im a sheet in the streets
B35 Swap: The Final Stretch
Continuing posts in my old thread were off-topic to the title, so I'll continue here.
Sent the car to a shop to fix the engine alignment issue. They installed another oil pan among a few other things, so now the oil pan doesn't touch subframe, and the engine aligns properly.
And now I've just installed the new shifter and am preparing the driveshaft, when I encountered a few things:
1. Shop said driveshaft was not put together correctly, and that there are two white dots on the driveshaft that must line up in order for it to be balanced properly. Does anyone know how to loosen the rear end of the driveshaft so I can adjust this?
2. That oil filter housing mishap I had? Still irking me. The B35 E32 housing hits the ABS unit since it stucks up, but the down-facing housing from the B34 hits the custom engine mount adapters. Main question: Has anyone heard of "extensions" for the oil filter reservoir? A buddy of mine said he'd heard the E28 crowd talking about something like it. If this doesn't work, I may have to either relocate the ABS, or delete it completely.
Many thanks again. I wish I had the time to contribute as much to this forum as I ask from it, but as soon as my car situation is done with, I'll be able to begin contributing some more.
Last edited by volac; 12-08-2012 at 10:31 PM.
Member
1.) remove the driveshaft bolts on the flex disc. Remove the Center Support bearing mounting bolts. pull front half of driveshaft out and realign. Put back in reverse order. Make sure to preload the Center Support Bearing when tightening it back up.
2.) Never dealt with that issue, sorry. There are oil filter relocation kits you can buy. Search on mye28. Also, I believe a lot of the turbo e30 m20 guys use this setup.
When your enemy is making a mistake, do not interrupt him.
Member
wow, computer on the fritz.
Last edited by yert315; 12-09-2012 at 12:05 AM.
When your enemy is making a mistake, do not interrupt him.
im a sheet in the streets
Haha! Don't worry, it's the server's fault. Happens all the time.
I'll try the driveshaft method out in the morning. However, I don't know what you mean by "preloading the center support bearing".
Will consider the relocation kits. They're not cheap, but at this point I'm paying nearly anything to get this car running again.
Member
Preload the center bearing:
Push the bearing toward the front of the car then tighten down the mounting nuts/bolts.
When your enemy is making a mistake, do not interrupt him.
im a sheet in the streets
Another problem I encountered; I don't think I can use the oil filter housing off the B34, as the channels within don't really match up. Does anyone know if they're compatible with the B35 block? Might be a bit easier since I'd just need to get a little extension machined by a local shop.
Edit: Don't B35 E24s have a downward-facing oil filter housing? Maybe I can use one of those...
Here are the pics of the differences:
Are these interchangeable? Or do I have to go with the B35 housing? It seems like it wouldn't make a difference, since the extra "cell" in the B35 housing one doesn't lead anywhere. I filled it with water and it didn't drain into anywhere.
Gotcha, thanks so much!Originally Posted by yert315
Last edited by volac; 12-09-2012 at 04:29 PM.
Old School Punk
Yes the b35 e24 oil filter housing faces down.
im a sheet in the streets
I've figured out the oil filter housing mishap. Here's the explanation for anyone in the future who does this swap.
Basically, that extra channel you see in the B35 oil filter housing (upward-facing) goes nowhere. But simply screwing on a B34 oil filter housing to your B35 block means oil pressure will be inadequately low. This has to do with a threaded plug in the extra channel of the B35 block that is there to aid in the drainage of oil when doing oil changes.
BMW sells a DIN 908 screw plug, M10x1 that fits here (part #11127539543), and blocks oil passage, so oil pressure is back to normal during operation. The DIN plug cost me $6 at a local stealership, and this means all I have to do is have an extension made (which I've kind of drawn up and rendered). This means you use two gaskets, but it also means that you can use the downward-facing B34 oil filter housing on the B35 if you've gone and bought Koala Motorsport Mount Adapters like I did. But you must plug the hole first. Here's the extension I'm having made:
Of course, these aren't the final CAD drawings. I just sent this around to get a quote. Most places quoted me around $100-150, but a friend's friend has hooked me up with a better deal. Thankfully, it's pretty easy one-dimensional milling.
So that's that sorted, sort of. Now I have to get a hold of an '88 wiring harness and 179 ECU, and there won't be much holding back my car from running. Except for, you know, the usual everything.
Last edited by volac; 12-11-2012 at 12:23 AM.
Member
Any chance you can have an extra extension made while you're making yours? If so let me know the cost?
Member
Abaddon, Perhaps this part could be your side busness! I'm sure there are lots of guys that will need that part when they do the B35 swap! or perhaps you could sell the idea/patent to Koala as they could have it as part of the kit or to sell separately Nice rendering!
'88 635, '92 325IC
im a sheet in the streets
@Fernando: Cash is tight so I can't have a second one made at the moment, but I can absolutely help you with this in the future. Once I have my friend make the CAD drawing, I can send it to you with all the details you'll need, or I can have this guy make one for you further down the line. Plus, I'd rather give you a working one, so I'll be testing mine to see if everything's cool before you get one.
@carsnplanes, that's not a bad idea. Do you really think demand for this item would be that big though? How often do people do a B35 swap and have engine mount adapters get in the way? It's pretty much E24 exclusive I fink.
Last edited by volac; 12-12-2012 at 01:32 AM.
Member
If Koala sees a market for engine mount sales then there is a market for the oil adapters. Every time someone buys the eng mounts...think about it...they will need the oil filter spacer...unless they find and use a downward facing filter from a B35 E24 engine. Still not sure that one would fit as you say you haven't tested the clearance on that combination. (block and oil filter housing).
Member
Fair enough abaddon. As far as testing the fit, might you consider cutting some tubing to the thickness of the spacer and test fitting the oil filter canister?
im a sheet in the streets
@carsnplanes: I guess you're right. This is for the downward-facing filter, as the upward one hits the ABS module. So yeah, actually, anyone with an E24 doing this swap with their engine mount adapters are going to need an oil housing extension kit. Unless they remove their ABS module.
@FernandoBunster: I did something similar, had a 1-inch thick block of wood and set it up. There's plenty of space on both sides.
im a sheet in the streets
Because of milling limitations, the extension doesn't look very pretty, but will do the job just fine. I'll update you guys when I actually receive it.
In the meantime, I ran into a problem with the wiring harness. Namely, I have no idea what I'm doing. I have access to an '88 635CSi and its harness, but I don't know what I need. Do I need just the "engine" harness that goes to the ECU from the engine fuel rail area, or do I need the whole thing (all 3 yards of it), that goes to the fusebox and stuff?
If I get an '88 harness, does it need any modifying? I also have a 528e "super eta" harness as per the MyE28 B35 swap. Will this be easier than the '88 E24 harness?
Member
Hello Guys,
did you finally make a cnc extension? did it work well?
im a sheet in the streets
I should be getting it this week. As mentioned before, it won't look as nice as the one I "mocked up", but it'll work, and it'll be a damn sight cheaper to manufacture too. Once it's all tested and stuff, I think I'll host the files in this thread so people can use it themselves.
Member
This might help, just scroll down the page for the wiring discussion. http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=60306
I also prepared a M30-B35 for my '85. When it came to the wiring, I found an '88 engine harness and I also got the piece of the harness that came out of the fuse box of the '88. This has a circular plug to connect with the '88's engine harness. I spliced the rectangular connector for a M30-B34 on the other end of the wires coming from the circular connector using the wiring instructions from the diagram from the above link. Effectively making a plug and play adapter. Some of the wires are still questionable to me.
I never got to test my harness because I found a high compression euro engine (M30-B34) that I'm going to use instead.
Member
Nice find on the euro motor.
85 635CSi (the Bomber), 87 DINAN /// M6 (SOLD)
Member
Yeah thanks. So with my euro engine, G265 gearbox and euro m635 springs will it be a euro?
Oh I forgot, euro bumpers.
Last edited by FernandoBunster; 12-26-2012 at 08:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
im a sheet in the streets
Alright, the custom part still isn't ready. I'll deal with that when I get to it, but in terms of the wiring harness, I'm so confused.
I see the wiring harness for the engine, I see the wiring harness for the body. Aren't they seperate? I've read that I need to splice the fuse box connection if I use an '88 635CSi engine harness. Only problem is the engine harness never touches the fuse box, it's the body harness that does that. Am I supposed to replace the entire body AND engine harness? Why won't the '88 E24 harness just plug and play nice with the rest of the electricals? I'll need to double-check, but I see no adapter out of my fuse box to do anything with.
EDIT: It helps to have the light on. Now I see at least a plug going into the fusebox that looks like it's what people were referring to when they mentioned fusebox splicing. Now do I splice directly onto the fusebox plug, or do I need to find an adapter into that plug, and wire the harness into the adapter rather than the plug?
Last edited by volac; 01-02-2013 at 03:46 PM.
Member
One end of the engine harness plugs into the fuse box (round plug), where I made the adapter, and the other end into the ecu (long rectangular plug).
im a sheet in the streets
Ah, but of course. And the other round plug with less prongs is for diagnostics/resetting oil service indicator, etc?
Great. So I think I'll stick with the E32 harness, since it's already all installed and hooked up, and the only advantage I gain by getting an '88 E24 harness is not having to do the C103 plug, which involves splicing like 3 wires.
I can't find the dashboard plug, however, anyone know where that is? Also, I was told I need to jumper two cables that inhibit the starter motor from starting (the harness is from an automatic). Oh and coolant temp sensor will apparently be a problem too, but we'll see.
im a sheet in the streets
Big update of generally bad news: I don't know where anything goes. If anyone has any solutions to any of these, I'd be happy to hear:
1. I still can't find the C103 plug
2. I don't see how the B35's fuel rail gets fuel. My old fuel line is sitting alone with no connection.
3. I think the E32 wiring harness won't work. Doesn't seem to be long enough, and even if it was, the ECU connector doesn't fit through through the hole behind the dash to get to the ECU (wtf?!) This point is mostly a rant, I'll go look at that E24 harness.
4. There are dozens of wires, cables, connectors, and hoses under the manifold that I have no idea where they go. I've attached the images below, hopefully someone knows. Worst of all, I have no more cars to reference, and it's hard finding the pictures I need online.
IMG 1: This is from the oil level sender in the oil pan. I see nothing nearby it plugs into.
IMG 2: Here's a vacuum line/electrical plug combination, coming from under the manifold. Don't know where the vacuum line goes into, don't know if I have the electrical connector correct.
IMG 3: This is jutting out from right under the manifold. Vacuum lines go here? Or maybe this is the (really weird) way that the fuel rail gets fuel? I DO have two fuel lines in this area doing nothing.
IMG 4: A hole in the manifold. No idea what goes here.
Member
#3. Those are the fuel rails. They are hard lines that go under the manifold and connect to the fuel injector rail. You'll need two small lengths of pre-shaped fuel line. Check out RealOEM.com for these. I tried to shape them with straight fuel line but they kinked.
I think the easiest way to deal with the engine harness is to get an '88 or '89 e24 harness. That's what I did.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks