Spark plug torque spec is 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lbs)!!!

[ishcan]

Seriously, don't over-torque your spark plugs! Somewhere in the history of this car someone over-torqued the spark plugs. Then, someone else (could have been the same PO) decided that the spark plugs were too tight and changed 4 of 6! Luckily some PB Blaster and my smooth hand were able to remove the plugs without taking the threads with them and all is well in the world again (and all the plugs are the same type and age).

Avert your eyes (yes that's broken insulator!):

[PorscheH6]

Yeah, I'd say those were due.

[ishcan]

Definitely. And it looks like I have a valve cover gasket job to do soon.

[richinvan]

Well, that could have been a LOT worse!

[roadsterred]

You were lucky! Unfortunately I was not when I recently worked on a VW Jetta 2.0. While attempting to remove the sparkplug from cylinder #4, the plug broke off at the base leaving the threaded portion behind. Fortunately I was able to remove the threaded portion using a four-cornered easy-out.

Per VW instructions, the threads on the new sparkplugs were coated with copper-based anti-seize before being installed. Steel threads in an aluminum head is a bad combination unless the copper-based anti-seize is used.

[Binjammin]

You were lucky! Unfortunately I was not when I recently worked on a VW Jetta 2.0. While attempting to remove the sparkplug from cylinder #4, the plug broke off at the base leaving the threaded portion behind. Fortunately I was able to remove the threaded portion using a four-cornered easy-out.

Per VW instructions, the threads on the new sparkplugs were coated with copper-based anti-seize before being installed. Steel threads in an aluminum head is a bad combination unless the copper-based anti-seize is used.

The funny thing is that it was a non-issue until platinum plugs came out. Before that a set of plugs would last 25-30k, and you'd replace them. Now you have plugs that will do well over 100k and still function. Most manufacturers have service procedures now to remove the plugs before 50k, lube the threads, and reinsert the plugs, to keep them from permanently corroding into the head.

[whiskychaser]

You were lucky! Unfortunately I was not when I recently worked on a VW Jetta 2.0. While attempting to remove the sparkplug from cylinder #4, the plug broke off at the base leaving the threaded portion behind. Fortunately I was able to remove the threaded portion using a four-cornered easy-out.

Per VW instructions, the threads on the new sparkplugs were coated with copper-based anti-seize before being installed. Steel threads in an aluminum head is a bad combination unless the copper-based anti-seize is used.

I broke the plug off at the base of a brand new NGK plug when intalling it in her old E30. NGK were quick to confirm what size of reverse tap I needed. I did wonder how they knew so quickly - a fault with the materials they now use? Not that it is right, but I have never used a torque wrench on a plug in 40+ years.

(For those in the UK, you may now whistle the Hovis theme)