1999 M Roadster. What kind of oil. My search confused the heck out of me. Please help

[Kram71]

I saw some people saying 5-30 conventional
Others said Castrol 5-30 synthetic
Others said 10-60
I even looked in the manual but the temps are in metric, lol.

Where I live the temp is usually 50-100 degrees. We do not have many days below 50.

Please tell me :

Brand
Conventional or Synthetic
Viscosity


Thank you!

[Terry F.]

My advice is to use any synthetic and change it often, 3000-5000 miles. Since it isn't an S-54, don't dwell too much on brand although Mobil 1 is popular. Do you track your car?

There is no single answer to your questions, IMO. If YMMV ever applied, it is to an oil question.

Terry

[Kram71]

My advice is to use any synthetic and change it often, 3000-5000 miles. Since it isn't an S-54, don't dwell too much on brand although Mobil 1 is popular. Do you track your car?

There is no single answer to your questions, IMO. If YMMV ever applied, it is to an oil question.

Terry

I can understand the brand not mattering much but are you saying any viscosity/weight as well?

[Wertles]

0-40, 5-30 or (my choice) 5-40. I use amsoil but would use any quality brand. 10-60 is specific to the S-54 engine.

[Terry F.]

No, not exactly but I think that 5-30, 10-30, 10-40, etc don't matter as much as some might think if you don't track your car and don't expose it to temp extremes. I know many will disagree and I expect that.

My supercharged car, with a 3.73 diff, runs high oil temps and I find a 5-30 runs a little cooler, but might provide less protection, idk. Also, and I could be wrong, but the main differences are at startup, when the engine is cold. Don't hammer the car when the oil isn't up to full temp.

I still believe that frequent oil changes are the key to success.

[Kram71]

Sorry I should have answered this before. I do not track the car. It is a garage queen. I only drive it around 100 miles a month. It does have a very tiny oil leak (like 2 drops a month). Not sure if its from the drain plug or the valve cover gasket.

[Tib]

I would only use "FULL SAPS" "100% Synthetic" 0,5,or10/30 or 40. I myself use Amsoil European Formula full SAPS 5-40 and change it every 6 months. (my Amsiol dealer brings my oil and filter to my work on a reoccurring every 6 month order)

Be careful when you buy the filter. Some Filter books and part store's Computers say my 2000 M roadster takes a MANN HU-925-4X and that is incorrect! It takes a MANN "HU-926-4X" NAPA tried to sell me the wrong one @ 2 different stores

[Terry F.]

Kram71,

If you only run a thousand or so per year, I would also suggest changing the oil once or twice per year and not go by mileage, like Tib suggested.

What oil do you currently run?

Terry

[krnnerdboy]

If your confused then I would guess that economical/conventional would be first priority.

You can't go wrong with
Mobil1 0-40
Castrol 0-30

Both trackable oil and best of all, available at walmart and pepboys. Walmart sells it for $25/4 quarts. Both have great track records and m1 is the recommended oil for my gt3

[z3papa]

I would only use "FULL SAPS" "100% Synthetic" 0,5,or10/30 or 40. I myself use Amsoil European Formula full SAPS 5-40 and change it every 6 months. (my Amsiol dealer brings my oil and filter to my work on a reoccurring every 6 month order)

Be careful when you buy the filter. Some Filter books and part store's Computers say my 2000 M roadster takes a MANN HU-925-4X and that is incorrect! It takes a MANN "HU-926-4X" NAPA tried to sell me the wrong one @ 2 different stores

This raises an important point, there are studies showing not all synthetics are true synthetic. Mobile 1 is not what it is perceived. Find out which oil meets these guidelines. If you cant every 3-5000 miles, it may matter less but being picky over your oil will pay big dividends in the long haul.

[Kram71]

I only have had the car for around 400 miles so I have never done a oil change. My guess is it currently has whatever oil bmw puts in it. I do not use it on a track so that will not be a factor for me. I'd like a oil I can buy some place like Walmart not one I need to order online. It sounds like 5-30 or 5-40 is normal. Now I just need to choose the brand. Another thread recommended Castrol tms synthetic.

- - - Updated - - -

If I'm reading the manual correctly by temperature it should be 15w-40 conventional or 10w-x "Special Oil".

Is "special oil" synthetic oil?

[328 Power 04]

The manual was printed at a time when synthetics were not the norm. Since then BMW has updated the info in their system. A BMW LL-01 (Long Life 01) oil is recommended. Look on the back of the jugs.

Generally these are the fully synthetic 0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15w40. You'll be safe with Mobil1 5w-40, 0w-40, or 15w-40 (cheap at Walmart).

Colder climates should use BMW LL-01 5w-30, however not many 5w-30's fit this category as they are too thin. Remember the SAE ratings are wide ranges, not actual weights. BMW needs a 5w-30 at the thick end, so most 5w-40's fit much better. ( [SCIENCE ALERT] Basically at hot oil temps, the oil has to be at least 12 cSt)


Yes, store "fully synthetics" are no longer fully lab made oils. The oil companies in the USA got away by changing the law governing the naming to sell you a cheaper oil. Power of lobbying.
Still, if you use your car casually, you won't notice a difference.

[Kram71]

The manual was printed at a time when synthetics were not the norm. Since then BMW has updated the info in their system. A BMW LL-01 (Long Life 01) oil is recommended. Look on the back of the jugs.

Generally these are the fully synthetic 0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15w40. You'll be safe with Mobil1 5w-40, 0w-40, or 15w-40 (cheap at Walmart).

Colder climates should use BMW LL-01 5w-30, however not many 5w-30's fit this category as they are too thin. Remember the SAE ratings are wide ranges, not actual weights. BMW needs a 5w-30 at the thick end, so most 5w-40's fit much better. ( [SCIENCE ALERT] Basically at hot oil temps, the oil has to be at least 12 cSt)


Yes, store "fully synthetics" are no longer fully lab made oils. The oil companies in the USA got away by changing the law governing the naming to sell you a cheaper oil. Power of lobbying.
Still, if you use your car casually, you won't notice a difference.

Thanks sop much for the explanation. Based on all the responses I'm leaning towards Mobil 1 10-40. Before this thread I was thinking Castrol 5-30. Did you mean 10-40 where I bolded your 0-40 answer?

[328 Power 04]

Thanks sop much for the explanation. Based on all the responses I'm leaning towards Mobil 1 10-40. Before this thread I was thinking Castrol 5-30. Did you mean 10-40 where I bolded your 0-40 answer?

The 0w-40 has BMW Long Life 01 rating. See here http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_1_0W-40.aspx

It would be very appropriate for your car.



Also, full lab made synthetics (if you really want to be picky) are made by Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, European Castrol Formula, to name a few. Of course, they are a little more expensive.

[Tib]

its just not the weight, and its just not if or if not its full synthetic. don't forget about the SAPS

Sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur (SAPS) comprise a significant portion of a motor oil’s additive content. Sulfated ash works to improve antioxidancy, anti-wear properties, total base number (TBN), corrosion resistance, engine cleanliness and soot-handling ability; phosphorus provides further antioxidancy, anti-wear properties and engine cleanliness.

I thought only European blends were full saps.

[poordna]

My first change was Mobil 1 0w40. I made a terrible mistake by settling for a generic NAPA filter. It was what was available on the spot without waiting a couple of days. Never again. After my next change, I put on a proper MANN filter (something like 1500mi later) my oil temps dropped by HALF. Then I read a bunch of threads in the FAQ about how Mobil was terrible, and their "synthetic" isn't actually truly synthetic...

On the next change I went to Royal Purple 0w40. My only critique/comment on that is that I probably only put 1000 or 1500 miles on it and it was already a deep deep black. It starts off purple rather than a cleaner/more translucent honey color you'll see in other oils...

Today I went to LiquiMoly 5w40. Some people on some other boards expressed concerns that 0w was really not appropriate for hot california weather PLUS hard driving. Nothing intelligent to really say about it yet but time will tell I guess.

[328 Power 04]

You know the 0w has nothing to do with heat, right?

W stands for winter, and it describes the oil's behavior in the cold setting. As in how viscous it will be at a very cold startup. Behaves like a 0 weight oil in winter. Meaning it won't be as solid. SAE ratings are confusing, and not very reliable because of the spread of viscosities under one rating.

[poordna]

You know the 0w has nothing to do with heat, right?

W stands for winter, and it describes the oil's behavior in the cold setting. As in how viscous it will be at a very cold startup. Behaves like a 0 weight oil in winter. Meaning it won't be as solid. SAE ratings are confusing, and not very reliable because of the spread of viscosities under one rating.

Yeah yeah as usual I'm researching after I've already spent money.

I was told to go to 10w40 or 10w50, I figured I'd split the difference and do 5w40.

but then the guy brings up these figures:

the 5w40 liqui moly I just put in:

Viscosity at 100 °C : 14.1 mm²/s

and the 0w40 royal purple I shitcanned



not much difference... i mean the royal purple was probably just about past its prime anyway but I do think I should have made a more drastic change.

[328 Power 04]

Yeah yeah as usual I'm researching after I've already spent money.

I was told to go to 10w40 or 10w50, I figured I'd split the difference and do 5w40.

but then the guy brings up these figures:

the 5w40 liqui moly I just put in:

Viscosity at 100 °C : 14.1 mm²/s

and the 0w40 royal purple I shitcanned



not much difference... i mean the royal purple was probably just about past its prime anyway but I do think I should have made a more drastic change.

Either way, you're putting in excellent oils, thick enough for summer months. I apologize if I sounded like I was saying you did something wrong.

I use Royal Purple's 5w-40 that has a very good viscosity at 100 deg. C. And now I have the reason why the SAE ratings are useless. Look at http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/w...I_MotorOIl.pdf , the 5w-40 is a 15.7 cst hot, while the 15w-40 is actually a thinner 14.8.

You weren't happy with it? I wonder if the darker color of oil was it cleansing previous deposits from earlier in the car?

On the other hand, you can't go wrong with Liquimoly 5w-40. It is 14.1 cSt at hot, while the 'inadequate for California summers' 0w-40 is a not so different 14.0. It would be a little thinner at startup, which is beneficial for bearing protection.

[poordna]

Either way, you're putting in excellent oils, thick enough for summer months. I apologize if I sounded like I was saying you did something wrong.

I use Royal Purple's 5w-40 that has a very good viscosity at 100 deg. C. And now I have the reason why the SAE ratings are useless. Look at http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/w...I_MotorOIl.pdf , the 5w-40 is a 15.7 cst hot, while the 15w-40 is actually a thinner 14.8.

You weren't happy with it? I wonder if the darker color of oil was it cleansing previous deposits from earlier in the car?

On the other hand, you can't go wrong with Liquimoly 5w-40. It is 14.1 cSt at hot, while the 'inadequate for California summers' 0w-40 is a not so different 14.0. It would be a little thinner at startup, which is beneficial for bearing protection.

yeah I mean and that's kind of what a trusted coworker also told me... something like "it's not like you're totally ignoring BMW's recommendations, you're in the right ballpark"

I stumbled on this package deal last night... Very tempting!

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-S52_3.2l/ES250867/

[Kram71]

I thank everyone for their replies. I learned a lot even though some were contradictary.

I went to the following websites and here is what they called for:

Mobil One 0w-40
Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-40
Quaker State Ultimate Durability Euro 5W-40 Synthetic
Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40 Full Synthetic Motor Oil
Amsoil 5w-40 or 5w-30

So now I feel confident that I have narrowed down my choices when I go to Walmart. Most of them called for 5w-40.

Does Castrol have some sort of connection or similarity to BMW oil?

Also why do many sites say 5w-40 or 5w-30 synthetic is for diesel engines?

[BIGSOOJ]

I run 5W30 Synthetic and change it every 3-5k miles. S52 here

[Kram71]

I went to Walmart today with 5 brands/viscosity oils in mind. At first I could not find any of them that matched correctly despite a huge selection. Then I found the Mobil one 0w-40. I liked that it had the BMW approved long lasting label on back that another poster had mentioned. I really only needed 1 quart but 1 quart was almost $8 so I grabbed the 5 quart jug on sale for $23.

[poordna]

wait wait wait wait

no.

you need 6.5-7 quarts

preferrably 8 for topping off until the next oil change

[Kram71]

I just need to top off for now. I will do a oil change in around 1000 miles.