DIY: e36 steering rack replacement with Rack Doctor rebuilt rack ***WITH PICS!***

[blueberry]

First, I tried posting this in the DIY section, but it wouldn't let me. Mods, feel free to move at will.


This is my first DIY, so if you need any clarification on anything, have any questions, or any suggestions, feel free to post up. Any and all advice appreciated. I tried searching for a DIY for a steering rack replacement, but couldn't find one. So I decided to make one for everyone else. Total project took about 2 hrs with having to stop to take pics every step. Not hard to do.

When I bought my 1993 325i a few months ago it had a slow leak from the seal around the splined shaft where the steering column meets the rack. Searched and found rebuilt units rangin from $500-$1,400. No thanks. Then off searching I found a thread that recommended www.rackdoctor.net. I checked out the site and placed an order for a rack. Then ordered a pair of Meyle outer tie rod ends from www.fcpeuro.com. Then picked up a new power steering reservior from my local dealer.

Costs:
1)Rebuilt steering rack -$129+$15 shipping+$75 refundable core charge+(I chose to purchase the $18 prepaid return shipping label since all quote I found were for over $25. Total investment into rack= $237 ($75 coming back so only really spent $162 shipped both ways)
2)Tie rod ends- $53 shipped
3)Reservior- $65 picked up

Total cost: $280 + ATF fluid from your local store


Order received by rack doctor quickly, I received confirmation email immediately, next day it was shipped out, and I received the rack 2-3 business days later. +1 great communication and +1 for fast shipping.

Tie rod ends were exact same as rack. +1 and +1 for that as well.

Here is what I received:

then this inside

opened up to find this

tie rods were as such:







Here we go:

Step 1) Pull car into work area. Jack front end up and USE JACKSTANDS to securely hold vehicle. NOT JUST THE JACK ITSELF.

Step 2) Engine off, key on: turn steering wheel all the way to one side to expose outer tie rods. Use 16mm wrench or ratchet with 16mm socket to remove nut


Step 3) Either use seperating fork to split the tierod from knuckle or, as i did, whack the knuckle (where the tie rod goes through) with a small mallet. My 3lb hand maul did the job to release it.


Step 4) Turn wheel all the way to the other side. Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the other side.


Step 5)Return steering wheel to "as straight as possible" position

Step 6) I didn't find an easy way to drain the system. If you know of a way please let me know and I will edit this post. I used a ratchet and a 19mm socket to remove the hose from rack to reservior. Have pan ready, as fluid will begin flowing.


Step 7) Since I am replacing my reservior as well: Take 1/4" ratchet with a deep 6mm socket and loosen both hose clamps on the bottom of reservior.


Step 8) Remove reservior. I believe it is a 10mm bolt holding the clamp around the reservior.

Step 9) Remove bolt in coupler from steering column to rack. YES you MUST remove the bolt, not just loosen it. there is a slot/groove for the bolt to go in which will not allow the rack to be seperated from the column unless you remove the bolt. 13mm bolt and nut on that.


Step 10) Remove 2 mounting bolts. They are bolts with nuts on the top side. Mine were 16mm bolts on the bottom and 15mm nuts on the top side.



STOP!!!!! USEFUL ADVICE HERE!!!
***Make sure the steering wheel is still as centered as possible. Remember the position of the coupler for reinstall to try to keep the wheel as straight as possible. I eye balled it and was pretty close.

Step 11) PULL. Now that everything is loose/removed/not attached...pull. Removal and reinstall of column to rack was the hardest part of the job for me. I used a variety of flat heads and pry bars to be able to wiggle the shaft out of the coupler.

Great, now your rack is out of the car. Lay it on the ground and lay the new one next to it. Inspect and make sure its the same. Now its time to begine swapping parts.


Step 12) I bought new tie rod ends and they did not come with retaining nuts for the inside. So in my case I needed to remove the old tie rod ends anyways. Crack the nut loose. If I remember correctly its a 22mm or 24mm nut. If someone needs to know exact I can check and let you know. One wrench on the nut, the other on the 2 flat spots on the shaft of the tie rod. *Tech Tip: Only loosen one half turn. It will give you the best idea of how far to install the tie rods on your new rack.


Step 13) Spin tie rod end off. Count how many times you make a full rotation. This will help keep you relatively close to straight when it goes back on. I counted 21 full turns on each side.

Step 14) Repeat steps 12 and 13 to other tie rod end.

Step 15) Measure from back side of nut to end of tie rod. Spin the nut off. Then Spin the nut back on the new rack until its at the same measurement. Repeat other side.


Step 16) Install tie rod ends. Spin them on. should be the same number of turns it took to take them off. Mine were 21 full spins. Repeat other side.


Step 17) Remove cooler from rack. 2 10mm bolts hold it in place along with a 22mm bango bolt. Remove bolts, remove cooler, reinstall cooler on new rack in same position.




Step 18) Install new reservior. Heres a pic of new next to old. Remove caps, place back inside clamp on side of engine. Tighten 10mm bolt in clamp to hold it in place.


Step 19) Reattach hoses to reservior.

To reinstall rack, reverse order of removal.

Make sure column is as close to same position as when you removed the rack from in. Also make sure the tie rods are about equally centered when you slide it back into the column.

Don't forget to tighten nuts on inside of tie rods and nuts that hold tie rod to knuckle. Also use new crush washers on banjo bolts. Real oem will have you exact part numbers.

Fill reservior with new ATF FLUID! With engine off and key on, spin the wheel back and forth all the way a few times. make sure its full, then start the engine and let it run for a minute to cycle fluid through pump. check level and top off.


Now go get a proper alignment done. I'm taking mine to Firestone. They have a deal going for about $180 and you get free alignments for the life of the car. If you get a 2nd one while you own the car, it more than pays for it. Thats the route im going since I will be rebuilding front and rear suspension and will require alignments after those as well.



Any questions, comments, concerns, worries, suggestions? Feel free to post, comment, or pm me and I will address them and edite post if needed. Thanks All!

Enjoy your new steering rack!

FOLLOW UP 10 MINS LATER:

When I got done and took it for a drive, both of my wheels were slightly toe'd in. Wheel shook badly and it had wicked bump steer. Got home. I jacked it up, removed wheels, dropped tie rods, loosed nuts, then spun the tie rods out a turn at a time until the rotor appeared straight. then I did it to the other side while making sure the steering wheel was still straight. I installed tie rods back on knuckles, then used a tape measure to check distance from rotors drivers to passengers. I frist measured the front edge of rotor, then the back edge of rotor. they were within 1/16" so I said it was close enough. Test drove it and it drives much better and has a very slight pull to the right. that might actually be the banking of the road I'm on. Time for an actual professional alignment.

[e30azn]

is this same as 98 m3?

[mike318]

Blueberry: Nice DIY with pics too. I have had this big piece of rubber fall out of the back of the front axle support. It is listed as a BUMP STOP for my 96 318. Part 11811092184. It is not in view on yours and I wonder if you have one and the actual importance of it? Please coment and thanks in advance.

Mike318

[ducky328i]

that damn coupler has been a pain every time i've had my rack out...great write up, OP. you might add that this is an IDEAL time to replace the cooling /pressure hose assembly with a new OEM unit because that permanent fitting where it goes from brass to rubber is pretty infamous for being a source of leaks.

[blueberry]

oh. and i'll move this to the DIY section if you'd like.

Sure, that would be great

Can you emphasize a little more on step 9? (removing the rack from the column). I have done everything except for that, and I cannot seem to locate/undo it.

thank you

If you go under the car and find the steering column, follow it down about 2" above the rack. there you will see the big coupler that connects the column to the input shaft of the rack. There is a 13mm bolt and nut holding it in. You MUST take the bolt out to remove the rack. There is a slot on the input shaft that the bolt goes through. Impossible to remove rack without removing the bolt.




***Update***

Rack is holding up great, as are tie rod ends. Only issue is that upon install I did not spin the tie rods on evenly I guess, as when I turn the wheel to wheel lock on each side I get a grind underneath the car where it makes contact under the strut I believe. Other than that, it's great

[atlantisvip]

Been considering swapping the rack from my 318 parts car to my 325 or just getting a z3 rack. This is just the info I needed. Thanks!

[blueberry]

Yea I wish I would've gone with a Z3 rack. I didnt realize it was a direct swap until I had my rack here. Oh well, if this one goes bad, I know what I'm putting in.

[livefreeordie89]

can i send in my 318 rack as a core and get a z3 rack rebuilt?

[Moron95M3]

pretty sure you can't...



p.s. did my second steering rack using this DIY again. took 30 mins Great writeup here.


Also as a note, I had just done new tie rods (inner and outer) so all I had to do was remove the inner from the rack. I did have to take the tie rods apart though to get the inners back on the new rack, then assemble them with the outers. But I did not have to dick with even taking the outer ball joint off

[JETninja]

Thanks Kevlar for moving this thread into the DIY Forum!

Finished mine last night, had my Bimmer Neighbor Parts guy order me a Z3 1.9L Rack and they took my '95 M3 rack as the core no problem.

Question, The rubber line from the Loop Cooler that runs up to the Reservoir, what diameter is it? I cut off the crimp on the loop end hoping to replace it but Autozone was out of PS hose last night. Mine looks like 1/2" inner but its also 17 years old and may have been 3/8" at one point. Anyone know what inner diameter it is? I had to re-use the old one and it seeps up top...

[iverson03tj]

i hear the late model e46 330 racks are cheaper than the 95 m3 or the z3 rack, and it bolts right in, feels much better. you just gotta use e36 tie rods ... what do you guys think, because mine is in need of a change sometime soon...

[BlueMpoWer88]

this is what ive been looking for thanks alot im shipping my bmw back from ga and i need to replace the steering rack this will save me so much=]

[filmy]

As has been said many times, great DIY. I'm using this as the basis for my Rack Doctor swap this next week. Through others on Bf.c, I discovered something I didn't know, and that you didn't mention, so I'm adding a note to your DIY.

For correcting toe-in, you said:

...it had wicked bump steer. Got home. I jacked it up, removed wheels, dropped tie rods, loosed nuts, then spun the tie rods out a turn at a time...

You don't need to pop out the outer tie rod ball joints to do this - only need to loosen the jam nut and turn the inner tie rod (13mm open end wrench). The rubber accordion boot is designed to slip around the shaft of the inner rod, so hold that in place while turning with the wrench. You may have to break loose the two (inner and outer) tie rods from each other first if they're not new. I also learned that one full turn of the tie rod(s) is a lot, so being able to turn the inner tie rod by itself a quarter-turn at a time is ideal. And super easy to tweak (fine tune) without even jacking up the car.

Thanks again for the awesome write-up!

[dieseld]

If you believe your rack is bad but is NOT leaking on your E36. First ensure that the steering joint at the firewall is very well lubricated. When the joint becomes corroded it feels as if the steering rack has gone bad because it will be difficult to turn the steering wheel and the steering will literally lock or hold position while driving. 1st start with a light oil such as 30WT to fully lubricate the joint, once moving apply a coating of grease to the joint. This situation may be more common in areas where rust is a problem. I am not sure if this was mentioned previously but it is very important to ensure that rack to steering joint is reinstalled exactly as it was previously installed to ensure that the steering wheel is correctly positioned in the vehicle. Wheels / Rotors pointing straight and steering wheel oriented as if vehicle was going straight otherwise the steering will not be correctly oriented and cannot be corrected during alignment. The rack must be separated from the lower joint in order to correct an incorrectly oriented steering wheel after a rack replacement.

[Rack Doc]

i hear the late model e46 330 racks are cheaper than the 95 m3 or the z3 rack, and it bolts right in, feels much better. you just gotta use e36 tie rods ... what do you guys think, because mine is in need of a change sometime soon...

NO NO NO !!!!!!!!!! you cannot use e36 inners on an e46 rack the e46 inners are vented e36 inners on an e46 rack will collapse your bellows !!!!!!

Just thought I would chime in before this went viral and I had 1000 calls

[fuzz]

My rack from rack doctor will be here this week. The PO had a reman ZF rack installed but its not centered (a lot more threads on the right outer tie rod vs left) and the right wheel hits the inside of the wheel well before the lock.

How should I center this thing as best as possible before bringing it in for an alignment? I was thinking of measuring the threads on each side, adding them up and dividing by 2 and installing the new tie rod ends to that number. (ie if right has 2" and left has 1", install the new tie rods with 1.5" of thread on each side)

[RobertFontaine]

I just bought a remanufactured z3 rack for my M3. This thread has been added to my favourites.

Any differences when installing the Z3 rack?

[brandonwish]

I started this DIY today on my 97 M3. Ran into a few problems along the way. I suggest anyone planning on doing this to order new 24mm nuts and spacers. I can provide part numbers later if you need them. I will have to wait til Monday to run to the dealership to get them. Trust me it makes the job MUCH easier if you just order new ones. Another problem I ran into we're different clamps than shown to hold the ps hoses on the bottom of the reservoir. The clamps I had appeared to be factory and couldn't just unscrew. You had to literally cut them off which was a hassle to say the least. I will report back Monday after I finish the job with a more detailed description and pictures

[RobertFontaine]

Please quote part numbers my z3 rack is on a truck on its way to my garage.

[brandonwish]

Said part numbers for lock nuts and spacers:

2 each nuts part#32111136494
2 each spacers part#32111136179

[RobertFontaine]

My rack is in a box in the garage.
Power steering pump is at Greyhound.
PS reservoir relocate kit is in transit from MYMODS
... and the bolts/spacers are coming from Zygmunt. Stealer wanted 10$ per bolt.

Questions will be coming soon.

First naive question... Yes I opened the box... mmmm so clean.

How and when do you adjust the new rack so that it is aligned straight to match the centred steering wheel position? Looking at my "rack in the box" one side is straight and the other looks like it's set up for Nascar. When I look at the diy pics above the new rack is original oriented for a clown car so I know not to panic yet

[blueberry]

I counted how many full turns it took to get each tie rod end off, then put the new ones on the new rack that same number. It was a little off, but it gets you close. Just remember to keep the steering wheel as centered as possible

[brodaiga]

I ordered a 1999 rack, wanted to get the one with no boost. They send me one from 99-01 which was boosted. When I called saying I wanted the earlier one, guy said I did not specify and that I "was bitching about it." Their site had no place to specify the month. Guy went on to curse and said I could return this one with a big restocking fee, and they don't want my business. When I asked him why he was cursing and providing poor customer service, he dodged the question and said I "rolled the dice" by ordering online and not specifying. Would not even sell me the proper rack. WTF. I am returning the rack to the them and disputing on my card.

happened today, I am from e46fanatics, posting this out there.

[Rack Doc]

Hello,
MY name is Rich the Owner of Rack Doctor and an Avid BMW enthusiast. I would like to thank all the members of the forum for the years of business and 1000’s of racks I have sold to fellow forum members. BMW rack and pinions are among my favorite to build because we all at Rack Doctor are enthusiasts. While I have gained a great deal of knowledge from the forums for my own BMW projects at time we have to weed out what information we want to use and what we want to discard. When I am able to find someone with actual knowledge of a product and get them on the phone I am usually thrilled that I can ask a question and get an answer from someone with years of experience. Because I read a few threads on exhaust far from makes me an expert on exhaust. This being said……..

I would like to do a little recap. I did (personally) receive this phone call from the ......“gentleman” and allow me to explain the pace of the conversation. When a customer calls a business with an elevated and arrogant tone and claims “I ordered a rack for a 1999 E46 and you sent me a rack for a 1999-2001 E46 this rack is crap and completely useless to me “ this will normally set the tone for the rest of the conversation.

We shipped what the customer ordered by his own admission the customer went on to say he wanted a rack that was produced between January and April of 1999 We would have been more than happy to accommodate this customers needs as we stock all of the E46 racks. Rack Doctor’s Phone number is clearly marked on the web site. A simple pre sale phone call or even a note in the comments box at check out would have taken care of the customers desires. However because the customer has read a few threads on various forums he went ahead and ordered a rack for a 1999 E46 (that is what he did get) and hoped it would be an early production date unit. This is when he was told he rolled the dice rather than calling and now you are bitching about it as if it is the manufactures fault. The Customer was purchasing the unit to go into his 2001 E46 (NOT A 1999)

The conversation went on and as I made an attempt to help the customer asking if he would help with shipping costs or the cost of the core he was completely unwilling to accept any responsibility.

I have struggled over the years to keep our prices deeply discounted selling this unit for $164.95 with free shipping and a lifetime warranty. While many manufactures just lump all the E46’s together we have broken it down because I don’t think it is fair that someone with a 330 ZHP should have to pay more because there are people who want to upgrade. For this reason we do not swap cores if you want to upgrade your steering give us a call in 80 percent of the cases we will work with you to get you what you want in a deal that is fair to both of us. On some racks we can’t do this because the cores are just not available like on the Z3 upgrade, but a 99 E46 isn’t a problem LOL.

When asked about his core he went on to say that he was sending back his core and we “HAD TO ACCEPT IT” because it doesn’t say cores had to match on the web site. When I asked if he was ok with screwing us out of the core and the shipping he said “YUP” (FYI it does say cores must match in the TOS) this is the cussing he is referring to. I recently purchased an M3 engine for My Z3 I didn’t expect them to take my 2.8L engine as a core (why would I) we recently changed my partners transmission on his 99 E46 from automatic to manual transmission we did not expect them to accept his core why would we. However with a simple phone call I was able to work a deal where they simply purchased these units back at fair market core value.

The customer never mentioned “Over boosting” but claimed the turn ratio was different as I tried to explain the turn ratio is the same.... he went on to tell me how incorrect I was and didn’t know what I was taking about (I have been building rack and pinions since 1986 perhaps I missed the thread he gained his vast steering knowledge from)

This Customer wanted us to send him a rack only produced from January 1999 through April of 1999 (13 years ago) to upgrade his steering with no presale contact. Then expected us to accept any core he wanted to send back and when he did not get the specific rack he wanted. (because we can't read minds) expected us to pay shipping in both directions again all for $164.95 a unit through BMW that runs $1000.00 this is when he was welcomed to send the unit back. If he had been willing to help with shipping costs he would be getting the rack he wanted.

Many years ago I read an article that explained while we own a business we really work for our customers. I couldn’t agree more. However just like a business that has employees that do not perform to the bottom line will be fired there comes a time when you have to fire customers as well. This being said I did indeed tell the customer I did not want his business. I may go on to say the customer mentioned in his posting that “we would not even sell him the correct unit” so apparently it was not a problem with the quality just that he made an error and didn’t want to pay a dime to accept responsibility. At this point he started making threats and claiming he was going to put a dispute on his credit card by this time I had had enough and said send the unit back we DO NOT want your business. Years ago my father told me “never argue with an idiot because people will wonder who the idiot is” this saying has stuck with me through my life.

I have gone to great lengths to separate the units out by year so when you order a unit for your vehicle you will get what you ordered so the enthusiast with the 2003 330 ZHP rack doesn’t get a rack out for a 2000 323 rack I am more than happy to help people upgrade their steering systems but If I upgrade everyone at the same cost we will not be able to keep our pricing as low. Ironically for about $40.00 I would have upgraded him to a ZHP rack as I have done for so many on these forums already. The $40.00 is the difference in core cost (that’s MY cost)

When we order parts today it is a very Rare thing to get an owner or even someone with product knowledge on the phone, this I know because I order parts daily. When we do finally find a company that answers the phone insulting them is not usually a great way to try and get them to help you. to upgrade your vehicle. After 25 plus years in the steering industry being spoken too in an arrogant condescending way will always end with the same result and I would expect anyone who works with me or for me to handle the situation in the same manor.

As we order parts for our Bimmers and wonder why does this part cost so much there is a simple reason it is due to customers like this that drive the prices up for all of us in the end.

We thank you for the continued support of Rack Doctor Quality Steering units (at deeply discounted prices)

Rich
Aka The rack Doctor

[richt]

hey I was wondering if you have had any problems with your rebuilt rack since you did the install many years ago. Want to know how reliable these racks are from the Rack dr. I need one for my 99 M3.

Thanks