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Thread: Just became a BMW owner. A couple questions.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Camarillo, CA
    Posts
    31
    My Cars
    1999 323i (E46)

    Talking Just became a BMW owner. A couple questions.

    Hey everybody. I just became a BMW owner. I bought a 5-speed 1999 323i this weekend. She has 155K miles. So far I am absolutely loving it. I got it inspected and it has a few issues, nothing major but stuff I'll need to address over time. I'm going to list them out and comment on them and if anyone here has anything to add or correct me on, please do so.

    All repairs I would consider doing myself, as I am pretty handy and I have access to the auto hobby shop on the military base where I work.

    Valve cover gasket is leaking oil, but not bad enough that I smell any burning oil. BMW service guy said just check the oil once a month and make sure the oil's topped off, and if it starts burning worse consider replacing the gasket. That's like a $30 part and a full day's work as I understand it. Any comments on how difficult a DIY job this is on a 3 series are welcome.

    Needs new drive belts. I'm not sure what belts exactly this means. I have a Haynes manual on the way so I'll be able to understand the extent of this when I can read more about it. How urgent is this? Is this something like a timing belt where if it breaks I can seriously mess up my motor?

    Power steering line between reservoir to cooler leaking. I figure this is a cheap part and an easy DIY fix and is not urgent.

    Moisture in the driver's side headlamp lens. Great excuse to mod some HID's and angel eyes into her. ^_^ Obviously not urgent.

    Front Control Arm Bushings worn. Any comments on how urgent this is and how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    Rubber boots on front sway bar end links torn. Any comments on how urgent this is and how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    Rear trailing arm bushings torn. Any comments on how urgent this is and how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    Rear differential rubber mount torn. Any comments on how urgent this is and how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    Fuel filter is original. They recommended replacing this. Any comments on how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    Front brake rotors need replaced. What are the best ones? BavAuto has cross-drilled, slotted, and a combo of the two. All cost the same. Thoughts?

    Washer pump inop. I assume an easy fix.

    I have an oil light and the oil is full. They say it's either the sensor or it needs reprogrammed. I figure I'll try reprogramming whatever that means, and then if that doesn't work replace the sensor. Any comments on how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    SRS light is always on. Not sure what this means, but the guy I bought it from said the airbags should work even though the light is on. I'll have to doublecheck for myself obviously. Any comments on this are appreciated.

    Last but certainly not least,

    Clutch throwout bearing is failing. Probably the most urgent fix. It's making the clattering noise when I let the rpm's go below 1000 on engaging first gear. Can I just keep driving it, not letting it go below 1000 rpm and then address it when I can hear and feel it getting worse? Or is it something I should just do now because there's risk of further damaging other clutch components? It's a cheap part but any comments on how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    Thanks all.

    Loving this car!!!

    --Schlag

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Baumholder, Germany
    Posts
    5,561
    My Cars
    05 325it 05 M3 95 318is
    See below my military comrade:

    All repairs I would consider doing myself, as I am pretty handy and I have access to the auto hobby shop on the military base where I work.

    Valve cover gasket - very easy job, but it won't take all day, maybe an hour or so.

    Needs new drive belts. - it is the front belts, I would look at getting a kit from these guys since they take good care of me: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462
    Of course you can get after market parts too, but at your milage, I would replace everything.

    Power steering line between reservoir to cooler leaking. I figure this is a cheap part and an easy DIY fix and is not urgent. - Agree

    Moisture in the driver's side headlamp lens. Great excuse to mod some HID's and angel eyes into her. ^_^ Obviously not urgent. - DEPO sells good Angel eyes/HID kits for around 200 bones.

    Front Control Arm Bushings worn. Any comments on how urgent this is and how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated. - A normal stock craft shop should have the tools for this, and I would replace this in the next couple of months.

    Rubber boots on front sway bar end links torn. If you are hearing a "thump" going over speed bumps, or such, they are bad. Easy to replace and do these when you work on the brakes.

    Rear trailing arm bushings torn. These will take a couple of hours for each side, plan on an all day job just for the both. The bushing will need to be pressed in/out.

    Rear differential rubber mount torn. Not a big deal, but it will need to be replaced anyway.

    Fuel filter is original. Very easy to do, just the only trick is the releasing the lines, should take 20 minutes.

    Front brake rotors need replaced. If you drive the car, and don't race it, all the extra slotted or cross drill is just going to look cool. But standard brakes will work just fine if it is a daily driver to and from work. Make sure you get the pad sensor too, they don't like comming out.

    Washer pump inop. I assume an easy fix. Roger that!

    I have an oil light and the oil is full. Normally it is the sensor, replace it at your next oil change. Shop around for this one, for it can cost from 65 to 120 depending on where you buy it from.

    SRS light is always on. Not sure what this means, but the guy I bought it from said the airbags should work even though the light is on. I'll have to doublecheck for myself obviously. Any comments on this are appreciated.
    B.S. flag is up on this one! Get to a dealership/indy to pull codes for that, I would bet that it is the passanger side seat occupancy problem.


    Last but certainly not least,

    Clutch throwout bearing is failing. Probably the most urgent fix. It's making the clattering noise when I let the rpm's go below 1000 on engaging first gear. Can I just keep driving it, not letting it go below 1000 rpm and then address it when I can hear and feel it getting worse? Or is it something I should just do now because there's risk of further damaging other clutch components? It's a cheap part but any comments on how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    That is going to be an 8hr job, make sure you do the whole clutch, not just the throw-out bearing. I think I remember hearing somewhere that the dual mass fly wheel is suppose to be replace too if you get a new clutch, I will let one of the others chime in on this out though.
    Worthy
    Current:
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunkliner! Mr. Go_Fast (Stored for the Winter)
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) a work in progress - Winter Car!
    Past:
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/375k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 motor, such a beater, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,151
    My Cars
    Avus e30(sold), '95 Avus
    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    See below my military comrade:

    All repairs I would consider doing myself, as I am pretty handy and I have access to the auto hobby shop on the military base where I work.

    Valve cover gasket - very easy job, but it won't take all day, maybe an hour or so.

    Needs new drive belts. - it is the front belts, I would look at getting a kit from these guys since they take good care of me: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462
    Of course you can get after market parts too, but at your milage, I would replace everything.

    Power steering line between reservoir to cooler leaking. I figure this is a cheap part and an easy DIY fix and is not urgent. - Agree

    Moisture in the driver's side headlamp lens. Great excuse to mod some HID's and angel eyes into her. ^_^ Obviously not urgent. - DEPO sells good Angel eyes/HID kits for around 200 bones.

    Front Control Arm Bushings worn. Any comments on how urgent this is and how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated. - A normal stock craft shop should have the tools for this, and I would replace this in the next couple of months.

    Rubber boots on front sway bar end links torn. If you are hearing a "thump" going over speed bumps, or such, they are bad. Easy to replace and do these when you work on the brakes.

    Rear trailing arm bushings torn. These will take a couple of hours for each side, plan on an all day job just for the both. The bushing will need to be pressed in/out.

    Rear differential rubber mount torn. Not a big deal, but it will need to be replaced anyway.

    Fuel filter is original. Very easy to do, just the only trick is the releasing the lines, should take 20 minutes.

    Front brake rotors need replaced. If you drive the car, and don't race it, all the extra slotted or cross drill is just going to look cool. But standard brakes will work just fine if it is a daily driver to and from work. Make sure you get the pad sensor too, they don't like comming out.

    Washer pump inop. I assume an easy fix. Roger that!

    I have an oil light and the oil is full. Normally it is the sensor, replace it at your next oil change. Shop around for this one, for it can cost from 65 to 120 depending on where you buy it from.

    SRS light is always on. Not sure what this means, but the guy I bought it from said the airbags should work even though the light is on. I'll have to doublecheck for myself obviously. Any comments on this are appreciated.
    B.S. flag is up on this one! Get to a dealership/indy to pull codes for that, I would bet that it is the passanger side seat occupancy problem.


    Last but certainly not least,

    Clutch throwout bearing is failing. Probably the most urgent fix. It's making the clattering noise when I let the rpm's go below 1000 on engaging first gear. Can I just keep driving it, not letting it go below 1000 rpm and then address it when I can hear and feel it getting worse? Or is it something I should just do now because there's risk of further damaging other clutch components? It's a cheap part but any comments on how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    That is going to be an 8hr job, make sure you do the whole clutch, not just the throw-out bearing. I think I remember hearing somewhere that the dual mass fly wheel is suppose to be replace too if you get a new clutch, I will let one of the others chime in on this out though.
    I agree with pretty much everything you say.

    SRS light could be a multitude of things. In my experience e46's need seat belt tensioners and clock springs for most air bag problems. But it could be a door harness, seat occupancy mat/control box(they are separate this model), or simply someone had left an airbag unplugged when they did a window regulator. Have the dealer check it.

    I would not go through the expense of replacing the flywheel unless it is severly overheated or it is locked(i'll explain). When the clutch is out, grab the flywheel and twist it clockwise and counter clockwise. You should be able to shift it some. I've seen instanced where it is locked, and other times it is extremely loose. I've never had to replace on in a car that had the clutch replaced before it was comlpetely smoked.
    Level 1 Certified BMW Technician

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Norfolk, va
    Posts
    99
    My Cars
    00 BMW 328CI, 00 MX5 SE
    If you're at 155k probably time to check out a few things: You can be enlightened on all of these things here on the forum with some extensive searching:

    Check out your VANOS

    Check your Cooling system: Expansion tank, plastic waterpump pulley, water pump, hoses, and thermostat for function.

    Check your intake and vacuum system for leaks. Ask the guys at your auto hobby if they have an intake smoker, and if not, ask where the cheapest place to get your car smoked is. (This will save you hundreds of dollars of heartache)

    Check out your spark plugs since you'll be pulling off the Coil over plugs when you swap your valve cover gasket. (Note, that for some reason they really love to torque the hell out of them when they install them I almost needed a cheater bar to get mine out antiseize is crucial when putting in new ones)

    Change your transmission fluid to royal purple 75w-90 or synchromax, or Redline MTF fully synthetic.

    Change your Rear diff fluid. Royal purple 75w-90 again.

    Check out your fuel pressure at the rail. There is a schraeder valve on the fuel rail you can test which makes it a piece of cake. Im not sure what your reading should be for fuel pump pressure to the rail. Mine was 3.5Bar in a 00 328CI. just google it. If you are reading the correct pressure than there is no reason to change your fuel pump or filter. (I've done this in an autohobby, and having all of that gasoline leaking down into your armpit burns like HELL!)

    Check out your power steering fluid. Keep in mind that this car doesn't use power steering fluid. It uses ATF dexron mercon which sounds crazy. But it's true.

    Consider flushing and replacing your brake fluid with ATE super blue. More than you need, but it's nice and clean, and easy to tell when it's getting old.

    Consider flushing your cooling system when you swap in new parts of the system. If they use the wrong antifreeze you might have a bit of corrosion. I've never pulled the heater core on my 328CI, and I don't want to.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Garden Grove, CA
    Posts
    186
    My Cars
    1992 BMW 325i
    Also check brake lines, working on changing my springs yesterday all my lines are cracking, not leaking and brakes work good but I got all 6 lines coming my way from Pelicanparts as preventative and piece of mind.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Norfolk, va
    Posts
    99
    My Cars
    00 BMW 328CI, 00 MX5 SE
    Quote Originally Posted by SoNiC21 View Post
    Also check brake lines, working on changing my springs yesterday all my lines are cracking, not leaking and brakes work good but I got all 6 lines coming my way from Pelicanparts as preventative and piece of mind.
    Did you consider stainless steel hoses. No more spongy pedal.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Camarillo, CA
    Posts
    31
    My Cars
    1999 323i (E46)
    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    Valve cover gasket - very easy job, but it won't take all day, maybe an hour or so.

    good news, thanks.

    Needs new drive belts. - it is the front belts, I would look at getting a kit from these guys since they take good care of me: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=846253&siteid =214672&catalogid=4462
    Of course you can get after market parts too, but at your milage, I would replace everything.

    I'll check it out, thanks. How urgent should I be on the belts, and how long does a job like that take?

    Front Control Arm Bushings worn. Any comments on how urgent this is and how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated. - A normal stock craft shop should have the tools for this, and I would replace this in the next couple of months.


    OK I'll make that a priority. Thanks for the heads up.

    Rubber boots on front sway bar end links torn. If you are hearing a "thump" going over speed bumps, or such, they are bad. Easy to replace and do these when you work on the brakes.


    No thumps, it is solid going over even large speedbumps. So I'll do these when I replace the rotors in the medium term.

    Rear trailing arm bushings torn. These will take a couple of hours for each side, plan on an all day job just for the both. The bushing will need to be pressed in/out.


    How urgent is this?

    Rear differential rubber mount torn. Not a big deal, but it will need to be replaced anyway.


    Do you mean as part of one of these other jobs?

    Fuel filter is original. Very easy to do, just the only trick is the releasing the lines, should take 20 minutes.


    Glad to hear it's easy lol.

    Front brake rotors need replaced. If you drive the car, and don't race it, all the extra slotted or cross drill is just going to look cool. But standard brakes will work just fine if it is a daily driver to and from work. Make sure you get the pad sensor too, they don't like comming out.


    Good to know I can get away with the $40 ones instead of the $150 ones... I don't drive that aggressively. I'll have to see how visible they are behind my wheels and decide whether the asthetics would dictate the nicer ones. Thanks.


    I have an oil light and the oil is full. Normally it is the sensor, replace it at your next oil change. Shop around for this one, for it can cost from 65 to 120 depending on where you buy it from.


    Thanks for the gouge.

    Clutch throwout bearing is failing. Probably the most urgent fix. It's making the clattering noise when I let the rpm's go below 1000 on engaging first gear. Can I just keep driving it, not letting it go below 1000 rpm and then address it when I can hear and feel it getting worse? Or is it something I should just do now because there's risk of further damaging other clutch components? It's a cheap part but any comments on how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated.

    That is going to be an 8hr job, make sure you do the whole clutch, not just the throw-out bearing. I think I remember hearing somewhere that the dual mass fly wheel is suppose to be replace too if you get a new clutch, I will let one of the others chime in on this out though.

    What do you mean by "do the whole clutch"?

    Quote Originally Posted by bimmer_boyis View Post
    SRS light could be a multitude of things. In my experience e46's need seat belt tensioners and clock springs for most air bag problems. But it could be a door harness, seat occupancy mat/control box(they are separate this model), or simply someone had left an airbag unplugged when they did a window regulator. Have the dealer check it.

    I'm betting that's what it is too. The guy I bought it from said he's changed out the passenger side regulator a couple times.

    I would not go through the expense of replacing the flywheel unless it is severly overheated or it is locked(i'll explain). When the clutch is out, grab the flywheel and twist it clockwise and counter clockwise. You should be able to shift it some. I've seen instanced where it is locked, and other times it is extremely loose. I've never had to replace on in a car that had the clutch replaced before it was comlpetely smoked.

    OK thanks for the great tip.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2lowe46 View Post
    If you're at 155k probably time to check out a few things: You can be enlightened on all of these things here on the forum with some extensive searching:

    Check out your VANOS

    Check your Cooling system: Expansion tank, plastic waterpump pulley, water pump, hoses, and thermostat for function.

    Check your intake and vacuum system for leaks. Ask the guys at your auto hobby if they have an intake smoker, and if not, ask where the cheapest place to get your car smoked is. (This will save you hundreds of dollars of heartache)

    Check out your spark plugs since you'll be pulling off the Coil over plugs when you swap your valve cover gasket. (Note, that for some reason they really love to torque the hell out of them when they install them I almost needed a cheater bar to get mine out antiseize is crucial when putting in new ones)

    Change your transmission fluid to royal purple 75w-90 or synchromax, or Redline MTF fully synthetic.

    Change your Rear diff fluid. Royal purple 75w-90 again.

    Check out your fuel pressure at the rail. There is a schraeder valve on the fuel rail you can test which makes it a piece of cake. Im not sure what your reading should be for fuel pump pressure to the rail. Mine was 3.5Bar in a 00 328CI. just google it. If you are reading the correct pressure than there is no reason to change your fuel pump or filter. (I've done this in an autohobby, and having all of that gasoline leaking down into your armpit burns like HELL!)

    Check out your power steering fluid. Keep in mind that this car doesn't use power steering fluid. It uses ATF dexron mercon which sounds crazy. But it's true.

    Consider flushing and replacing your brake fluid with ATE super blue. More than you need, but it's nice and clean, and easy to tell when it's getting old.

    Consider flushing your cooling system when you swap in new parts of the system. If they use the wrong antifreeze you might have a bit of corrosion. I've never pulled the heater core on my 328CI, and I don't want to.
    Thanks for lots of great tips that would've taken me a long time to hear, if ever.

    Thanks to all of you. Awesome! Looks like I can stop searching for a hobby. LOL

    So I forgot to mention my heater. I'm in socal so it's not a huge deal, but mornings and evenings can be chilly. A/C workes great but the heater doesn't get very hot at all. It seems to work a bit better when set to auto, but it's still not as hot as it should be.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    boonies, western NC
    Posts
    13,706
    My Cars
    E34M5 street,E28 535race
    Full clutch: This means it's really silly to spend the day swapping one component, because they are all likely equally old. Throw-out bearing, clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, pivot pin -- replace all of them at the same time! Transmission mounts, shifter bushings, and the "guibo" (rubber flew-disc between trans and driveshaft) should also be considered during the clutch job.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
    BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,606
    My Cars
    2001 530i (E39) 128k
    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    Fuel filter is original. Very easy to do, just the only trick is the releasing the lines, should take 20 minutes.
    Huge LOL, at the time estimates for a beginner.
    Fuel Filter will take you anywhere from 2 to 5 hours.
    It took me 5 hours the first time.
    2 hours when I had to replace it b/c I did not use injector lines.

    Take any time estimate for a DIY and multiply it by a factor of 10 if you're learning. Trust me on this.
    One frozen screw can add 2 hours to your job. And, something like this will happen on EVERY single DIY you attempt.

    You've picked a good new hobby. I am 4 months into this and have learned a lot.
    It can suck and be scary, b/c nothing EVER goes as planned in the DIY, but gives a true feeling of accomplishment when done
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 04-07-2012 at 10:52 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    boonies, western NC
    Posts
    13,706
    My Cars
    E34M5 street,E28 535race
    FIVE HOURS for a fuel filter?

    My CAT can do it in an hour.
    You're allowed to use your hands, you know.....
    Can I have some of whatever you were smoking?
    The little hand is hours, the big hand is minutes.
    Don't give up your day job.
    You don't actually have to remove the engine and fuel tank...
    Did that include the flight to Germany to get the filter?
    Sorry, honey, can't go to the Pilates class, got a five hour job to do.
    I'm going out to change my oil, be back in a week or two.


    {Please don't be offended, I just really couldn't resist}

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
    BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,606
    My Cars
    2001 530i (E39) 128k
    Ha, no offense taken. I know it sounds crazy to a seasoned wrencher.

    This also included jacking up the car for the first time ever.

    The main hurdles were not being able to remove the hoses.
    Eventually, I decided to cut them off.

    The second time took me 2 hours, when I knew exactly how to do it.
    This includes set up and clean up.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Norfolk, va
    Posts
    99
    My Cars
    00 BMW 328CI, 00 MX5 SE
    Schlag, check your thermostat before you pull the heater core.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    193
    My Cars
    2007 335i FBO 50% E85
    quick question, how much did you pay for this car? FYI nothing personal, just curious.
    i just bought a 1999 328i auto with 100k for 3 grand with a couple of these problems, and other cosmetic problems...
    Last edited by bmw325i4ever; 04-08-2012 at 03:13 PM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Baumholder, Germany
    Posts
    5,561
    My Cars
    05 325it 05 M3 95 318is
    Quote Originally Posted by OnTheFence View Post
    Ha, no offense taken. I know it sounds crazy to a seasoned wrencher.

    This also included jacking up the car for the first time ever.

    The main hurdles were not being able to remove the hoses.
    Eventually, I decided to cut them off.

    The second time took me 2 hours, when I knew exactly how to do it.
    This includes set up and clean up.
    The OP has access to a craft shop which = Lift bays for about 5-6 bucks and hour. Besides the older 3er use hose clamps, not the pressure release plastic clips like the newer models.

    Valve cover gasket - very easy job, but it won't take all day, maybe an hour or so.

    good news, thanks. Make sure you get the round profile gaskets too, I would also go with the small rubber pieces on the bolts as well.

    Needs new drive belts. - it is the front belts, I would look at getting a kit from these guys since they take good care of me: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=846253&siteid =214672&catalogid=4462
    Of course you can get after market parts too, but at your milage, I would replace everything.

    I'll check it out, thanks. How urgent should I be on the belts, and how long does a job like that take? I would set aside about 2 hours for everything to be replaced. If you plan on doing a coolant overhaul, wait until then. These guys sell good kits that even come with the belts, ect: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-323...ngine/Cooling/

    Front Control Arm Bushings worn. Any comments on how urgent this is and how hard this would be to do myself are appreciated. - A normal stock craft shop should have the tools for this, and I would replace this in the next couple of months.


    OK I'll make that a priority. Thanks for the heads up.

    Rubber boots on front sway bar end links torn. If you are hearing a "thump" going over speed bumps, or such, they are bad. Easy to replace and do these when you work on the brakes.


    No thumps, it is solid going over even large speedbumps. So I'll do these when I replace the rotors in the medium term.

    Rear trailing arm bushings torn. These will take a couple of hours for each side, plan on an all day job just for the both. The bushing will need to be pressed in/out.


    How urgent is this? Not at the top of the list, but you should get it done in the next 6 months. They will add to uneven tire wear.

    Rear differential rubber mount torn. Not a big deal, but it will need to be replaced anyway.


    Do you mean as part of one of these other jobs? I would do it with the rear trailing arms bushing.

    Fuel filter is original. Very easy to do, just the only trick is the releasing the lines, should take 20 minutes.


    Glad to hear it's easy lol. See above.

    Front brake rotors need replaced. If you drive the car, and don't race it, all the extra slotted or cross drill is just going to look cool. But standard brakes will work just fine if it is a daily driver to and from work. Make sure you get the pad sensor too, they don't like comming out.


    Good to know I can get away with the $40 ones instead of the $150 ones... I don't drive that aggressively. I'll have to see how visible they are behind my wheels and decide whether the asthetics would dictate the nicer ones. Thanks.

    Worthy
    Current:
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunkliner! Mr. Go_Fast (Stored for the Winter)
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) a work in progress - Winter Car!
    Past:
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/375k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 motor, such a beater, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Camarillo, CA
    Posts
    31
    My Cars
    1999 323i (E46)
    Quote Originally Posted by bmw325i4ever View Post
    quick question, how much did you pay for this car? FYI nothing personal, just curious.
    i just bought a 1999 328i auto with 100k for 3 grand with a couple of these problems, and other cosmetic problems...
    I paid $3300. But she is in perfect condition appearance-wise except for a small ding in the hood and in the bottom right of the front bumper cover. Interior is beautiful. It will be perfect if the dirtyness around the door handles comes off with some work, and I'm sure it will.

    She also included an alpine stereo with two power amps in the front of the trunk and two subwoofers in the spare compartment. Not really necessary for me, but nice to have ^_^

    I'll post up some pictures when I can. We just lost our SLR this weekend

    Thanks again for all the great advice, guys. I'm planning on doing the clutch this weekend. We'll see how it goes. I'm going to apply my flying training to this and prepare extensively ahead of time to minimize the amount of stuff that can go wrong during the actual event

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    193
    My Cars
    2007 335i FBO 50% E85
    3300? thats a pretty good price... my body is complete crap on mine. with that said, i fixed up everything and im going to flip it make a grand and work my way up to a better bmw, hopefully a 330i.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Camarillo, CA
    Posts
    31
    My Cars
    1999 323i (E46)
    Yeah it was a guy that used it as his company car for a consulting business for the last 6 years. She's awesome.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Camarillo, CA
    Posts
    31
    My Cars
    1999 323i (E46)
    ... I never paid much attention to the wheels, just that they looked decent.

    They are Hamann 18's... apparently they're like $2000 a set new.

    Got my new powerflex control arm bushings and a set of drive belts on the way from bavauto!
    Last edited by Schlag96; 04-25-2012 at 12:52 PM.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Baumholder, Germany
    Posts
    5,561
    My Cars
    05 325it 05 M3 95 318is
    Good call, yeah the rims and tires are the cost of the whole car, so anything you put into it is just gravy. If you haven't done so, get a Bently, almost all of the info is spot on, sometime they can be wrong. Compaired to a Hanes manual, it is more detailed.
    Worthy
    Current:
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunkliner! Mr. Go_Fast (Stored for the Winter)
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) a work in progress - Winter Car!
    Past:
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/375k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 motor, such a beater, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Camarillo, CA
    Posts
    31
    My Cars
    1999 323i (E46)
    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    Good call, yeah the rims and tires are the cost of the whole car, so anything you put into it is just gravy. If you haven't done so, get a Bently, almost all of the info is spot on, sometime they can be wrong. Compaired to a Hanes manual, it is more detailed.
    Yes I got my bentley already, and used it for my first oil change a few weeks ago.

    Next up is powerflex front control arm bushings and a set of belts, on the way from bavauto as we speak.

    I find that the bentley is great but tutorial videos are way better for learning the tricks and traps and gotchas BEFORE you do the job.

    I think maybe i'll do this next ^_^

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-EwXgiwv_E[/ame]

    I wonder how hard it would be to integrate with the BMW computer and display all the little details that are computed but not used in the stock configuration... and integrating the radio and environmental controls...

    I think I may need to take a programming class muhahahaha


  21. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Baumholder, Germany
    Posts
    5,561
    My Cars
    05 325it 05 M3 95 318is
    Besides on this section of the Forum, also look over at the E-46 section too. I don't tend to hang out much there anymore, but it is a good place to bounce ideas off of the guys over there.
    Worthy
    Current:
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunkliner! Mr. Go_Fast (Stored for the Winter)
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) a work in progress - Winter Car!
    Past:
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/375k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 motor, such a beater, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started

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