WTF _ the drivers door lock just spins !

[wrench13]

Just went to open the drivers door, inserted the ket turn to left and the cylinder spins around 180 or more. I know it must a clip or such inside the door, any know if it can be fixed from the access in the end of the door, or does the whole door need to come apart?

[steve f]

I had this happen to both my doors on the 2001 just out of warranty, one a few months after the other. I had the first replaced at a local body shop to the tune of $600. The second time I tackled the job myself.

What happens is the lock cylinder detent plate falls off and the ball, pin and spring fall out.

The door must come apart and the lock/exterior door handle assembly removed. If you reach down in the bottom of the door you should be able to find the small parts. I then reinstalled the small parts and re-staked the cover back in place and used JB Weld to hold it all together.

I don't think the small parts are available through the dealer if you can't find them.

I think I can shoot you some pictures by e-mail.

[wcampbelliv]

Haha mine does the same. After spinning it long enough it usually catches and works. Luckily, the trunk seems to work most of the time so I've yet to be totally locked out...

famous last words I'm sure...

[wrench13]

Steve F, yes pics would totally help -

email addy wrench13@aol.com

Thanks!!!

[steve f]

Haha mine does the same. After spinning it long enough it usually catches and works. Luckily, the trunk seems to work most of the time so I've yet to be totally locked out...

famous last words I'm sure...

Then the trunk harness gets cut and...

Steve F, yes pics would totally help -

email addy wrench13@aol.com

Thanks!!!

Pictures sent.

[Itsablurr]

Pictures sent.

Would you mind posting up for general consumption? I have the same issue that needs to be addressed.

Thanks!

[Jeremy]

Quite a common issue, and has been documented here in many threads. Here's mine from 2010 and Islands62s from 2008.

I got tired of fixing mine, as nothing stopped it from happening again. My fix was to purchase keyless entry. Although the kit is NLA, I managed to find a brand new OE alarm/keyless entry kit on Craigslist. At some point I'll fix/replace the tumblers, but for now I'm content. Good luck with your fix. Would be interested in seeing other peoples fixes as I will fix mine at some point, sooner if I know there is something that actually works.

[steve f]

Would you mind posting up for general consumption? I have the same issue that needs to be addressed.

Thanks!

I would, but haven't done the photo hosting thing yet. I know I should, it is on the list.

If someone else want to post them, that's fine. If you just want them in an e-mail PM me. I'll be glad to help.


First order of business, look for the list.

[Jeremy]

I would, but haven't done the photo hosting thing yet. I know I should, it is on the list.

If someone else want to post them, that's fine. If you just want them in an e-mail PM me. I'll be glad to help.


First order of business, look for the list.

I'll post them up if you want to email them to me. Address is in my sig below.

[Jeremy]

Photos from Steve f:

[Shoe Coupe]

yeha i had this same problem. That little solid peice of metal that is a T shape, I had to machine a new one and put it in there. I had the little door welded in place and now it's good forever!

[wrench13]

Thanks for pics steve. I suppose you had to remove the window and the regultor to get to this?

[Jeremy]

Thanks for pics steve. I suppose you had to remove the window and the regultor to get to this?

Just the door panel.

[wcampbelliv]

Just fixed this last night. I found the plate, T, block, 1 spring, and 1 ball.

I reassembled and used liquid nails silicon sealant to hold the plate in place. Hopefully it will hold now. It's been working all morning, but after reading about any key opening it up, I'll have to check to make sure that's not happening.

If anyone is working on this right now and wants to talk to someone who's done it, give me a shout, I'm happy to walk you through what I did.

[LittleBlueBMW]

hmmm my new coupe has this problem too! Thankfully it has keyless so it is not a super issue Is it also related to how the door handle will not open from the outside or have I hit the trifecta of door lock problems?

[beofservice]

Looking at the pics... The "door" is also T-shaped with a notch at the top, correct? It is the cover that hods the parts inside?

So if my "door" is still on there but the lock mostly doesn't work, then I have to assume that the balls/springs other parts are either dirty or worn. Guess I will need to pull the handle off where i can get to this stuff.

So what is the secret to removing the handle/lock assembly?

Gary

[kojohns]

I'm assuming one could JBWeld the little door as a preventative maintenance before it falls apart?

I'm going to be in there soon working on the power window sliders and thinking it would be an opportune time to do this.

[steve f]

I'm assuming one could JBWeld the little door as a preventative maintenance before it falls apart?

I'm going to be in there soon working on the power window sliders and thinking it would be an opportune time to do this.

yes, if your are in there anyway, that would be good PM.

[BeemerMike]

Thanks for the pics of the parts in #10. My driver's door lock on my 2001 Z3 started spinning. I just got the door handle/lock assembly out. The T plate was in the bottom of the door, but the T block, short spring, two balls, and the square plunger with the hole were all still in the lock housing. I don't know how they stayed in (grease?), but they did. With the hole in the square plunger, it seemed there should be a spring in there, but I found nothing in the door. Now I see there is supposed to be a long spring in the plunger that will push against the T plate. When I put the T plate in place (without the long spring) the lock mechanism seems to work. So, instead of buying a new door handle/lock assembly, I should be able to find an appropriate spring at Home Depot using the pic as a guide to size. Remove and clean all the internal pieces, grease everything up, reassemble, and stake/JB Weld the T plate on and see if that solves the problem.

[BeemerMike]

Follow up: I could not find an appropriate spring to replace the long spring in the plunger (not at Home Depot/Lowe's, locksmiths, or gunsmiths). Finally, I found a 1/8" tension coil spring at Ace Hardware (3/16" might have fit the hole perfectly, or been slightly too large, but I did not want to go back and get another spring), and after stretching it to make it a compression spring (checking the tension) and cutting it to the appropriate length, I think I have repaired the lock. Test fit to make sure I had the lock cylinder in the proper alignment, checked key/lock function (OK), then filled the cleaned lock with white lithium grease, reassembled the parts, reattached the T-shaped floor plate (it would stay in place with just enough friction from the edges of the hole), and then JB Welded the T-plate in place. After letting it set for 24 hours, I reinstalled the handle/lock and it seems to function properly. A less than $10 repair (if you don't count the driving around looking for the spring) instead of a $200+ new handle/lock.

One question though. If I lock the car with the key in the driver's door lock, all the locks lock. If I then turn the key to unlock the car, the first turn to the left only unlocks the driver's door (without activating the lock actuators on the passenger door and the trunk), but if you then turn the key to the left a second time all the locks unlock. For the passenger door and trunk, the first turn of the key unlocks all the locks. I've had this car since new, and I cannot remember if this is how it worked before, and I don't see anything in my owner's manual or Bentley that discusses this. My car does not have remote locking.

Is this normal lock function, or is there something I need to track down before I reinstall the windows (new sliders and lubrication) and the door panels?

[BeemerMike]

Bump. Could someone check their Z3 (I believe all 1997-2002 use the same ZKE system as my car) and confirm for me what the proper driver door unlocking function is?

From reading my Bentley manual a little closer it looks like proper function is to unlock everything on the first counterclockwise turn (to Position 2). I noticed that when I turn the key to Position 2 the first time, and then very slightly pull up on the door lock button, all the locks unlock. So, I may have gotten something slightly out of adjustment when I removed and reinstalled the door handle/lock, but I don't really see anything to get out of adjustment in the actuating rod from the door handle/lock. The locking microswitch is attached to the door lock cylinder, but the UNlocking microswitch must be attached to the door lock mechanism itself.

Thanks.

One question though. If I lock the car with the key in the driver's door lock, all the locks lock. If I then turn the key to unlock the car, the first turn to the left only unlocks the driver's door (without activating the lock actuators on the passenger door and the trunk), but if you then turn the key to the left a second time all the locks unlock. For the passenger door and trunk, the first turn of the key unlocks all the locks. I've had this car since new, and I cannot remember if this is how it worked before, and I don't see anything in my owner's manual or Bentley that discusses this. My car does not have remote locking.

Is this normal lock function, or is there something I need to track down before I reinstall the windows (new sliders and lubrication) and the door panels?

[BenFenner]

I'm sorry I did not reply earlier. Katie has a VW Beetle which I keep the valet key for, which requires me to unlock it with the key all the time. It takes two turns to get both doors to unlock.
Conversely, my 2000 M Coupe takes a single turn of the key in the door lock to unlock both doors. I know this for sure because the difference between the two cars keeps me cognizant, and I've taken to forgetting to double unlock the Beetle as of late.

[BeemerMike]

Conversely, my 2000 M Coupe takes a single turn of the key in the door lock to unlock both doors. I know this for sure because the difference between the two cars keeps me cognizant, and I've taken to forgetting to double unlock the Beetle as of late.

Thanks for the confirmation. I think my 1999 M3 coupe required two turns to unlock both doors, so that may have been causing my memory fail about the Z3. Something must be out of adjustment. I will soon be replacing the driver's door due to someone backing into me in a parking lot, so I'll track this down as part of that work (it will be easier to see once the rear window track is removed). I have the driver's door airbag removed, but surely that is not connected to the door lock in anyway. I'll double-check when the airbag is reinstalled.

[Garalf]

Hey everyone... just got my first Z3 this September and looking to do a few fixes over the winter months. The locks, both doors BTW, are going to be one of the fixes. Will also do the window sliders while I have the panels off.

I’m quite comfortable that I have researched the fix well enough except on the order of the parts when reassembling the locks. It may be self evident once I have them in hand but for now I can’t seem to find the exact order.

For example, looking from the top, there are two cavities; a rectangle shape and a smaller square cavity.

What goes in the rectangle cavity first: Is it the “T” shape part with the bottom of the “T” first, then the holed out smaller rectangle block lying down with the shorter of the springs in it and the 2 ball bearing squeezed on either side.

Then what goes into the square cavity before you close it all up with the “T” shape cover.

Is there a sketch or isometric that can help me with the assembly configuration?

Sorry if I missed it.

[Garalf]

Did the locks this week-end, both doors. Also did the window sliders while I was at it.

Sliders costs me $12 dollars plus I needed to steel two springs from ball point pens to repair the locks. Basically under $15 if you count the lithium grease I used.

Dealer wanted $1200 for the door locks plus another $200-$300 for the window slider repair.

Hard to believe that $15 and 8 hours of my time saved me $3000.....unreal