Had a bit of time to spare this weekend, so I figured I'd tackle the glove box sag kit.
An hour later, my back hurts and my glovebox is dangling, half-mangled, wedged onto something in the center tunnel / center console.
I can't for the life of me get it out!!! Is there a video of this posted somewhere? What am I missing, is there something different about my 2001? Should I have removed the kickpanel? At this rate, I'm worried about being able to re-install it properly afterwards, even if I can finally wedge it out...
glovebox.JPG
I had a similar problem. Found that you have to get the right side past the metal support then the console side will come lose...at least it did on mine anyway
Find the glove box fix threads and read them. I recall that when I did mine, there was a trick about how you had to angle it out but I don't remember what it was. I'll lok around and If i find it will re-post. I know having that informatiom made it pretty easy. How about that for not a lot of help.
You sure you can't get the euro glove box?
I would remove the anti-submarine plate and that will keep it from falling apart all over again.
What a total piece of shit the US glove box is.
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Like:
http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/06/0429...x/glovebox.pdf
And the Footwell Light Instruction here is even more informative about removing the glovebox:
http://www.leatherz.com/techinstructions.htm
- - - Updated - - -
If he can remove the metal plate, he will have the lightness of the Euro glove box without the cost.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1933474-glove-box-fix
LOL... I have removed the glovebox 3 times and yes its the worst design ever. You have to angle, slide, and pull hard to get it out. The air vent attached to the lower left side will probably break off in the process. Luckily it goes back in easier that coming out, but is still a pain.
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1995 BMW 540i 6 Spd
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2013 135i MSport Cabrio DCT
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2000 BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster MSport Impala Brown
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1995 BMW 530iA Artic Silver
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Would these instructions from the Footwell Light install link in Msg #6 have prevented that? The instructions do not mention doing damage.
- - - Updated - - -It is best to close the glovebox for this operation... To remove the glovebox, tip the outboard (right) side down. Lift up as much as possible on the inboard (left) side. The right rear corner of the glovebox interior will collide with a sheet metal support to the right of the glovebox. The glovebox is slightly flexible and you will have to bend it as required to clear the bracket. It is important to lift up on the left side so that the left edge of the glovebox trim and clear the right edge of the center console. It is not necessary to bend the edge of the center console.
My 1997 box was not sagging to the point of a visible "smile", but was loose enough to rattle. I got the same kit, but first tried sticking on felt pads to take out the play. That eliminated the play and the rattle, so I am no hurry to install my kit.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psdbc5a818.jpg
Last edited by Vintage42; 05-06-2013 at 02:27 PM.
Mine was sagging a bit. I simply removed the huge piece of metal and bent the sagging piece back into shape by hand. This did not require removal. It sits perfect now and has ever since I did the work. I don't load the glove box full of stuff. I think those kits are silly, it's just a piece of metal. I need to find a fix for something where people buy a strip of metal from me for $30. Where was I when the cardboard car shade was invented?
The PDF was what I followed originally - hardly any detail in there. Thanks for the LeatherZ footwell lighting DIY, that one at least gave a little more guidance. I was afraid to pull too hard and break the glovebox - I was already using a ton of force (by my standards) and already scratched up a trim piece on the center console
When the LeatherZ refers to the "right-rear corner of the glovebox interior", is it the "rear" of the car (therefore, the "front" of the glovebox) or does he mean the far inside corner of the glovebox (which would be the "front" of the car") ?
I want to get the glovebox out not just for the sag fix, but also to check up on the alarm.. The previous owner deactivated the CompuSTAR Pro and I want to turn it back on. I want my keyless entry back!
To me, if I was removing the glovebox and looking into it, those words would apply to the glovebox and not the car. "Right-rear corner of the glovebox interior" to me would refer to the rear of the glovebox and would not refer to the car.
But I have not removed the glovebox. From what you can see and do, you can judge better than me what those words mean.
I finally got around to installing the sag fix kit that I had bought six months ago. I was in no hurry because my sag and rattle stopped when I took out the zipper case full of manuals, and put felt bumpers on the door.
I downloaded and read the instructions from the vendor:
http://www.schneebergerdesigns.com/help/z3glovebox.pdf
And the beginning of the instructions on Footwell Lights was helpful in removing the glovebox:
http://www.leatherz.com/techinstructions.htm
Removing the glovebox is difficult mainly because you can't see and understand what is holding it to the console. Pulling straight out is no good. As LeatherZ indicates, you must pull down the right side first. What it should also say is there are two big screwhole tabs on the left side of the box that stick down behind the console panel, and you must rotate the right side of the box way down, far enough to rotate the tabs on the left side out over the top of the panel. Think of rotating the glovebox 90 degrees clockwise, and the tabs will be freed.
1 Removing glovebox.jpg
The glovebox door latch is held by a thin stamped spring steel bar which is not intended to carry a heavy load on the door, which is what carries the contents of the glovebox. The sag kit is a thick metal bar that is bolted on top of the thin bar, using bolts and nuts instead of screws.
2. OE door support.jpg4. Fix bar.jpg
I did not end up installing the sag kit for several reasons. One of the kit bolts was too short, none of the kit bolts screwed easily into the screw retainers, messing up their ends for putting on the nuts, the center two notches in the bar were not perfectly located, if you crack the plastic face plate by over tightening bolts on each side of the latch, the nutted bolts mean you will have to remove the box to replace it, as opposed to just unscrewing screws; and mainly -- removing the knee plate simply made the sag bar unnecessary.
The knee plate is a crash protection item located inside the door, a heavy 2 pound weight trying to rotate freely around the hinge point with every bump, stressing the latch and deflecting the thin metal bar into a sag. It must have been added to US cars after the glovebox support and latch were designed.
5. Knee plate.jpg6 Knee plate constr.jpg
The knee plate is accessed by removing two screws on each side of the door and splitting the door open. The plate is screwed into four threaded plastic mounts on the inner side of the door, and is so heavy that it had broken all four mounts. The plate was loose inside the door.
The glovebox without the plate in the door is almost weightless, so I discarded the plate and put the glovebox back in without the sag kit. Sag kit will go on eBay with new bolts and no reserve.
See also http://s49.photobucket.com/user/vint...%20Glove%20Box
Update: Even though it did not sag or rattle, my glove box door used to jiggle in constant motion when going over rough-patched or bumpy pavement. With the 2 lb. plate removed, the door does not jiggle any more, has no motion to it, is rock steady.
Last edited by Vintage42; 02-02-2020 at 09:11 AM. Reason: Original post on removal had reversed right and left.
+1^
In doing a install of an alarm system I also removed the huge steel plate from the glove box. I also did not install the no sag kit. (one missing nut and a short bolt and the poor location of the center slots)
Now I have to slam the glove box to get it to close and it makes no noise and no smile 100% better. I also think with the removal of the 2lb plate the kit is unnecessary.
Ive got a glovebox thats already reinforced, if anybody wants it.
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Removal of the heavy plate makes the reinforcement unnecessary. Also, the installation of the reinforcement kit will likely break the plastic latch cover. And because the kit replaces the screws that originally held the cover with bolts and nuts, the glovebox will have to be removed to replace the plastic cover.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps6518c214.jpg
Zoupe 6, or anybody else.............How do you remove the anti-submarine plate?.......Thanks in advance.
I used a small ratcheting driver (right-angle) with a phillips bit to remove the four screws (two on each side of glove box lid, inside edges) after removing the latch assembly from the inside of the lid. Having a tool to get into the limited space and unscrew those helps a lot. Once the front panel is off you will see how the plate is fastened to it. Very easy, and the existing latch plate supports the lid just fine. Had to bend the existing latch plate back in place once the excessive weight was removed, but that was easily done with thumb/hand pressure.
Can the metal plate be removed without removing the entire glovebox?
Paul
Yes it can, just open your glove box an follow directions by dkindig above.
I only had the one short bolt and misaligned center slots, which was just one factor in not using the kit. With the removal of the metal plate, and the relocation of the heavy zipper case full of manuals to the rear console storage compartment, the glove box holds glove and sunglasses with no sag, smile, or rattles.
That metal plate caused the lid to rattle up and down and side to side. When I bought the car last fall, going over bumps produced a cacophony of rattles, mostly in the glove box, but some of which appeared to be in the passenger door. Those must have been the sideways rattle of the 2-lb glove box lid. After removal of the metal plate from the lid, the car is rock solid silent.
The glove box for my car is missing the four screws on the inside. I am not sure what's keeping it together. Don't wanna mess with getting the plate out unless I have a way to get it back together. Anyone know the part number for the screws or the thread size?
realoem.com is an invaluable resource. Plug in your VIN and it will give you links to part numbers for essentially every part in your car.
Here is a link from when I drilled down to the glovebox assembly: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_2364 (I'm working on mine, so I needed this info anyway).
I'd guess the screws you desire are item 4 in the diagram, but there are other possibilities. These screws (#4) screw into a clip (#3 in diagram). If those clips are missing, you'll have to remove the box to replace. Once you go that far, you'd be wise to install a reinforcement piece as describe in the earlier posts.
Had an interesting problem that ultimately was related to glove box sag in my 1998 M Roadster. Glove box always sagged. Had to replace my AC evaporator which required removal of the glove box. Evaporator replacement no problem. Some months later had intermittent malfunction of drivers side window. Would leave for work and after first turn, window would go down. Put it back up and a few miles later would just go down. Took door apart at least 3 times trying to find electrical problem with window. Then one day sitting at light, looked at my glove box and noticed bad sag. Thought I needed to fix this but meanwhile did not want to have it sag more, so at light decided to remove manuals to prevent further sag. Leaned over and opened glove box and guess what, window went down. Tried a couple of other times and same thing. End of story, sagging glove box impacted on connector to compartment comfort control module that sits right behind glove box. Fixed glove box, no further window problem. Go figure. Hope this helps some other poor souls trying to diagnose z3 window gremlins
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