench he brought over last night that I was able to squeeze in from under the car and get the nut off. Only took about 5 minutes or so of doing 1/4 turns and flipping the wrench. I used a picklefork to pop the control arm off without a problem. Thanks for all the advice, this turned into a far more informative thread then I would have thought.

Great success!


Well I use a machine-shop made hammer made of brass. You can deliver heavy blows to things, and the hammer will dent and deform, while keeping the control arm nice and safe. It's used usually on things around the machine shop that can't afford to have any flaws, but need some hammering.

And flip-flops every time.

[steve f]

Very nice! Thanks for the update.

[Vinci]

I dont think I've seen Randy(rf900rkw) in any kind of shoe other than flipflops...

(Unless Clownshoes qualify?!)

Aren't roadsters the flipflop clownshoe?

[rf900rkw]

But I don't have a pair of roadsters.

[Randy Forbes]

But I don't have a pair of roadsters.

Maybe not now...

[rf900rkw]

Maybe not now...

Errr, who blabbed?

[Randy Forbes]

Errr, who blabbed?

Pure speculation, laced with a little knowledge of how our minds operate!

[QuestMCoupe]

Old thread but I came in here trying to find the right size socket for my control arms. I read an article on pelican and it said 22mm. Went to the store and picked up a 22mm and it looks like my control arms use 21mm and 18mm instead of the 22mm and 17mm most people have seen here.

[BimmerBreaker]

I seem to recall mine being 22/17 when I took them off but the replacements with new hardware were 21/17mm for whatever reason. I thought it was a bit weird, but my parts came straight from the dealer so I just figured it was a change made at some point and the new superceded the old.

(edit I may have mixed up which was which, but one was 21 one was 22... I'd trust Randy below for his input on this...)

[Randy Forbes]

Seems like all the originals are 21mm, though some of the replacements are 22mm. Irks me, because I have a slew of 21mm tools for the purpose, depending on access...

[khammack]

We just did my friends a couple of weeks ago. His were 21/18 as were mine. Both were original equipment on S54 M Roadsters. Like Randy said, after market may be different.