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Thread: Locking Fuel Door

  1. #1
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    Locking Fuel Door

    Is there a write up on how to remove/replace the Z3's fuel door actuator?
    I'm talking about the part that is supposed to lock/unlock the fuel door with the central locking.
    Can you do it by removing the fender liner or do you need to remove the entire metal fender?



    I searched but the mobile search function doesn't work well.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
    Is there a write up on how to remove/replace the Z3's fuel door actuator?
    I'm talking about the part that is supposed to lock/unlock the fuel door with the central locking.
    Can you do it by removing the fender liner or do you need to remove the entire metal fender?



    I searched but the mobile search function doesn't work well.
    I never knew the door can lock. It never locked on my coupe and it still doesn't. I'm interested to see what you find.

  3. #3
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    canaryM, you might not have noticed that it locks because every time you went to fill up it had already unlocked itself. I only noticed mine locks because I locked the car doors with the fuel door still open, and then tried to shut the fuel door which would not close.

  4. #4
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    locking fuel door

    Quote Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
    Is there a write up on how to remove/replace the Z3's fuel door actuator?
    I'm talking about the part that is supposed to lock/unlock the fuel door with the central locking.
    Can you do it by removing the fender liner or do you need to remove the entire metal fender?



    I searched but the mobile search function doesn't work well.
    It's easy, just remove the fender liner it's right there. Is it an issue with the actuator or is the plactic rod that extends to lock the door broken?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lil z3 View Post

    It's easy, just remove the fender liner it's right there. Is it an issue with the actuator or is the plactic rod that extends to lock the door broken?
    I'm not sure. The plastic rod is intact, and if I pull the rod out the actuator will unlock the door but not re-lock it.

    I think there's only two wires going to the actuator...(?) So that would mean both wires are good.

    I'm able to put my fingers between the fender and rubber gasket around the filler neck.
    Last edited by Codeman; 01-17-2014 at 05:59 PM.
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    The plastic rod in mine was broken when I bought the roadster, I hope it is easy to replace and not one of those parts that you have to buy a huge kit of pieces to replace that one part. I know the actuator on mine works, I just lock/unlock the passenger door with the fuel door open, I can hear and feel movement but that plastic rod is just too short (likely broke since it doesn't even make it into the backside of the slot where it would exit the body of the car and into the slot of the fuel door.)
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    I had to replace that cable when I first bought my M Coupe. I don't remember a thing about it so it must not have been too bad.
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  8. #8
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    Update: You can access the actuator by removing the wheel well liner.

    There are two wires that go to the actuator and, of course, one can disconnect them at the rear of the actuator but there's also another wire connection just inside the trunk. This is where my problem was. The wire connector had become corroded so I sprayed some electrical cleaner on it and all is well.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    canaryM, you might not have noticed that it locks because every time you went to fill up it had already unlocked itself. I only noticed mine locks because I locked the car doors with the fuel door still open, and then tried to shut the fuel door which would not close.
    Thanks BenFenner, I think you're right. I'll test it out on my coupe. This has always been a concern of mine especially when leaving it in the NYC streets for even a second.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
    Update: You can access the actuator by removing the wheel well liner.

    There are two wires that go to the actuator and, of course, one can disconnect them at the rear of the actuator but there's also another wire connection just inside the trunk. This is where my problem was. The wire connector had become corroded so I sprayed some electrical cleaner on it and all is well.
    Yes, the fuel door actuator is behind the wheel well liner; 4 screws and a lot of maneuvering to get it out and not much room to work.

    My fuel door actuator would not work remotely. If I locked the door with the key it would work and it would unlock remotely.

    So, my convoluted logic told me to replace the actuator, a real PITA and guess what, it still does not lock, BUT UNLOCKS remotely.

    Has anyone had the same problem? Does anyone have any ideas? I'm at a total loss.
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  11. #11
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    Can you tell me where the connection in the trunk is?

    Quote Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
    Update: You can access the actuator by removing the wheel well liner.

    There are two wires that go to the actuator and, of course, one can disconnect them at the rear of the actuator but there's also another wire connection just inside the trunk. This is where my problem was. The wire connector had become corroded so I sprayed some electrical cleaner on it and all is well.
    Can you tell me where the connection in the trunk is? I need to check to see if it is disconnected because I am having the same problem (Fuel Door NOT locking) Thanks.

    Edit: Here is what I found in my trunk.
    1. A disconnected connector circle in red (3-prong black connector)
    2. Cut wired (also circled in red)

    I would like to know where this connector is supposed to be plugged into. Any help appreciated.
    Last edited by JosephDominates; 02-12-2017 at 03:40 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitrebox1 View Post
    Yes, the fuel door actuator is behind the wheel well liner; 4 screws and a lot of maneuvering to get it out and not much room to work.

    My fuel door actuator would not work remotely. If I locked the door with the key it would work and it would unlock remotely.

    So, my convoluted logic told me to replace the actuator, a real PITA and guess what, it still does not lock, BUT UNLOCKS remotely.

    Has anyone had the same problem? Does anyone have any ideas? I'm at a total loss.
    Same problem here, will lock manually but not remotely. Have find out the problem?

  13. #13
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    This thread made me go look at my 98M. I had a 97 2.8 before this M, and never heard of a locking door. .......... There is no locking mechanism; no place I can see where there could be one. The door opens and closes freely regardless of locks on/off. There is a rubber cup that seems to seal the area; no holes or other signs of a missing lock. ........... It does have locking gas cap which takes the ignition key.

  14. #14
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    I was under the assumption that the gas door locked when you locked the car. I'll have to check mine when I get home.

  15. #15
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    My 1999 2.8 fuel door does not lock but there is a provision for a locking mechanism. There is a cutout in the panel that corresponds with an opening in the fuel door where a locking pin could be installed. I suspect a locking fuel door was an option or maybe a part of a package. In any case, I'd personally rather use a locking gas cap. A locking door is too easily pried open resulting in not only the loss of a tank of gas but a trashed fuel door and a scratched and dented rear fender.

    Locking fuel door 1.jpg Locking fuel door 2.jpg

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoyt Clagwell View Post
    My 1999 2.8 fuel door does not lock but there is a provision for a locking mechanism. There is a cutout in the panel that corresponds with an opening in the fuel door where a locking pin could be installed. I suspect a locking fuel door was an option or maybe a part of a package. In any case, I'd personally rather use a locking gas cap. A locking door is too easily pried open resulting in not only the loss of a tank of gas but a trashed fuel door and a scratched and dented rear fender.

    Locking fuel door 1.jpg Locking fuel door 2.jpg
    I don't have that, so not on all Z3s.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoyt Clagwell View Post
    My 1999 2.8 fuel door does not lock but there is a provision for a locking mechanism. There is a cutout in the panel that corresponds with an opening in the fuel door where a locking pin could be installed. I suspect a locking fuel door was an option or maybe a part of a package. In any case, I'd personally rather use a locking gas cap. A locking door is too easily pried open resulting in not only the loss of a tank of gas but a trashed fuel door and a scratched and dented rear fender.
    By that line of thinking you shouldn't use a locking gas cap either. The quick way to get to the gas is to just poke a hole in the plastic gas tank and bypass all the locks.
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  18. #18
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    Early models had a locking gas cap keyed to the ignition key

    Some later models had a locking fuel filler door though I am not entirely sure what models did or did not receive it. I believe all M's did, because they were the higher end model but I am not sure when that went into effect.

    My 1999 "2.3" does not even have the slot in the filler door for the locking pin. 02 M has the complete assembly and the fuel door locks when the doors are locked

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  19. #19
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    Locking door introduced in April 1999 as part of the minor facelift

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