Replace Conv. Top Micro Switch

[mitrebox1]

Does anyone know how? I can't figure out how or where to connect it to.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[mitrebox1]

C'mon guys! Hasn't anyone had to replace the micro-switch, ever??

[SunzOut]

So you can't find the old switch to remove ?

[mitrebox1]

No, I see the old switch, and a new one. Can't locate where to plug the new one in.

I'd rather have some help and knowledge rather than shooting from the hip on this one.

Thanks.

[IRPancake]

So you can see, thats a good first step.

1) look at new switch, note length of wire
2) look at old switch, follow wire that distance
3) find connector
4)
5) profit

[pangsterZ3]

So you can see, thats a good first step.

1) look at new switch, note length of wire
2) look at old switch, follow wire that distance
3) find connector
4)
5) profit

[mitrebox1]

So you can see, thats a good first step.

1) look at new switch, note length of wire
2) look at old switch, follow wire that distance
3) find connector
4)
5) profit

LOL! If it were that simple, I would not be enlisting your aid.

The wire goes into one of the mechanism pieces and disappears into the void.

I'm looking for help and guidance in finding out what I have to remove to find the end, opposite the switch, and where to connect it.

C'mon, give a guy a break.

[pangsterZ3]

I've never done this or even looked closely at mine.. BUT isn't it only held in place on the frame with 2 bolts (number 31 below):



It'd be unusual for the switch to have a long pigtail to plug in anywhere else.. are you sure the harness doesn't unplug or unclip from the microswitch??

[pangsterZ3]

EDIT: I just remembered when retrofitting my hardtop that there is a wiring loom that you run the harness off of for the rear demister switch.. fairly certain this is the harness that leads to the microswitch for the roof.. let me try and dig out some pics..

probably not the best picture - but this is with the side trim removed - you can (just) see where the braided cable runs from the microswitch/frame:

[mitrebox1]

Thank you for the pictures. They helped me locate where that wiring loom is.

Didn't have time to get into it today aside from looking. Autocross tomorrow. Maybe next weekend.

Again, thank you.

Stephen

[mherington]

Pangster, two words: Thank you.

I've been looking for that stupid connector for a while now, and I suspect it's the root of my top actuator problems. I'm going to rip into that area tomorrow and see what I can find. If I have success I'll post a howto with pictures, maybe borrow some of yours.

Again, thanks!

[pangsterZ3]

Thank you for the pictures. They helped me locate where that wiring loom is.

Didn't have time to get into it today aside from looking. Autocross tomorrow. Maybe next weekend.

Again, thank you.

Stephen

Pangster, two words: Thank you.

I've been looking for that stupid connector for a while now, and I suspect it's the root of my top actuator problems. I'm going to rip into that area tomorrow and see what I can find. If I have success I'll post a howto with pictures, maybe borrow some of yours.

Again, thanks!

No problem!!! Glad they helped!

[mherington]

A followup (not DIY-worthy as yet)... managed to get to the connector as described by Pangsters pictures. Unclipped the connector from the harness and tested the microswitch with a volt/ohm meter. Bingo! Flakey switch, Ohms would go from 0 to infinite and everywhere in between for no reason. Jumped the pins on the harness and the top would lift and lower on command.

So, now I need to order a new switch/wire and figure out how to install the thing. It's zip-tied in a few places along the top frame, and it runs inside the frame for a length. I'm not exactly sure how to get it back in to the frame once it's out. Any hints?

[mitrebox1]

A followup (not DIY-worthy as yet)... managed to get to the connector as described by Pangsters pictures. Unclipped the connector from the harness and tested the microswitch with a volt/ohm meter. Bingo! Flakey switch, Ohms would go from 0 to infinite and everywhere in between for no reason. Jumped the pins on the harness and the top would lift and lower on command.

So, now I need to order a new switch/wire and figure out how to install the thing. It's zip-tied in a few places along the top frame, and it runs inside the frame for a length. I'm not exactly sure how to get it back in to the frame once it's out. Any hints?

I also see the connector. Haven't had a chance to spend some time to get it unclipped, etc. I have a new micro-switch and it looks like it's going to be a bitch getting it installed.

I think that tying a string on the connector ends of the old one before pulling it out will enable getting the new one properly strung through the frame.

Looks like it's one of those one-hour jobs that's going to take a day to do.

Hope I'm surprised. Thank you Pangster for the help.

[mherington]

I agree on the string idea. That thought came to me late last night as I was drifting off to sleep (funny how the mind works). It's a simple, obvious solution. Just ordered the part, will try to have installed by the weekend.

[mitrebox1]

I agree on the string idea. That thought came to me late last night as I was drifting off to sleep (funny how the mind works). It's a simple, obvious solution. Just ordered the part, will try to have installed by the weekend.

Please let us know how it goes. I'm really interested and would appreciate learning from your experience. If you can take any photos and/or do a write-up, that would be a great help to me and to everyone else that will have to face this conundrum.

Thank you.

Stephen

[mherington]

Quick follow-up: It works! I replaced the "folding top micro switch" yesterday, and it has totally solved the problem. A few notes, then I'll make a better how-to soon:

1) The connector for the switch as shown in pangsters photos is buried under a wedge-shaped piece of trim that (in my case) took some effort to remove.
2) The replacement switch and wire DOES NOT come with the connector housing, just the actual pins soldered to the pigtail. This is OK, as the connector housing is fairly easy to disassemble, and you will need to take it apart anyway to fish the pigtail up through the frame.
3) The string and tape trick worked like a charm.
4) Be mindful of how the top frame folds up, it can pinch the pigtail in several places if not properly secured.
5) Test the switch before pulling it through the frame!

I'm thrilled to have a working top (it was a known issue when I bought the car). Now I need to install the replacement rear window...

[pangsterZ3]

Quick follow-up: It works! I replaced the "folding top micro switch" yesterday, and it has totally solved the problem. A few notes, then I'll make a better how-to soon:

1) The connector for the switch as shown in pangsters photos is buried under a wedge-shaped piece of trim that (in my case) took some effort to remove.
2) The replacement switch and wire DOES NOT come with the connector housing, just the actual pins soldered to the pigtail. This is OK, as the connector housing is fairly easy to disassemble, and you will need to take it apart anyway to fish the pigtail up through the frame.
3) The string and tape trick worked like a charm.
4) Be mindful of how the top frame folds up, it can pinch the pigtail in several places if not properly secured.
5) Test the switch before pulling it through the frame!

I'm thrilled to have a working top (it was a known issue when I bought the car). Now I need to install the replacement rear window...

Glad you got it sorted!!!

[Telecomtodd]

This is Week 2 with my '98 M Roadie fixer-upper. Thanks for this info, guys. I managed to not rip too much out trying to get to the switch plug, but finally got to it. While I knew the top was new, I wasn't prepared to find that the previous owner forgot to re-solder the 2-wire loom back together - he'd hacked them off to remove the top (along with a new microswitch), but the plug now has two wires cut at about 3 inches from the connector. Off to solder ot back together and see if the pump is working after all!

[mitrebox1]

I also see the connector. Haven't had a chance to spend some time to get it unclipped, etc. I have a new micro-switch and it looks like it's going to be a bitch getting it installed.

I think that tying a string on the connector ends of the old one before pulling it out will enable getting the new one properly strung through the frame.

Looks like it's one of those one-hour jobs that's going to take a day to do.

Hope I'm surprised. Thank you Pangster for the help.

Like I said about the one-hour job... Took about four hours. Thanks to Ken's help and ingenuity, we managed to get the thing installed. Getting the old connectors out of the plug block was rather simple; just pushed the connectors out with a really small screwdriver.

The string thing worked. Have to tape the new wire to the string using tape sparingly or it won't fit through the holes in the frame. Used the outer mesh sheathing as a kind of "Japanese handcuff," (Ken's idea) taped to the string to pull the wires through the hollow frame piece. In all, it was a real PITA, but the job is done, the top works and I'm happy with the outcome.

Could not, for the life of me, figure out how to get the interior trim off for better access. One of those secrets that only the dealers know, I guess. Would have made the job a one hour process.b


Thanks again, Ken!!

[Bimmerman4ever]

Quick follow-up: It works! I replaced the "folding top micro switch" yesterday, and it has totally solved the problem. A few notes, then I'll make a better how-to soon:

1) The connector for the switch as shown in pangsters photos is buried under a wedge-shaped piece of trim that (in my case) took some effort to remove.
2) The replacement switch and wire DOES NOT come with the connector housing, just the actual pins soldered to the pigtail. This is OK, as the connector housing is fairly easy to disassemble, and you will need to take it apart anyway to fish the pigtail up through the frame.
3) The string and tape trick worked like a charm.
4) Be mindful of how the top frame folds up, it can pinch the pigtail in several places if not properly secured.
5) Test the switch before pulling it through the frame!

I'm thrilled to have a working top (it was a known issue when I bought the car). Now I need to install the replacement rear window...

Could a quick fix be just connecting the two wires together (jumper) that go to the micro switch?

[magnetchief]

Could a quick fix be just connecting the two wires together (jumper) that go to the micro switch?

That’s exactly why I did.
Cut the wires by the switch and soldered the wires together.
A little heat shrink and it’s all set.

Haven’t looked back.
Was meaning to solder in a new switch. But honestly can’t see the point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bimmerman4ever]

That’s exactly why I did.
Cut the wires by the switch and soldered the wires together.
A little heat shrink and it’s all set.

Haven’t looked back.
Was meaning to solder in a new switch. But honestly can’t see the point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh OK I guess I got confusing between "micro switch" and the actual switch in the console that you press to make the top go up and down