I have just bought a Clutch Stop for my z3 after noticing the clutch length was a bit long. I know you can't adjust the length any other way.
But what I did notice right from when I got in my zed is that when I press the clutch in my foot would catch the side of the dead pedal rest to the side of it. You can see in the pic where my foot has been catching on the side, I've grown used to placing my foot so that it's on the pedal a little differently to miss that dead pedal rest.
Only after buying the Clutch Stop did I go to look where it has to be installed, then I noticed that the clutch actually goes to the side of the stopper not even hitting it at full length which is a bit longer than I photographed. Seems that my clutch pedal is misaligned, going off to the side like that.
Any way to adjust the clutch pedal side to side or is it just bent arm to the pedal?
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Sounds like the pivot bushing is shot, or the pivot pawl is bent. Or, maybe even the clutch pedal arm is bent.
My low mileage(24,850)98 m roadster did the exact same thing. I repurposed a flanged washer from a shock with a proper sized bolt and nut. As far as the bushing being worn, maybe....I shift alot.
You can buy aftermarket clutch pedal bushings made from Delrin that are more durable. They are also solid instead of split like the plastic ones. You can also buy a steel clutch pedal from Mason Engineering. It's not a real fun job. I would seriously consider removing the seat first. It's only 4 bolts. I replaced the clutch master cylinder while I was there, but actually that was the reason I was there.
+1. How much play does your pedal have side to side? If it is significant, you have worn out pedal bushings. Replace them with aftermarket delrin ones, not OEM. Not very likely, but your pedal could be bent. 98 times out of 100, new aftermarket bushings will fix the problem. I have a pedal that does the same thing. My temporary fix was buying this
http://leatherz.com/Merchant5/mercha...3_Transmission
and spraying the current OEM bushings with lube to stop the squeak. Actually replacing the bushings is time consuming and requires flexibility that I don't quite possess at this time. With the new stop and lube, I am very happy. Some day when I am bored, I will attempt to change those things.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
Ok there is side to side movement,so I will repalce the bushings looks like a fun project!
I have seen a couple of youtube vids seems most bmws are the same or similar for anyone following along here are the links to the vids replacing the bushings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oFud4xKXIk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yr6gLsi5ao
I have source out Rogue Engineering Delrin Clutch Arm Bushings
http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogu.../CLU-BUSH.html
another has Bronze ones but they have suspect payment procedures that I ain't gunna do!
'Oilite Bronze' Clutch Pedal Bushings
http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/E46-...Zcltchbsh.html
Bronze looks good but I get the Rogue Engineering Delrin Clutch Arm Bushings and get the job done!
Thanks
Edit:::- after looking at the postage for these two sites I could make them here for half the price of the shipping(shipping is like 100 bucks!)
I found the bronze ones on ebay for 50 bucks total shipped, still a rip off when I can get bigger items shipped for about $10 on other products from the USA.
No one seems to do them in the AU other than oem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Self-Oil...item1c31bd3156
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I just replaced my shifter bushings with the bronze style..i didn't remove the seat but I'm skinny with long monkey arms and took about 2 hours. I could probably do it in less than an hour tho now knowing what I'm doing
Yes, real fun job!
The pedal is a composite material, so not much chance of it bending (brake pedal is steel__probably a legal requirement, at least here in the US...)
Comparing the OE bushing with the ones that Ron Stygar used to provide__custom fitted and reamed to sized__lubed and ready for assembly.
+1 for Ron Stygar bushing.
When I put a longer clutch stop in it was also miss aligned I simply adjusted the stop (bent it over) it was quite easy.
What is really annoying me is not that it's missing the stop, it's that I have my little toe on the pedal so that I miss that dead rest pedal on the side. My other concern was if I put in the clutch stop at it's current location the pedal might catch there and stay down while driving!
@Randy Forbes Thanks for the photo made me realize I don't have a light, added to my to do list for today.
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Almost definitely the bushings. I changed mine as well, once you move the junction box thing with all the wires to the left of the pedal it's relatively easy.
Mods: Remus 76mm exhaust, CDV delete, ASA AR1 18in staggered wheels, Turner 12 mm spacers, custom red tails, Kenwood deck/Sirius/BT/USB, ZHP knob, Redline boot, LeatherZ armrest, Amsoil all around, red needles, Akebono Euro brake pads, 34k original miles!
Just finished the job with my new brass bushings I don't know about the Delrin ones but the brass ones sure are a tight fit( I didn't even know that I could swear in German until trying to slide the pedal on the shaft), installed the clutch stop and feels good. The bushings sure straighten it all up and it hits the stop on target. I did have to loosen the whole bracket that the brakes and clutch are on to remove the pedal as the is lump in firewall that prevents the clutch sliding off. When this plate is tighten to the back it does have ever so slightly the ability to rotate just a little but enough to make a difference in the alignment of the clutch very minor though. Didn't remove the seats, pretty uncomfortable job but done.
PS... there is a bracket over to the side that is for the interior to screw onto if you remove that on it's 2 bolts you'll probably bleed a lot less than me.
ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐl ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ
I have been planning to address my sloppy clutch pedal too. I was planning on installing the Rogue clutch pedal bushings, but I also get annoyed with the long pedal travel.
Edit, I don't care so much about the clutch stop that stops the clutch when pushing it in, but rather, shortening the travel of the clutch so its more even with the other pedals at rest. Anyone have any solutions for that?
Last edited by stamosenvy; 04-25-2013 at 10:41 AM.
- bill -
The steel clutch pedal from Mason Engineering does that. I have the steel clutch pedal, Delrin bushings, and the oversize UUC clutch stop. The clutch now feels about right and the pedal is the same height as the brake pedal.
There's a ton of different bushings. I'll be doing this soon as well. Not sure which one I'll be using.
I got the Rogue stop from LeatherZ, and thought I would lube the bushings while under the dash.
I removed the easy 2-fastener black lower panel, but could not see up to the bushings. Do I need to remove the colored upper panel to spray the bushings?
I installed the clutch pedal stop, but the engine would not start, and I had to screw the stop down so flush with the floor that I hardly feel any difference in travel. I didn't see the adjustable interlock switch between the pedal and ignition; is it also so far up that the colored upper panel must be removed to access the switch?
I removed that first panel and the one above it too (mines black) to get to the bushing and they are way up in there. My clutch stop is out about a 1 1/4 inch out from the floor and hit high on the pedal it's in a good spot, stops lots of travel so don't know what's going on with yours!
I don't see how putting in a clutch stop would make the car not start.
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New clutch pedal is about 30$....that's all you need. Over time the plastic wears out and shifts towards the left. Common issue on late 90s bimmers.
///
Good to know I will have to remove the upper panel to access the clutch pedal bushing to put some lube on it.
The engine will not start unless the clutch pedal is depressed, to prevent the possibility starting off in gear. There must be a switch on the pedal that is activated when the pedal is depressed, and it must be adjustable. My pedal does not activate this switch until it is pressed close to the floor, so I need to adjust this switch to allow the new clutch stop to work. I guess I will see the switch with the upper panel removed.
Last edited by Vintage42; 05-04-2013 at 03:04 PM.
There is a switch I did remove to get the pedal out, it has the brake switch on it too.
Mines a 98 2.8l and I don't have to have the clutch down to start.
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If you don't depress the clutch pedal when starting, obviously you normally start the motor in neutral, but could you also use the starter with the motor in gear? That can be exciting.
My 2006 Scion is like my 1997 Z3, in that the clutch pedal must be depressed to operate the starter.
Yes mine will turn over when in gear without the clutch down,there ain't a switch on mine that does that, I have been in manuals all my life, it's just habit but I did try it to see if it would turn over in gear and it does. I have only had that on heavy machinery that the clutch will have to down and friends have told me their little eco cars do too. It just seems odd that a 97 would have that and a 98 doesn't.... unless mines broke.
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