Came across this one recently...
NO XMSN yokes in the US, only twenty-four (24) in Germany, and even with expediting the shipping, still a couple weeks out.
I assume the centering bearing is in less than ideal condition, also.
/.randy
I'll bet it's got a good sound system in it, too. It would need it to drown out that noise.
/.randy
It's the little things, like correct bolt torque that, can cause such major problems down the road. Funny how that is.
Dan "PbFut" Rose
so how many lbs of torque should we put on the guibo? also anyone try the PU style guibo? like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200934279902...84.m1423.l2649, thanks
Thanks Randy, just got my guibo off this morning, and can happily report it has no issues. Rear trunk floor doesn't look too bad either, only 2 bad welds on the right and 3-4 bad ones around the diff. ear. No cracking anywhere, but it was a real pita to remove all the insulation, etc. from the wheel houses and behind the seats. Glad I'll never have to do that again.
Same exact conditions on my old 2002 I used to have. Bolt was rubbed raw down to the last mm of life and the tranny flange had the nice bean shape as yours too. The issue I ran into was finding an impact narrow enough to fit into the flange. Ended up just grinding down an old chrome socket and hoping it wouldn't shatter. And yea as far as the sound system goes it's quite the loud obnoxious mess coming from the tranny tunnel
That is dedication right there working on New Year's Eve Randy.
Not for me, thank you; a little bit of compliance is a good thing. That may be okay for a race/track car, but I personally wouldn't put it to use on a street car__despite claims to the contrary.
Hi Don, Happy New Year!
The Coupes are a bit more of a pain than a Rdstr, but the upside will be when you get to the inside welding__A LOT more room to work! Just be sure to protect the headliner and side glass from welding and grinding sparks. 3M makes a tacking (self-adhering) treated paper barrier for just such a purpose; I used it initially, but prefer my welding blanket "tent" to protect customer cars. Same precaution about overspray mist too, though some colors are worse than others, especially the lacquer formulas.
Have fun, take your time__especially if the plastic trim bits are cold (-9* this morning in Ohio, sure am thankful to be in Florida!).
New Year's Day too, though on a different project
You know what they say, do what you love, and it doesn't feel like working! Now if I could just come to terms with the billing aspect...
+1
Rubber suspended street car engines move arouind. A lot. Rear subframe/diff units move around. Unibodies flex. The alignment and distance between the trans, diff, and driveshaft is constantly changing. The guibo absorbs these movements. If you take the flex out of the flex-disc, the movement and loads will be restrained by the transmission and diff bearings.
/.randy
Sadly this is my coupe other then a bit if noise that I thought was transmission related I had no indication of this. Glad my coupe is in good hands though! Thank you Randy!
The parts haven't come in yet, but wanted to get a head start on getting the xmsn yoke off__I knew it was going to be trouble...
While the gearbox was still in the car, I couldn't hold the yoke and loosen the nut, but only gave it a hint of an attempt. I could tell someone else had already been there, as the nut was gouged up. My IR impact wrench was having zero effect on loosening the nut, so I knew I'd have to break out the heavy artillery...
I spent five (>5) hours yesterday making a suitable tool to hold the yoke while I undid the nut. At least now I have the tool for future work__add it to the one-use tool collection!
If you want to make your own, the pictures showing the process start about halfway down this page: http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/i...H-Coupe?page=7
Start with equal parts RTA bolts (left over__and tumbled clean__from Ireland adjustable kit installs):
Mix in some milling and welding:
Apply muscle__and even with this mechanical advange, it was STILL TOO G% D*#$ TIGHT!!
Revel in the delight of success!
Since it appears that someone had been there before, do you think that a previous guibo nut was left loose and caused the damage? Someone then tried unsuccessfully to fix it, and slapped a new guibo and bolt in there or was it this set of bolts that caused the damage?
I'm pretty sure I would have given up long ago and sourced another transmission. As always, you are the man.
Last edited by Wertles; 01-06-2014 at 11:07 AM.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
Randy, did you try the West Virginia blue flame wrench?, a new seal is going in anyway, I hope?, actually I would've brazed and redrilled that hole, but I'm lazy.
I emailed with the previous owner about it and he thinks it was a BMW dealer in SC that did not replace the bolts when the guibo was replaced. I've got to check my/his records to see what was and wasn't billed. The job probably happened between 92-94k miles and the coupe had a touch over 101k now. After hearing about the PO's experiences with this dealer and work performed, I wouldn't be surprised if it was sheer laziness that had led to this.
Randy, thank you for taking the time to construct the tool and work it all out! I can't imagine what would've happened under the knife of a lesser mechanic. I'm very thankful that you caught this and we're able to work my coupe into your schedule.
Last edited by alboogiee; 01-06-2014 at 01:39 PM.
off topic but for you.
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