First off, I have tried the paint section. Post has been up almost a month. No responses.
Secondly, the issue: the metal trim on the roof running long ways (for the roof rack I can only imagine) is peeling. There are about 4-6 nickel sized spots where the black paint is coming up.
Best way to fix this? Trying to keep it from spreading. I'd love to paint it in if that's an option. What paint?
Thanks in advance.
Your best bet, to keep it looking good is sand the rest of it off the make sure u clean it thoroughly spray an etching primer down and go over that with what color u decide
CAR: 1998 bmw m3-Artic silver miles 145,000 Mods: head lights from DDM tuning, Active Auto works front strut bar, K&N full cold air intake system. full stromung exhaust, Vader seats, M50 manifold, 17"x8.5 BBS Hyper Blackaloy pedals, aftermarket stereo, 2x JL 10" competition subwoofers, my engine runs on ROYAL PURPEL!!!!!! BOOYAAHH
Plasti-dip is a good, rugged black paint option. I agree with the other guy, sand and spray.
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Okay so that entire strip (about 4-5 feet long) just pops right out? Inky held on by clips?
Any easy way to attack removing them? I'm going to just sand and paint them then. I have a good friend who paints and will do it at no cost to me as long as I prep it.
Might anyone know if this is covered under the CPO warranty as it's exterior trim? I find it hard to believe that paint "peeling" off isn't covered. It's just a manufacturers defect. The same goes for the interior paint peeling off I would think. My opinion anyways.
Last edited by millerb7; 08-05-2011 at 12:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Hey Miller...
Did that work out for you??
I have the SAME EXACT problem on my rack trim, a few months a clear coat looking layer started to peel off, then weeks after that the black paint started to come off.... now I have huge splotches up and down both sides of the rack. It looks so bad.
I can probably tackle this myself.
did the rack come off easily?
what did you use to sand, paint, seal it with??
any help woule be appreciated!! thanks!
NO help here, the same has happened to mine and it kind of just spreads over time. I do not know what shortcuts BMW thought was ok on trim but they made the wrong decisions in 2006. My gear knob has peeled and the leatherette looking covering in the interior [not seats] has turned white plastic from wear...
geez...
if you use plastidip you do not have to sand and prep. just spray it directly, the more coats you put on it the easier it is to take off the plastdip when YOU want to.
Just realized you all had bumped this back in April... I've been MIA for awhile.
Anyways, I actually didn't ever get to mine as I got so busy with a new house and all... but it's gotten WAY worse... all the black paint is almost off.
Next weekend I'm doing my oil, flushing my brake fluid, replacing my cabin air filter, and going to sand and spray these down.
As far as what to use, I'm just going to hit up my local store and nab some sandpaper and some exterior spray and do these up... it's driving me NUTS.
Well got around to doing this today. Used Plasti Dip. WOW. This stuff is amazing. Super intuitive and novice friendly to work with. I liked it so muh I pulled the chrome accents off the car and did those as well.
Tomorrow I'm doing my wheels gloss black.
Haha dont get carried away now! If you go to dipyourcar.com they have a lot of different colors to choose from tooOriginally Posted by millerb7
Side note: the more coats you put on, the longer it stays on & the easier it is to pull off when you dont want it anymore. I suggest you use a heat gun between each coat *dont get too close tho
Last edited by Polomotorsports; 07-28-2012 at 02:24 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You may have had the repair covered by BMW during the time that your vehicle was covered by CPO warranty, but it wasn't *technically* covered by CPO warranty, as CPO doesn't cover any trim items or paint. It's likely that if you're working with a competent dealer, they contacted their Area Manager and had the roof rail repair covered by a Goodwill warranty claim.
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Ebay headers | 2.5" cat-less exhaust | K&N intake | AA stage 1 software | UUC stage 1 light flywheel and clutch | UUC Evo 3 ssk | 3.38 diff | Driver Mod
Yeah, have been there... and... well..... I'm SUPER tempted to go gloss blue on my car with matte black rims... I dunno haha, we'll see.
For now though, all my trim is done and I'm doing my rims today. This stuff is really fun to use. Gloss is fun and different as most everybody just leaves the colors matte.
I just bought a 2006 325i on Friday and had this problem on the roof moldings. I stumbled across this forum post and read the suggestion of using Plasti Dip. Initially I was just going to have a body shop paint them but figured I would give this a try. I tackled the job today and took only about 2 hours including all the masking. I am really impressed with the results! I mean we're talking about a $6 can purchased at Lowes and a couple hours later my issue is fixed. I was going to post before and after pics but since I'm a new member it won't let me
Awesome! And the good thing is that you can do any kind of surface and still remove it afterwards.Originally Posted by Travelinsam
I came across this post and didn't see a "how to" so I made some pics as I did this on my 2007 328i coupe.
This is what the rails looked like originally:
I found this guys “how to” remove video and it was mostly helpful but there is an issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJZLxUbuU5I
The issue is that if you use a screwdriver to pry up the aft side, you will break off the little plastic pieces that are holding it on, see below for the unfortunate consequence.
The better method for removing the rails, is to flip open the little doors as shown in the video, and then use a wood dowel (or something suitable) and a hammer (or something suitably heavy) and put the dowel against the now exposed edge and tap the rails aft. After about half an inch you can just pop the rails out. This slides the entire rail past the embedded metal rail the clip is attached to.
Now that the rails are out, sand down the paint to get rid of the oxidized paint and the loose paint. I took the rails down to metal only partially, so some metal was exposed and some metal was left painted. If you are a super nerd, get rid of all of the paint. You will never get it all off because of the rubber seal that runs the length of the rail on both sides. People with OCD need not apply.
Clean up after sanding with mineral spirits. The cloth shown is what was left on the mineral spirit towel AFTER I wiped down the rails with a wet rag. Later when I was masking I saw I did not do a good job of getting the paint dust off the rubber (the tape wasn’t sticking), really pay attention to save yourself some heartache later in the masking.
So now mask the rubber so you don’t paint it. I don’t know if it’s bad to paint the rubber, but my heart says yes. Always follow your heart. Unless you want to major in art history, in that case listen to your dad and get a real degree.
So here’s the masking.
Here’s the painting
I did three coats of “insert big box store” primer and paint spray. I used a FLAT spray. I don’t remember if my car rails were gloss or flat, I figured I could see how it looked completed and repaint if needed.
FLAT matches the window seals right next to it, so it ended up OK. Do what you want.
Pulling the masking off. Three coats means three hours, I used that time to wash and polyseal the car paint.
Once the rails are dry, re-install. You don’t put the rails on by just reversing the removal. The aft flip cover has a little plastic clip that is too close the retainer clip for you to put the rails on one inch aft and then slide forward. The flip cover clip will interfere with the embedded metal rail on the car. See Pic #4. What you need to do is put the rail on FORWARD of the install position by half an inch (the front of the rail will almost touching the windshield glass) , press down across the rail fore and aft, and then slide the rail aft. It helps of the flip doors are open so you have something to push against. Hand pressure is all that is needed. The rail will snap back into place. Adjust the rail as needed so it is under the front windshield trim.
Enjoy!
Well, you all are much more patient than I am. I did a quick fix but think it turned out pretty great. I just cleaned the trim well and found some exterior carbon fiber trim (rubberized) at AutoZone for $9. Peel, stick, cut to size, done...5 minutes and I think it actually looks better than before. See pic and let me know what you think. Since this is an exterior trim with 3M tape and UV protection, I expect it will last a while...yes I did cover those access panel things but honestly, I don't expect to need to get to them and if I do...well, it's $4.50 a side.
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