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Thread: Broken Control Arm Bushing Bolt Stuck in Frame.

  1. #1
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    Broken Control Arm Bushing Bolt Stuck in Frame.

    I was having difficulty removing the ball joints because of the taper and reinstalled the lollipops (front control arm bushing brackets), and when I was removing the bolts for the second time I broke one off inside; It was my stupid mistake it went in hard and then was coming out even harder.

    I have tried a bolt extractor ant that is not working, and I fear to turn it much harder and break that off inside the bolt.

    There is a hole all the way though the bolt (3/16") and now I don't know what to do. Can I drill the whole bolt out and tap it to a larger size? Or should I find someone who will weld a stud in there for me? I don't know how much metal there is in there because you can't really get to it by lifting up the carpet. Any help would be appreciated.

    It is a 1991 E30 318i. Thanks a lot.

  2. #2
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    Stick a wide or narrow head screwdriver attached to a drill if you're on a lift. My drain plug nut for my oil broke off in the oil pan hole and I am glad I didn't break it into pieces or else I'd have to open the pan and clean the bits out. Use a different size bolt extractor I guess
    IG: ZeeZooM3


  3. #3
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    The first thing to try would be a larger, left-hand twist, drill. The largest that you think you can get away with. Before do that, soak the stub with PBlaster or Kroil a couple of times a day for 2-4 days. The larger left-hand drill may well spin the stub out while you are drilling. And if not the larger hole will relieve stress on the threads and allow the use of a larger easy out. Worst case would be that you have to drill out the stub and use a Helicoil.

    The CAB and subframe bolts are in an area where corrosion is likely. Always run a thread chasing tap into the threads and it is best to use new bolts each time. If you aren't going to use new bolts clean the threads on the old bolts to shiny metal with a scratch wheel or run a die over them.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
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  4. #4
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    Is there enough metal in the stud to drill and tap it to the next size up?
    I think I already have what I need to do that, but I could always get a 10x40 heilicoil kit if not. Thanks a lot.

  5. #5
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    I'd hammer an Allen wrench it it, then weld it. Did that for two stripped Allens on flywheel.



  6. #6
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    I don't think the allen wrench will do it and then I'd have to drill that out too.

    But does anyone know how thick the metal is up in there?
    Bbecause I'll just drill and tap it (the hole through it is well centered) and put a slightly larger bolt or a Helicoil in there.

  7. #7
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    It worked my flywheel bolts.I think your forgetting how strong a Weld is. Are you going go trust your life with a helicoil? These are suspension components, not a windshield wiper bolt.



  8. #8
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    It's not the weld that is the issue, I don't think I can't get a thick enough Allen Wrench in there to not break the Allen wrench.

    That's the same reason the easy-out won't work, it's not slipping I'm turning so hard it seems like it's going to break.

    I'm trying left handed drill bits tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'm going to tap a slightly larger bolt hole, seems like the best thing to do all around. Thanks.
    Last edited by JoeliusCeasar; 03-14-2012 at 10:30 PM.

  9. #9
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    Try tapping it with a hammer with the easy out. Here's how I would do it. I would be extremely weary of trying to red drill the body of the car. Its not heavy gauge metal.

    Pb. Blaster or sea foam penetrant, and lots of heat torch/heat gun
    Easy out...if the easy out doesn't work, take a strong Allen, or weld a bolt to it with a hex head. The reason for the Allen is it will bite on the inside of the bolt. It could break off, but a drillbit can break in there too. I would do a re drill/helicoil as an absolute last resort. If there is enough sticking out, weld a cheap wrench to it, weld whatever you can to it that will allow leverage. Heck, weld a socket to it then drive it out with a ratchet.



  10. #10
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    If I picture this correctly you've broken the through bolt...?
    It has probably rusted inside the bushing which will be a near impossible bond to break. A torch will start a big stinking rubber fire long before enough heat is applied to burn the rust.
    Cut either the bolt head on the nut off, whichever remains and pry the arm out. You'll need to spread the bracket a bit but it will bend back.
    Last edited by ross1; 03-15-2012 at 07:14 AM.

  11. #11
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    Blow torch. The answer is always blow torch.
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  12. #12
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    When I went to get my wheels aligned a few years ago the guy used a blowtorch
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  13. #13
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    There's not really anything sticking out there are a few threads but theyy're still inside the "cups" that align the "Lolipops" (bushing brackets). I'm going to try more PB blaster, left hand drill bits and heat, plus the hamer and the easy out that sounds like that could be helpful, hopefully I won't have to drill and tap, but if I do I'll keep you updated on whether of not I'm still alive a year from now.

    Thanks Guys!

    Left hand drill bits and heat seemed to get it loose enough for the easy out. Now I just need to but a new bolt or two or four!


    Last edited by JoeliusCeasar; 03-15-2012 at 08:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    If I picture this correctly you've broken the through bolt...?
    It has probably rusted inside the bushing which will be a near impossible bond to break. A torch will start a big stinking rubber fire long before enough heat is applied to burn the rust.
    Cut either the bolt head on the nut off, whichever remains and pry the arm out. You'll need to spread the bracket a bit but it will bend back.

    I need to read what car you are working on before replying, sorry.

    Again, I don't advise heat now for fear of setting the carpet on fire inside the car. Drilling and re-tapping would be my choice.

  15. #15
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    I did this to my e30 about 3 months ago. I had to drill it out and then helicoil it. The helicoil is holding just fine and I've put the car through its paces. I didn't want to do the helicoil either but I didn't have a choice. Good luck man

  16. #16
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    I tapped a punch into the other hole as a guide for what straight was and then drilled through it with a small bit and then a larger left handed bit and then tried to remove with an Easy-out: nothing. So I drilled very carefully with a 1/4" left handed bit and it cam out really easy with an easy out. The hole through the bolt was so exact you almost couldn't see any difference in thickness of the "pipe" it now was.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeliusCeasar View Post
    I tapped a punch into the other hole as a guide for what straight was and then drilled through it with a small bit and then a larger left handed bit and then tried to remove with an Easy-out: nothing. So I drilled very carefully with a 1/4" left handed bit and it cam out really easy with an easy out. The hole through the bolt was so exact you almost couldn't see any difference in thickness of the "pipe" it now was.
    Any update to this? I just did the same exact thing. A standard bolt extractor did nothing. Is the reverse thread bit my best bet? Is the helicoil an ok fix?

  18. #18
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    I did This and need help so what should I do ? I own a 2000 BMW 323i 4dr heard some noises when driving and my bolt broke in half the head isn't there but the bolt is broken rigt flat with the subframe hole ! What should I do without taking it in or who would be able to do this type of job ! What shops ?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beamerfast View Post
    I did This and need help so what should I do ? I own a 2000 BMW 323i 4dr heard some noises when driving and my bolt broke in half the head isn't there but the bolt is broken rigt flat with the subframe hole ! What should I do without taking it in or who would be able to do this type of job ! What shops ?
    I wound up removing as much as the bolt as I could and then I had a shop weld a stud in place. There was no way the rest of the bolt was gonna come out.

  20. #20
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    Probably just as easy to replace the entire subframe at that point methinks....

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