It was just simple layout stuff, measure from the center of the crank to the bellhousing bolt circle, do the same with the trans, then overlay the centres and mark all the holes. I made a little dummy shaft when I bolted it together for this picture that was the od of the crank and the Id of the input shaft and it lines up beautiful. Needs to be thicker for the ring gear of the flex plate to contact the starter without hitting the adapter plate then I'll build a button flywheel off that or just machine a crank adapter and run a BMW flywheel so I don't have to do quite as much machining
Made fuel rails, FAST fuel rail extrusion, machined it at work, made all the accessories line up, now just have to get the pan back from welding and mod the pickup then it's all ready to go. Probably start the adapter plate next week and then I can toss it in the shell I'll be picking up this weekend
I can't wait to see how the clutch/flywheel setup goes. Everything else is looking pretty slick.
All of the pics you can post of the adapter plate making process would be MUCH appreciated!
i wish i had enough table travel to make an adapter plate
what kind of rig are you working with?
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
I think even our smallest mill would have enough travel to do it, we have a haas vf2,vf5, and vf7, and if I get really stuck we have a challenger hbm-4 horizontal boring mill, but I don't know how to run that one so id have to ask my coworker and that sounds less fun for me.
progress is going well ... what intake is that ?
I know you said you are pretty good to fight against the "while I'm in there" thoughts but you should have really dropped a cam "while you were in there" that's all those engine needs to wake em up and make a big difference.
New year new me
That will be the shell that the v8 goes in. 318is auto with clean title and no rust for $150, not too bad.
To answer your questions, speedmaster qualifier intake, painted with some vht engine paint. Not doing a cam right now because I just want to get it driving with no issues as a stock(ish) motor. After its running and drives well, I will put a cam/ springs in it, but for now id just rather put that $1200 somewhere else. if it runs this year, it will just be a street car, so it doesn't need to make a ton of power, just sound cool and do sick burnouts.
So now I guess I'm competing with jalopi for ghetto headers.
But there's a method to my madness. I think that by Doing both like this, (and obviously cutting the pipe shorter) and putting a flange, I'll be able to build dump tubes that clear the steering shaft and the starter with no issues. Atleast that's the theory. We'll find out for sure when I first test fit it.
Whoa, that really IS ghetto fabulous... I LOVE IT!!
It actually doesn't look like it will work badly at all to me.
GIT-R-DUN Canuck style
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Oil pan is done! Made a copy of the improved racing cooler manifold and tossed some old -10 lines on. Will be doing a bulkhead at the front of the motor and then running short lines to the cooler, just to make for ease of install/removal.
Adapter plate is being burned tomorrow, probably start machining it this weekend depending what's in the machine at the end of Friday.
So new car thrash weekend is here,
Engine out,
Interior/ dash/ auto shifter/ auto pedals out.
Adapter plate template
Chunk of burned steel
Chunk of wood bolted to chunk of steel.
Beginning to look like a thing
And set the motor in to see if things will work. So, unfortunately my ghetto headers won't work, they hit the steering shaft on the 4th runner and the only remedy is to mount it super high (can fit a 2x4 between pan and crossmember) and if I do that then I'd have to cut the hood to clear the throttle. Sounds gay so I'll do something else and make my own headers. Other then that, tons of room for activities! Even with truck accessories I still have plenty of room between the rad and the pulleys so that's atleast 1 win for today.
can you get me some shots of the driver's side of the bay and clearance to the valve cover? I'm trying to plan for when I do this lol. Block huggers won't work for you?
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Great progress!! Two questions for you about your adapter plate:
1) How thick is it?
2) what are the two very bottom holes for, bottom two holes of the T-56 bellhousing? I'm used to looking at a TH400 bellhousing currently that has nothing down there.
That had me rolling. Thank you!
They might but it's super hard to tell if they're going to be tight enough on the rear primary from pictures and I don't really want to spend a couple hundred dollars on a gamble...
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Right now it's 1-1/4" thick, just because I can always take material off but it's way harder to put it back on. It will end up being milled as much as possible so it's not so bulky when I get closer to an end product. 2 holes at the bottom are for ls oil pan, th400 is built for a small block Chevy so they only have the top half of the bellhousing holes
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Jk, just ordered block hugger headers, we'll see how much better they don't fit lol.
jeez, i figured you'd be making that plate out of aluminum, not steel. what's the estimated finished weight? 30lbs?
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Why not just get the CX headers made to fit that chassis?
That's still a $350 usd more expensive option then what I ended up buying so we'll see if this pans out first
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