Help removing oil pan

[GAZ3]

Hi everyone,

It appears that pretty soon I will need to replace the oil pan gasket in my 2000 Z3 (2.3L). I have never done this before on this car and I was trying to read to understand the process to get it done. From the little information I have found it sounds as this would be somewhat of a complicated process... it sounds like you need to remove a lot of the front suspension components, disconnect power steering line, gas lines?

Does any one have or know where to find a good refernece on the process to remove the oil pan? I am very confused from the information I have read so far and dont seem to find any good materia with pictures that would be very helpful.

Thank you

[328 Power 04]

It's probably a lot like the E36 process (search for E36 DIY's). I did that on my E36 and it wasn't a fun job at all. I generally enjoy working on my cars, but this one I didn't enjoy at all.

I was trying to do it without taking off the suspension with the carrier, but ended up doing it anyways, after struggling for hours to get it to clear correctly.


You will have to take off the X-Brace first, then disconnect the struts from the top, and the four large bolts (or was it nuts?) holding the suspension carrier. Then you disconnect the steering shaft at the joint to be able to lower the suspension carrier with the steering rack. Control arm bushings will possibly have to be removed. You may have to disconnect some power steering tubing, but that's not hard at all. It's up to you if you want to let it hang, or remove it completely. To remove it completely will take much more work as you will have to disconnect brake lines, or calipers etc.

It makes it easier if you can raise the engine a little (loosen engine mounts) and raise it about an inch. While you're there, you may as well replace engine mounts if they're bad.

I don't see a need to disconnect fuel lines at all.

**** If you do end up doing the oil pan gasket, check the Oil Pump Nut. Chances are that it's loose, and on it's way for failure. Weld it, secure it with wire, locktite it, or something to make sure that it will not fall off and cause engine failure! Mine required 2 gentle finger flicks and it fell into my hand.



But of course, check all possible sites of leaks first before doing this job. Leaked oil just LOVES to ride along the seam of the engine and oil pan, causing you to think it's oil pan leaking.

Check your oil filter housing gaskets first. Those are notorious to leak after ~90,000 miles, especially in the cold. The rubber gasket turns rock hard and then shrinks in the cold. It's a much easier job than an oil pan gasket.



I'm telling you this from memory of 4 years ago. It may vary slightly, but the process is fairly straight forward. It will probably take a good 5-6 hours. If you do it once, the 2nd time will take you 3-4 hours.


I will be able to help with questions if you have any. Sorry if my answer was a bit vague. I will search for a diy. E36 and E46 would apply fairly well to the process.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=457789
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=532166
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=844442
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=519392

[mpire]

I haven't seen an oil pan gasket leaking on a Z3 before, but I am sure it could happen.

The oil filter housing, and the air/oil separator are common leak points that look like an oil pan gasket.

[Gibber66]

You will have to take off the X-Brace first, then disconnect the struts from the top, and the four large bolts (or was it nuts?) holding the suspension carrier. Then you disconnect the steering shaft at the joint to be able to lower the suspension carrier with the steering rack. Control arm bushings will possibly have to be removed. You may have to disconnect some power steering tubing, but that's not hard at all. It's up to you if you want to let it hang, or remove it completely. To remove it completely will take much more work as you will have to disconnect brake lines, or calipers etc.

It makes it easier if you can raise the engine a little (loosen engine mounts) and raise it about an inch. While you're there, you may as well replace engine mounts if they're bad.

I don't see a need to disconnect fuel lines at all.

**** If you do end up doing the oil pan gasket, check the Oil Pump Nut. Chances are that it's loose, and on it's way for failure. Weld it, secure it with wire, locktite it, or something to make sure that it will not fall off and cause engine failure! Mine required 2 gentle finger flicks and it fell into my hand.

But of course, check all possible sites of leaks first before doing this job. Leaked oil just LOVES to ride along the seam of the engine and oil pan, causing you to think it's oil pan leaking.

Check your oil filter housing gaskets first. Those are notorious to leak after ~90,000 miles, especially in the cold. The rubber gasket turns rock hard and then shrinks in the cold. It's a much easier job than an oil pan gasket.

+1 had to do this because my oil pump nut came off (no leak). TRM in ATL sent me a new nut with pre-attached safety wire, worked like a charm. Also installed new motor mounts, definitely worth it. Only thing I might add is to use a gasket sealant in addition to the gasket. Only leak I've had came from valve cover gasket, so definitely look for other sources.

[mpire]

Oh yeah, the valve cover gasket leaks in the back pretty bad too when it goes.

On my 2.8, I have replaced:

Oil filter housing gasket
Air/Oil Separator
Valve cover gasket

All were leaking.

[Randy Forbes]

I just did this yesterday.

I leave the struts attached at the top, and don't disconnect ANY of the power steering hoses. Remove the X-brace under the car; undo the four (4) nuts holding the swaybar to the body; remove the two (2) bolts holding the steering rack to the xmbr; MARK the steering column (I use an automatic center punch) where it enters the U-joint, then remove the one (1) bolt. Slide the steering rack forward and use bungy cords to hold it out of your way.

Unbolt the power steering pump from the engine, remove the belt first (the oil pan won't clear the pump, so it has to be removed) and tie it out of your way.

Support the xmbr with a jack; undo the two (2) bolts on each lower control arm at the "lolipops"; remove the four (4) bolts holding the xmbr to the body.

Now, you have complete access to the oil pan. I recommend that you use the TIS for your model to remove/replace the pan, as it may be different than the S-52/S-54 cars I work on. For them, you have to remove the smallest three (3) bellhousing bolts; remove the six (6) bolts holding the (round plate) strainer to the oil pan, undo the hose clamp for the drain pipe; undo the one (1) nut that secures the dipstick into the pan; possibly, depending on model, unplug the oil level sensor and airbox drain tube (S-54 only?).

More pictures here: http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/i.../SGCoupe-BRNGS

[Gibber66]

Randy to the rescue!...as always

[Randy Forbes]

Randy to the rescue!...as always

Except, I left out the part about removing the two (2) nuts on the motor mounts holding them to the xmbr...

I guess they would figure that out

[GAZ3]

Lots of good information. It does look like a project that will take me some time. I will definetly look into other potential sources of oil leaks such as the oil housing filter to ensure my leak source is not coming from another part and simply wetting oil pan gasket.

Thank you.

[saneesh8]

When doing the oil pan gasket replacement, what else other than engine mounts that should be replaced? The oil pump nut (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...ut/oilpumpnut/ ?). Oil nut is item 11 here -> http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6204 ?

Just curious to know.

I have 2000 2.3 (not M).

[rf900rkw]

Might be a good idea to replace the oil filter housing gasket, as it is the usual source of pan gasket leaks. I see no need to replace the pump nut on an automatic car.

[saneesh8]

Thanks Randy.. Mine is an automatic transmission. So only the gasket and engine mounts (mine is still the original).

Already replaced the OFHG some time back. No leak there. Also the VCG is replaced. It drips like 2-3 drops during weekends. Seeping through the gasket. Above the gasket area, it is dry. Car have ~130k on it now. Using 0W40 oil. I am waiting till summer to work on it.

[saneesh8]

Seems the leak is increased. It is 2-3 drops a day now. Leaking at the rear of the engine where it connects to the transmission (bell housing?). It is slowly seeping and collecting it as a drop. Also the front left area - when facing engine (it is wet there).

One thing i noticed is, when parked in the day time after 15 miles of driving, no leak (parked for 8 hours). But when parked outside at night, it leaks overnight. The cool climate is allowing the oil to leak? I really hope it is oil pan gasket or something easier than that and not the rear main seal.

Checked from the top. No leak from VCG and OFHG. The vanos high pressure hose is little wet and also the power steering reservoir. Cleaned them and waiting to see if that's what causing the leak. Need to check it in detail.

[rf900rkw]

Rear main seal leaks do not run uphill and against the wind. Neither do pan gasket leaks. I still say it's your oil filter housing gasket.

[saneesh8]

Thanks Randy. Let me double check. Will update.

[rf900rkw]

Look at it from underneath. The oil filter housing, block, and pan all meet just above the P/S pump. That is where the leak starts, then it uses the pan rail to wick across the front (down hill) and then to the back (again downhill, to finally drip off of the bellhousing.

[saneesh8]

Thanks for the info Randy. When i checked the OFHG, i was looking under the OFH towards rear. Not towards the front (where P/S pump is).

[saneesh8]

Checked from top (will do from underneath tomorrow morning).

1) Around the VANOS area, no leak
2) Around the VCG, no leak
3) P/S fluid reservoir - Is kind of wet. I guess very little via that hole on the top(the cap). Also checked the hoses underneath it. No leak. It is just collecting dust from the tiny amount of oil.
4) Rear of the engine and left side of the engine, as far as i can see, no leak
5) The vanos high pressure hose which goes from OFH to the VANOS, is leaking at both sides. At the VANOS area, it is just wet. I guess a tiny leak like P/S reservoir. But at the OFH area, i can see that is like soaked in oil.
6) Towards rear of engine close to the OFH and below, no leak.
7) Oil dipstick housing, gasket etc. No leak.

Tomorrow morning..will take pictures of as much as possible. Also from underneath.

[saneesh8]

Attachment 592146

Above.. leak at the VANOS hose. The OFH is also wet. Possibly from the oil from this. The hose, is never changed. Only the OFHG was changed before.

Below.. Area under OFH to the right (towards rear of engine). It is clean. I see pictures in the internet of this area collecting oil when OFHG is bad.
Attachment 592147

Also found that the oil is there on top of the oil pan gasket indicating the leak is some where up.

Attachment 592148

Attachment 592149

Attachment 592150

[T.Dot E30]

I wouldn't do anything until you grab some engine shampoo, pressure wash that thing from the bottom. Then go at it when some brake cleaner.

Once things and dry and clean, check back in a day or two, it'll be pretty apparent where the leak is.

[saneesh8]

It is not clear in the photo. But on top, from oil filter housing, the vanos hose is clearly wet. Thought of replacing it first. When replacing it, since it is open, clean everything and then watch. Already bought an engine degreaser.

The vanos hose is the only thing which can leak and is old. VCG, OFHG, CVV and hoses, vacuum lines etc were replaced 1-2 years back.

[LannVouivre]

Man, all this "the oil pan gasket never leaks" and yet that's the only thing on mine that was leaking. It feels like this always happens to me. "The oil pan gasket on '85 Tercels never leaks, it's RTV silicone sealed from the factory," and then I look at it and all the oil pan bolts are not even finger tight and there's some horrifying cork-RTV-rubber gasket monstrosity on there as well.


Anyway, had to do mine a few weeks ago and it was really awful to do on the driveway, in the cold, in the dark (sun set before I even got off work). Also didn't help that I had started it on a Sunday at 4 pm and always got home worn out.

[saneesh8]

Replaced the Vanos hose and its crush washers. It was clearly leaking. Also cleaned the area. Other than on top of the housing it self, there was no oil visible around that area. Checked all around housing. Also checked the VCG, CVV hoses etc. None are leaking.

Any way, it is still leaking. It is reduced. I guess there is one more place where it leaks. Same as again. Only when it cools at night, then next morning, one drop. I need to clean it thoroughly and check it again. Placed a cardboard and it is at rear left of the engine (when facing the car). Some where close to drain plug or behind it.

LannVouivre, at what mileage yours started leaking (oil pan gasket). Just want to know. Also was it leaking like a drop a day?

[mpire]

If you haven't replaced the oil filter housing gasket, it is 20 years old and leaking.

Not maybe leaking, but definitely absolutely positively leaking.

Its not hard to do and its a quick fix.

Pull air box, remove belt, remotve tensioner, then pull alternator, unbolt filter housing, replace gasket, reassemble. Probably 30-45 minutes at max.

It is slow leak, and it runs around the pan and looks like the pan is leaking.

If you have a constant pressure valve, it is also leaking. However, I think that's S54 exclusive.

[saneesh8]

mpire, the OFHG was replaced some time back. Also the whole CVV. I had to remove the intake to change the water pipes. At that time, i replaced them. Used genuine bmw OFHG. Also the VCG, VANOS seals etc are done like within last 10-15k. Only the vanos hose was old.

The oil on the cardboard was almost black color. When i replaced the VANOS hose last week, i replaced the oil also. Thinking may be this is some old oil left behind? I could be wrong.