E36 lock button wiring help

[hoozdman]

Can someone please help me with some simple wiring?

I am installing a lock button inside the car to lock and unlock all doors - yes I know I can just push my elbow down on the drivers door.
Mine is an older e36, I have found and run wires 24 + 25 from X13012 but have no idea how to connect these (if they're right) and power for a simple lock/unlock

I found this writeup but it doesnt seem totally relevant - maybe part of it is:

The console lock switch needs four wires going to it. Reference the schematic. Two are to light up the switch. The other two route power through the switch to the ZKE-IV module connector X13253 pin 19. You have to add the pin to connector (1 of the 5) X13253 pin 19. The ZKE-IV module is located in the area behind the glove box.


Pin 1 = Wire to ZKE-IV module X13253-19
Pin 2 = Dimmed lighting
Pin 3 = Ground
Pin 4 = Hot at all times

Switch, console lock 61 31 8 368 931 $34.00 retail
Connector 61 13 8 380 696 $0.43 retail - wow, i just rang the local dealer and this part is $6
5 each Pins 61 13 0 005 197 $1.10 retail


Here is a stock image i found of the rear of the lock button but this only has 3 wires coming out of it



Thanks

[johnf]

If you have not done so already, the first thing I would do is check: 1) that your car has a ZKE and 2) that the ZKE supports the switch and responds to a 12V pulse to pin 19:



You can apply the 12V through a 1K resistor to test that and avoid surprises should you touch the wrong pin.

I suspect you don't, and if you do, I expect it won't.

The mod becomes more challenging – but by no means impossible – if the car doesn't have a ZKE to support a central locking switch.

[hoozdman]

Thanks John, I appreciate your help

H

[MParallel]

Thanks John, I appreciate your help

H

It's a very simple schematic. I fitted mine last year. If you have a ZKE pin #19 should work. As John said, this is easy to test.

Do make sure all doors are closed while you test, otherwise nothing will happen.


Johan: how does that work by using a 1k resistor? Then you won't damage a circuit not made for +12v on its pin, while still applying 12v to a pin which needs it?

[johnf]

Johan: how does that work by using a 1k resistor? Then you won't damage a circuit not made for +12v on its pin, while still applying 12v to a pin which needs it?

You got it. The inputs don't need much current to test them so there is no need to risk offering too much. With the resistor limiting the current, you also won't blow a fuse if you accidentally touch a ground pin.