Supercharger Installation - Preliminary Maintenance and Mods - M62

[drawn05]

Hi All

I have purchased a Supercharger kit from one of the recent group buys and I am wondering what should I replace or add before it is installed. Perhaps this can be of use to others in the future as there isnt a great deal of information on this.

As a background, I have a '99 540i, non M-sport that has 117k miles on the clock. I am the 3rd owner and it has a fully documented service history. I had it dyno'd not long after I purchased it and it made 235whp/175rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics machine.
6_zps42e9a7be.jpg


I also ran it down the local 1/4 mile with a 14.2 @96mph - pretty slow.

About 6 months ago I replaced the stock intake manifold with the M60 manifold, replaced the scuba tank muffler and added a 4" CAI. I also replaced the plugs and valve cover gaskets - though I strongly suspect a vacuum leak somewhere.
1_zpsfec384e3.jpg

took it to the 1/4 mile again last night (almost exactly 12 months later) and ran a 14.3@97.....so the mods do nothing without tuning despite what has been posted widely on the interwebs. If anything I think the DME is now quite confused and not running smoothly at all.

I also purchased a Dinan throttle body that I will install at the same time as the SC.

So, I am open for suggestions as to what should be replaced before I get the SC installed, I was thinking:

Ignition Coils
Crank Position Senors
Fuel Pump + Filter/Regulator
Perhaps the o2 Sensors

Anything else? I will update the progress of the install and the results along the way.

[JimLev]

If you don't have codes for the coils or the crank sensor replacing them will not do anything.
Look at your short and long term trims for the O2 sensors. If they have never been replaced you may want to change them, at least the front sensors.
14.2, 14.3, it's all in the launch.

[drawn05]

I formerly had a 135i and when i installed a piggy back that up'd the boost by a further 7psi, the coil packs that had previously never had any trouble cause limp modes. I was thinking the same might be true for the 6psi of the SC, but I would truly prefer not to spend the $1000 to replace them.

Yeah, the front O2 sensors are original and I think due for replacement anyway. The codes I have been getting are:

28 Additive Adaptation Bank 1 Control Limit Reached
29 Additive Adaptation Bank 2 Control Limit Reached
140 Activation Map Cooling

The thing with the 1/4 mile times is that the launch was about the same (2.1 second 60') but the M60 intake manifold, CAI and muffler (not to mention the weight reduction things I have done) made no improvement.

[BimmerBreaker]

M5's run 13s, I think your car is running decent numbers considering the relatively limited mods. What numbers are you trying to achieve? You can probably get sub-14 seconds with a good launch but with just those mods you dont have a lot of room to go

I'm not sure where you read that an M60 manifold, CAI, and muffler will increase HP or lower 1/4 times but I would advise you that that isnt true. The stock intake system is a true CAI, what you have now is breathing in hot air from a low pressure zone. The stock intake system was taking in cold air from a high pressure zone. High pressure is better, it means more air in an area, and thus more oxygen to grab. Colder is denser too, so stock is better than what you've got more likely than not. Muffler won't affect anything except the noise. M60 manifold changes the flow characteristics of the intake manifold and may shift the powerband and with a tune MAY gain some HP but right out the box, so to speak, I wouldn't expect it to gain any significant power. I'm willing to bet the muffler and manifold were a wash regarding power gains, but the "CAI" likely hurt the power, enough to offset the gains you should have seen with lowering the weight.

Regarding the s/c maintenance upgrades, coil packs and etc may be good, but IMHO... install first, and go from there. It would just be wasted money if they are up to the task.

[drawn05]

I am not too upset about the 1/4 mile times, i wasnt expecting anything ridiculous. These cars are old and comparatively underpowered so the times are just what they are. I guess I was deliriously hoping for a 13.9 at the very best but a 14 flat would have made me quite happy. Its not far off but I just had a gut feeling that the mods and weight reduction would have made even a little improvement. I have read many threads on here and other forums talking up the benefits of the m60 manifold for the m62tu and other mods. But I agree, they are not likely to provide any real benefit.

Will be interesting to see if the m60 manifold causes any problems once the SC is installed - I might be better off going back to the stock manifold.

[geargrinder]

Nope you want the big runners for SURE w the S/C. Most of your other suggestions are throwing parts randomly i would stop that route of thinking immediately. The stock coils are excellent and are proven to handle SC level boost fine. You'd know if that was an issue from codes at the least or notable misfires on WOT at the worst. Very different than a bigger boosting turbo car.

As mentioned the usual CAI's are anti-performance or at very least no-gain mods.

The trim issue DOES point to a minor problem. O2 is good suggest. Other things to look at could be clean the MAF, change fuel filter, check vac hoses as you rightfully pointed out. And what do you have for cats down in Oz? Stuffed up exhaust can be a drag on performance. Maybe injectors arent flowing as much as new but you'll have new ones in the kit anyway.

You dont say whose kit you bought by the way but it better be tuned for the Dinan throttle body or you'll be in suboptimal land too. If its not i'd leave the TB on the shelf for the meantime. Otherwise welcome to the blower club. The 540 is FUN w a blower on it, you'll be pleased...

[drawn05]

Yep, all good points guys and I will take them all on board.

The kit is the VF Engineering one, which had a recent promotion a few months ago. I am quite looking forward to getting it installed. I discussed the M60 manifold and Dinan TB with VF prior to purchase and was told that they shouldn't be a problem, but who knows.

After the SC, I intend to get the cats in the manifolds removed and the primary cats replaced with hi-flow versions. Perhaps a full manifold back system fabricated...but we shall see how everything pans out. I intend to drop the car off with the performance shop that will be doing the SC install, so that they can give the car a thorough inspection and determine how its holding up (and fix any vacuum leaks).

[BimmerBreaker]

Just FWIW, you'll definitely want the larger manifold with the S/C kit.

[philly98540]

If your valve covers are showing any signs of leaking, I'd do those gaskets before the SC install. Not a huge deal to remove the SC later, but might as well do them now if they are leaking at all. When you SC, you loose any crankcase vacuum, and the crankcase can actually be slightly pressurized more than stock during full throttle runs. This can accelerate valve cover leaks.

As far as changing parts goes, keep the M60 mani, but leave off the Dinan TB as others stated. It may screw up the tune a bit. Maybe try it later...

No need to change any of the crank, cam sensors, etc, but maybe prudent to change the front O2's. A good idea would be to add a wideband O2 sensor to be sure your tune is safe and AFR's are happy and keeping your motor safe.

Best of luck with the kit. The power is very nice. Be ready to be buying tires more often.


Ooops- just re read and saw you did the VC gaskets. Nevermind...

[geargrinder]

The kit is the VF Engineering one

Cool. Both Philly and I have relatively recent experience hand installing that kit so if you run into any issues be sure it hit us up. I am now pretty expert on pulling and reinstalling that setup. There are places where the doc is good and other places it's pretty crappy and has some passing "now just install this" for stuff that's a relatively big hassle. The M62TU tune from VF DOES run a bit rich on they dyno so maybe the big TB 'will be ok' if it flows a little more, but who knows. Ideally you put the car on the dyno as soon as it's installed with a wideband and check and see how it runs and make sure all is well.

And of course I'm not sure what the challenges will be w/ a RHD car... come to think of it those could be considerable...

Did VF guarantee it would be fine w/ the RHD or do they have a RHD version? Stuff is dayum tight on the right side of the engine bay around the ABS module, can't imagine having even more steering box / braking crap over there... tried to google an engine bay pic of a RHD 540i but no luck without killing myself.

[drawn05]

The workshop that will be installing the kit will do it in 2-3 weeks as they are flat out with N54/55 stuff, which is their primary customer base these days.

The kit arrived last week and I have been looking at what to replace/fix on the car before hand. The Secondary Air Pump has started screeching upon start up which I guess means it must need replacing, though isnt really engine related.
The ticking/clunking of this engine really worries me sometimes as it can appear more severe at random times. I made some videos of the noise it makes at idle, though from what other youtube vids of M62s sound like, maybe this is normal.

tell me what you think....

[geargrinder]

Exhaust leak. If your SAP is borked that could be related. An open SAP pipe sounds a lot like that.

You never answered the question about the RHD issue? Did they confirm thats going to work?

[drawn05]

Exhaust leak. If your SAP is borked that could be related. An open SAP pipe sounds a lot like that.

You never answered the question about the RHD issue? Did they confirm thats going to work?

I have just disconnected the pump as an interim fix, as the noise was getting a bit ridiculous in the mornings. No code or CEL yet which is a pleasant surprise.

There are a few e34 and e39 540is that have supercharger systems in Australia, and I have not heard of any RHD specific issues. After looking the through the install instructions, I cant see what would pose a problem re: LHD/RHD. Everything appears to be mounted up high enough away from the steering system.

The instructions from VF only suggest replacing spark plugs if older than a year and the coolant temp sensor, so I have ordered some and hopefully that will all thats needed.

[geargrinder]

Okey doke. As long as the LHD/RHD changes are all well back from the front of the motor it should be OK. Like I said before - the steering box / column would be my biggest concern but I don't know how BMW does the whole engine compartment reconfig on the E39 w/ the V8's so maybe its fine.

How did you "disconnect the pump"? Electrically or air-plumbing or both? Something in your SAI is borked for sure, and that's likely related. The whole SAI plumbing has to come off for the blower install (and the SAI hard pipes are all replaced with ones that VF provides) so all that can be looked at when that happens.

BTW my VF SAI hardpipe had poor QC, caused a whole hassle of sending out to a welder to cut and reweld a chuck from a stock part in order to get it not to leak and sound like 7 buckets of rotten goat ass all the time. Tell your shop to be 100% SURE that the SAI pipes seal properly into the heads before continuing with the install. If they don't then you have to tear the blower mounts all off again to take it apart and fix it. If you are not DIY'ing that will be expensive cuz you'd be paying them for it.

Also - the VF instructions I have don't tell you what to do for the intensive washer but that's another thing that has to be relocated (or deleted) if you have it. Wiring and hose needs to be rerouted over to the left side of the car just like you do w/ the SAP.

[drawn05]

The hose from the SAI pump to the valve had rubbed against a pulley and sliced open, no doubt causing the pump to run at 100% each morning and leading to its early death. I fixed the hose but its too late for the pump and I will need a new one.

Another thing I have started to think about is the transmission software. I notice that most of you other SC guys on here have the manual trans, which unfortunately was never offered in Australia. So as I am stuck with the auto, should I get the TCU flashed with the Dinan SC/Transmission software to accommodate the new power output? Has anyone on here got a SC Auto? If so, how does it shift with the extra load?

[geargrinder]

Hah. "Stuck with an auto" is for pooozies, mate (or should I say "fannies?" hah fannies is not a bad word here, maybe I'll start using it more... I do love the Ozzie copious use of the C-word, too bad we can't do that here... anyway...) Check my checklist for how to make it happen.

Srlsy yeah there've been plenty of guys installing the blowers on auto applications. The 5hp24 should hold up to it but it is purportedly better to run a tune for it, not to mention being more enjoyable.

I still wonder if your SAP pipes are leaking because of your issues there causing that exhaust leak noise. Also I think there's some stuff someplace on teh innerwebz about using generic Pierburg pumps if the genuine BMW one is too pricey - that pump is used on a load of VW's and Audis too IIRC...

HTH...

[drawn05]

Well, as much as I wouldnt mind doing the 6MT swap, its a bit cost-prohibitive at the moment

There appears to be 2 choices for Auto flash, $299 for Dinan Stage 5 Auto or $499 for the ESS Tuning. I think I will flick VF an email and get their opinion on what to do, considering they dont seem to offer a solution themselves.

[dme88]

OIL CATCH CAN. For the sake of GOD. Do not forget the Crank Case ventilation. You CAN NOT connect just connect the oil separator/connector back on lcv plate to the intake.

[geargrinder]

OIL CATCH CAN. For the sake of GOD. Do not forget the Crank Case ventilation. You CAN NOT connect just connect the oil separator/connector back on lcv plate to the intake.

The VF kit replaces the CCV with a new plate that passes the PCV crossover tube straight out the back, and then it gets run back to the blower intake tubes. That way they ensure no pressurization of the crankcase w/ boost

[drawn05]

Hi GG, I notice that in your mod list that you dont have an intercooler setup, have you considered one and/or have some good info? The M5 steering box retrofit looks quite interesting, I might look into that as well.

[geargrinder]

Yeah its a bitch to fit on the E39. Thats why most of the 540 kitmakers bailed on it. A few M5 blower guys have done FMIC's, the badass setup is something like the RMS S62 chargecooler setup in the valley - bigM62 has that retro'd to an M62 but if you cant swing a 6MT conversion then ferget about any of the charge cooling... that stuff gonna be $$$$

[dme88]

The VF kit replaces the CCV with a new plate that passes the PCV crossover tube straight out the back, and then it gets run back to the blower intake tubes. That way they ensure no pressurization of the crankcase w/ boost

Yes, but that is not enough. You WILL get oil sludge thru that pipe, and you NEED a catch can either in-between intake and PCV plate or just vent it into the air. If undealt with, that oil-water-air mix WILL break your MAF. And if you're using some cheap as heater hose, it can swell and cause blockage.

[geargrinder]

Yes, but that is not enough. You WILL get oil sludge thru that pipe, and you NEED a catch can either in-between intake and PCV plate or just vent it into the air. If undealt with, that oil-water-air mix WILL break your MAF. And if you're using some cheap as heater hose, it can swell and cause blockage.

PCV comes in well upstream of the MAF, right at the blower intake. I've considered a catch-can and yes there's a little film in there but if your setup has a ton more than that, I think something might be wrong. Philly and Jim have fitted oil separator catch cans and basically found hardly any noticeable oil gets through, mostly water condensate. On my setup the only film is right there pre-blower well past the MAF. And I can check this easily... just not a problem.

Dont get me wrong I'd agree if the recycle was pre-MAF, don't want to oil the MAF, but just isn't an issue in the VF setup. The bigger danger there is the K&N filter oil after you refresh it.

[philly98540]

Yes. No oil in my catch can after a whole summer of driving. Just a light film. The m62 has great sealing on the pistons/rings so low blowby, well at least on my car. If blowby is high, or osv is failing, then a catch can is almost a must.

I plan to remove my catch can soon. I have meth injection now, so my thinking is this will clean out any light film in the intake tract.

[geargrinder]

First pic below is what my MAF housing looks like after thousands of miles of blower driving, uncleaned, straight off the car. If there's any trace of oil film then it's almost undetectable and from the K&N cone and not from the PCV.

Second pic just illustrates where the PCV comes into the tubing (red arrow). Which is upstream of the BPV recycle. Meaning that even when the blower isn't creating maximum vacuum in the intake tract, the BPV is cycling air past the PCV, making it extremely extremely unlikely that any PCV

And I'd just second Philly's comments which second my comments - if you're dumping that amount of oil you have another problem. What does ESS do to deal with the CCV anyway? Is it like VF and they provide a replacement plate?