S54 fan delete and Spal puller install

[felonious monk]

I searched and searched. Now my head is spinning. Found plenty of info but none pertaining to the S54 MZ3.

I am thinking of replacing the factory engine driven fan with a 16" low profile Spal puller; a bit of preventative maintenance, if you will. Will probably retain the factory auxiliary fan. I have a E36 electric fan conversion fan kit at my disposal.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...kit-p1450.aspx

I am guessing the Spal harness and temp switch will not work on the S54...?

Looking for definitive information on how to do this. Hoping some of you S54 owners might have done it already.

[Mr Bingley]

Zionsville will sell you their S54 Super competition shroud,Spal, wiring and instructions--it would be the easiest and best option, but also the most expensive.

[Z-Thrizzle]

I may not be of much help since I have an S52 but I'm using a separate unit to power and control the electric fan. The speed of the fan will vary based on the temps.
http://automotive.flex-a-lite.com/ac...ories.html?p=2

The unit will get it's temperature reading from either a sensor placed between the fins in the radiator or directly in a radiator hose. Though to be precise in setting it up when the fan will turn on, you'll need to know the temperature of the coolant in or going into the radiator.

[Chuck Norris]

Maybe you could ask this guy... I asked a similar question a while back and here is the reply he gave me...

Good day sir, I have a few questions fot you.

1- Would your mapping for the S54 MZ3 void my sport mode mod. I have already done?
2- If yes, would it be possible to use the input from that mod. to switch back and forth between the stock map and your's?(I guess the DME doesn't have room for 2 different maps)
3- Does the DME have unused outputs that you could tap in to control an electric fan?

Thanks.

Alex

1: No. There are 4 options for the sport mode button. I will retain whatever you have selected, unless you would like it changed. The four modes are Comfort always on, Sport always on, Start in last mode selected, and start in Comfort Always.

Have you installed the sport button into your Z3?

2. If you have a button, you can have the option the M3s have of sport/comfort. if not, then the only option is to utilize one map. The DME does not have room for two different maps, but the sport button is used to manipulate the throttles..

The DME does have an electric fan output that can be utilized. I have never checked to see if this is active on the Z3, or if the radiator has a fan switch in the side of it. Either way, the answer is yes, and I can program it to activate at whatever temps you wish.

For quicker communication, please email me at bret@technicamotorsports.com

Thanks!

[SpeakfortheMind]

You should be able to just tap into the signal wire going to the fan relay already in the car for the pusher fan in front, and use the new spal relay. Check out the ETM to find which wire to use. This will make both fans turn on together. I think the s54 radiator still has a fan switch (temp sensor) in the radiator, but I don't know for sure.

For my install I used a full size Spal puller connected to the power that would normally be going to the front fan using the bmw relays (removed the front pusher) and used the lower temp fan switch and mishimoto radiator, but this was in a 1999.

[rf900rkw]

Interesting.

The wiring diagrams show the S54 using the same fan control as the M/S52 cars, yet ETK shows it using the same fan assembly as the M54 cars. No matter, in either case it's a two speed fan with more than enough capacity to keep the engine and A/C happy. Unless you have a specific reason to remove the original pusher (can you say intercooler?), I see no reason for a Spal in parallel. Toss that mechanical fan on the top shelf, install an 80/88 fan switch, and be happy.



Edit:

I just looked at the fan kit link. It zip-ties the fan directly to the radiator core. This will be a large downgrade compared to the stock Aux fan.

[SpeakfortheMind]

Many people including myself have run with only the stock pusher fan and a lower temp switch. Add a bottle of water wetter to the system too. I decided to remove the front fan to fit an oil cooler.

[felonious monk]

Interesting.

The wiring diagrams show the S54 using the same fan control as the M/S52 cars, yet ETK shows it using the same fan assembly as the M54 cars. No matter, in either case it's a two speed fan with more than enough capacity to keep the engine and A/C happy. Unless you have a specific reason to remove the original pusher (can you say intercooler?), I see no reason for a Spal in parallel. Toss that mechanical fan on the top shelf, install an 80/88 fan switch, and be happy.



Edit:

I just looked at the fan kit link. It zip-ties the fan directly to the radiator core. This will be a large downgrade compared to the stock Aux fan.

I won't be using the zip-ties. I will be using a mount from the-fan-man.com.

[rf900rkw]

While the solid mounts will be sturdier, they do not address the problem, and may even make it worse. For effective cooling, the fan needs to move air evenly across the entire matrix. To this end, the shroud and sealing is far more important than the CFM of the fan. This is why I think it's hard to beat the factory aux fan setup, as long as all the ducts, shields, and seals are still in place.

[felonious monk]

Long story short...

The car was in a fender bender a year ago. No structural damage but the radiator had to be replaced. Because of the car's age (regardless of condition in the insurance's eyes) a Veleo "OE" radiator was used instead of the OEM Behr. I don't trust the Valeo and will be swapping it with a new Behr. The belts are also due, so I figured while I'm in there I might as well remove the factory clutch fan and eliminate another common point of failure. You can call it mission creep, or preventative maintenance. This why I am inquiring about the Spal fan install. I will be keeping the aux fan for now.

The solid fan mounts from the the-fan-man.com are designed to locate the fan as close to the core as possible while using solid mounts. I've visited their facilities, fans are not only their business. It's just a name they use for their e-commerce site. They are actually a custom radiator manufacture, like Zionsville, for hot rods and high performance domestics (like Corvette). The owner expressed strong interest in supporting the BMW side of the market, but just doesn't have badwidth at the moment.

Anyway, I will also be using the seal that comes with the Spal. Sealing and getting maximum flow from it should not be an issue.

[Mr Bingley]

While the solid mounts will be sturdier, they do not address the problem, and may even make it worse. For effective cooling, the fan needs to move air evenly across the entire matrix. To this end, the shroud and sealing is far more important than the CFM of the fan. This is why I think it's hard to beat the factory aux fan setup, as long as all the ducts, shields, and seals are still in place.

Long story short...Anyway, I will also be using the seal that comes with the Spal. Sealing and getting maximum flow from it should not be an issue.

The seal and max cooling effect rf900 is talking about is the seal around the fan shroud surrounding the perimeter of the radiator core, and thereby allowing the fan to produce a low pressure zone drawing air through the entire core of the radiator, not just a circle the size of the fan. Sealing between the Spal and the radiator will produce only the latter effect. This is why I recommended the Zionsville fan shroud for the S54 radiator in an earlier post. Now, if the Fan Man's solid mount kit includes a shroud extending to the edge of the radiator core, then it is a fine solution to that problem. But I believe that rf900's point is a valid one--it's not just the fan, but the fan and shroud system that produces maximum cooling of the radiator core.

[dcrothers]

The seal and max cooling effect rf900 is talking about is the seal around the fan shroud surrounding the perimeter of the radiator core, and thereby allowing the fan to produce a low pressure zone drawing air through the entire core of the radiator, not just a circle the size of the fan. Sealing between the Spal and the radiator will produce only the latter effect. This is why I recommended the Zionsville fan shroud for the S54 radiator in an earlier post. Now, if the Fan Man's solid mount kit includes a shroud extending to the edge of the radiator core, then it is a fine solution to that problem. But I believe that rf900's point is a valid one--it's not just the fan, but the fan and shroud system that produces maximum cooling of the radiator core.

+1
I use this Zionsville Fan/shroud combo on the s54 rad. with aux fan delete. It's great. It really pulls some air when it sucks up tight to the rad.
As for attching the shroud to the rad. It can be drilled then bolted by the upper lip of both units. Be sure to do the drilling before your install.
Then just zip tie the bottom two corners.
One area of concern with the shroud resevoir is that the hose outlet is set too far to the interior of the bay. It leaves very little clearance for the hose going past the AC pulley. I check it frequently for any sign of rubbing. I plan to attach a goose neck hose there next time i change my fluid.

[felonious monk]

Is this it? http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...code/AASET.htm

Looking at the prices, it is seriously feeling like mission creep. Plus, I don't see an application for '01-'02.

Does the expansion tank replace the factory tank or is it to be used in addition to factory? I will probably retain the aux fan for now. Don't feel like dismantling the front of the car to remove it. So, I'm looking at the 2 speed option and I see the price in the description is lower than price in the pull down menu, a typo?

[dcrothers]

Yep That's it. Give them a call. They are real easy to work with. Yes it replaces the oem reservoir. Ask them if the tank outlet can be moved closer to the shroud to creat more clearance at the ac pulley.

[rf900rkw]

An S54 shroud would not have the tank. You're right, I don't see one on the site, except for the one in that super-comp kit. If you want to go that route, a phone call will answer questions on if they can do a S54 version. But if you keep the stock aux fan, then none of this is really needed.

[felonious monk]

Now you're saying I don't need the shroud if I keep the aux fan? Confused.

My car is not a track car. In fact, it doesn't get driven often. I just want to remove the clutch fan and reduce one ticking time bomb from the car since I will be working in the area.

As for cooling efficiency, I would think a fan of any kind and shroud would only come into play in stop and go traffic... which I do see from time to time. I would think the-fan-man mounts and the greater flow of the 16" Spal should be sufficient?

[rf900rkw]

We kinda got focused on the shroud bit, but back in my original post it was said that with the Aux fan, the Spal really isn't needed at all. My wife has been running her M54 coupe that way for years as a DD in what probably is close to the same ambient temp climate (if a bit wetter).

[dcrothers]

I ran my aux fan alone for a long time. Stop and go traffic was no problem. That was with the original s52 rad.
I would still be tempted to put a puller fan in just for back up.
I went to s54/zionsville/spal/ aux delete after a front ender with a deer. I even changed the power steering cooling line to the e36 compact design.

[felonious monk]

Okay... thanks for the input all. I think I'll stay the course and proceed with the curved 16" Spal I have, the 80/88 switch and aux fan. With the 16" puller mounted right up against the radiator, it can't be worse than stock.

And, dcrothers, you are right. It does get over 100 here in SoCal. The puller would be a good insurance policy.

[E.Hands]

So how did this work out over the summer? Was the AC output the same? How about the extra amperage draw from the second fan?

[crashgordan]

Also curious.

[Cloudbase]

Also curious. This is on my list too.

[khammack]

I have had the Spal fan in my S54 for about two years now. The only issue I have with it is that if I run the AC on high for more than about 15 or 20 minutes the water temp goes up. I suspect the front fan isn't kicking into high speed, but since, if I just turn the thermostat up, so the knob is about horizontal (still getting plenty of cold air), the water temp stays solid at straight up, so it hasn't been high on my radar to investigate the problem.