Please help with bleeding

[ticklemejoviemo]

3.0 Z3 coupe. Had front brake lines off for over a month, been very cold and eventually installed the brembo gt kit. replaced all front and rear lines with stainless. also installed stainless clutch line. used vacula vacuum bleeder to bleed all. sure enough, clutch pedal went right to floor, so i removed slave cyl. and pushed rod, now clutch feels great.

Brakes on other hand are a different story. with car running, pedal sinks right to floor. so i pumped up til i had pressure and it kinda held, but once i let off and applied again back to floor, then dsc and "brake" light would come on. so i bled again, this time i let each caliper (RR, LR, RF, LF) bleed extra long just incase.

Checked again, same deal. what gives? I dont see any visible leaks. and now I'm wondering if ABS unit could be causing the issue. I was planning on getting this thing on the road next week so any help would be TREMENDOUSLY appreciated. thanks!

[Z3MRacer]

You may need to bench bleed the master. Or hook some dummy lines to it and feed them back into the reservoir and bleed the master that way.

[ticklemejoviemo]

i was wondering if i filled my bleeder with fluid and tried pushing it from each caliper to the front, assuming that worked on the same principle as how i bled the clutch. i just wanted to see if anyone ever ran into this.

i believe bench bleeding the master is covered in the bentley man. but what do you mean in regards to the dummy lines?

[Z3MRacer]

You make temporary lines from the outlet ports and run them back into the reservoir. Then you pump the master steadily and slowly as not to create too much turbulance and air bubbles. Do this until you don't see anymore air coming from the outlet lines. This can be done with the master in the car or in a vise on the bench. Mount the master back to the booster, quickly remove the temporary lines and rehook the car lines. Then re-bleed at the calipers.

[Mr Bingley]

The problem may be that the lines drained enough for air to have made it up to the antilock brake pump. If so, it will have to be bled at a dealer where they can activate the pump remotely--this takes special software. A dealer is sure to have this capability, but many indys will as well--if they know BMW's.

[ticklemejoviemo]

ugh, thats what i'm fearing. is there ANY way that can be done without DIS, here... at my home?

[Mr Bingley]

ugh, thats what i'm fearing. is there ANY way that can be done without DIS, here... at my home?

I don't know--one of the Randy's will know--pm them.

[rf900rkw]

Noooooooooo. No PMs...

I've only triggered the ABS bleed command when replacing the ABS assembly. In those cases I've just did it; I've never tried to bleed a new block in one of our cars without so I can't say if it's possible or not. I don't use the command during normal bleeds.

On the other side, I've never tried to bleed one after leaving it sit open for that long. Vacuum caps are your friends; they keep the fluid in the pipes, not dripping in your face.

When I bleed brakes (or clutch), I use two important tools. A wrench that fits the bleeder, and a second person; one that can follow instructions. Pump the pedal smoothly four or five times, lifting your foot ALL the way off on the up stroke. Hold down (not mash), open bleeder, close bleeder, repeat. It does not matter what order you do the brakes. I normally start with the left rear so I can watch my pumper.

[BenFenner]

It does not matter what order you do the brakes. I normally start with the left rear so I can watch my pumper.

I've just swapped master cylinders and am about to replace the brake lines with stainless braided. I forgot to look up the order of bleeding the system. Is there really no recommended order?
I guess if not I'll do them right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. You know, furthest away working closer.

[lokijibber]

I've just swapped master cylinders and am about to replace the brake lines with stainless braided. I forgot to look up the order of bleeding the system. Is there really no recommended order?
I guess if not I'll do them right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. You know, furthest away working closer.

That's the order in Bentley and typically the "accepted order".

[rf900rkw]

Yes, that is the accepted order. And it would not surprise me to find Bentley parroted it. It MAY make some sense on a single circuit brake system. It makes less sense on a dual circuit system (1968 on). And makes no sense on a four channel ABS system. But you have to do all for wheels in some order, so go for it.

[BenFenner]

Got everything sorted. Once the pedal gets down a bit it is very stiff, but there's probably more travel than there should be.
I'll give it a week and then bench bleed the MC again, and the lines. No leaks as far as I could tell though, so that's good.
Thanks for the quick replies today gentlemen.