Hi bro, thank you for your quick respond.....
well I do not have a turbo engine.... my engine are NA engine, I have a m52TUB30, the TU its for Technical Update not for turbo.....
I use to have a m52TUB25 motor (523i, or the same motor that have in the e46 323i), and I stroke my motor to a b30 specs (aka m54b30, or 530i), I put the crankshaft/camshafts/pistons/rod from the m54b30 motor, I overhaul complete my motor.......
So, today I did an experiment, I take off the PCV from the line that go from the Catch Can to the Intake Manifold, and guess what, no more oil coming out from the oil fill cap.....
So I think, my problem was that I do not have a free line from the Catch Can to the Intake Manifold.....
tomorrow I will take off also the T line that I put to the second inlet in the intake Manifold...... and see what happen.........
E39, 523i, 1999, M52TUB30, 5 SPEED MANUAL, UUC SHORT SHIFTER, EURO SPECS, KONI YELLOWS, OEM SPORTS SPRINGS, OEM SPORTS SEATS, ALCANTARA HEADLINER AND /A/B/C PILLARS, OEM M-TECHNIC AERODYNAMIC, OEM M5 FRONT GRILLS, OEM M5 REAR FOLDING MIRRORS, OEM M5 REAR SWAYBAR, OEM M-TECHNIC II FRONT SWAYBAR, REMUS DUAL TIP MUFFLER, TITANSILVER, BIXENON, M PARALLEL SPOKE 66 STAGGERED, OEM M-AUDIO SYSTEM, NAV SCREEN 16:9, INTRAVEE II iPOD INTERFACE, OEM TCM WITH BLUETOOTH, Y RESONATOR DELETE, INTAKE HORN DELETE, CDV DELETE, CHARCOAL TITANIUM BRUSHED TRIM, FAN CLUTCH DELETE, ELECTRIC FAN, 3.15LSD DIFFERENTIAL, ESS TS2+ SUPERCHARGER, AQUAMIST METHANOL + WATER INJECTION
PANAMA, CIUDAD DE PANAMA
OK, my mistake. I did not understand the nomenclature you used to describe the modified engine.
In any case, if removing the PCV eliminates the pressure in the crankcase, the PCV is either too small (which seems almost impossible based on my experience), was installed backwards, or has simply failed. Regardless, having the wide open line connection you have between the crankcase and the intake means that you are introducing a lot of vacuum, and more importantly I think, the transitions between different vacuum states will be rapid. I would strongly advise doing some diagnostics on just what sort of vacuum is being drawn in normal driving conditions so that you can determine if you need a restrictor plate or some other limiter to moderate the vacuum in the crankcase.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Thanks 02Pilot.... I think my PCV are installed correctly (I follow another DIY with the same PCV http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=601440)....
I will do a vacuum test in my crankcase......
Now, I feel my motor more stronger, I mean, if I press the accelerator pedal, my car now respond more quickly.....
thanks for your help and time...
E39, 523i, 1999, M52TUB30, 5 SPEED MANUAL, UUC SHORT SHIFTER, EURO SPECS, KONI YELLOWS, OEM SPORTS SPRINGS, OEM SPORTS SEATS, ALCANTARA HEADLINER AND /A/B/C PILLARS, OEM M-TECHNIC AERODYNAMIC, OEM M5 FRONT GRILLS, OEM M5 REAR FOLDING MIRRORS, OEM M5 REAR SWAYBAR, OEM M-TECHNIC II FRONT SWAYBAR, REMUS DUAL TIP MUFFLER, TITANSILVER, BIXENON, M PARALLEL SPOKE 66 STAGGERED, OEM M-AUDIO SYSTEM, NAV SCREEN 16:9, INTRAVEE II iPOD INTERFACE, OEM TCM WITH BLUETOOTH, Y RESONATOR DELETE, INTAKE HORN DELETE, CDV DELETE, CHARCOAL TITANIUM BRUSHED TRIM, FAN CLUTCH DELETE, ELECTRIC FAN, 3.15LSD DIFFERENTIAL, ESS TS2+ SUPERCHARGER, AQUAMIST METHANOL + WATER INJECTION
PANAMA, CIUDAD DE PANAMA
Great thread, interesting read.
I am surprised there isn't a photo in this entire thread showing this new vaccum line attached to the CCV and then to the back of the manifold.
Is it possible to add this vaccum line to the CCV without completely removing it to do so? I assume the answer is no as I just installed a new CCV and newly designed dipstick, the CCV is somewhat hidden.....
I'm assuming the intake manifold needs removal to add vacuum line? Seems pretty tight down there.
I have a spare manifold, but can't figure out where on it the line is connected
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Peter Florance
PFTuning.com
I have a spare manifold too..... maybe I can take a look too.
Attaching the new line to the back of the intake manifold is easy - from the driver's side of the car, reach behind the manifold and you will feel two nipples which (hopefully) have vacuum caps on them. Remove the smaller cap - that's where the line goes. You might want to replace the larger cap, as it very likely has split and is causing a vacuum leak.
Attaching the other end is more involved. You might be able to do it without removing more than the air filter housing, AFM, and the rest of the pre-throttle intake tract, but more likely you'll need to pull the throttle body as well (unless your hands are smaller and more limber than mine). You might get access from the front by removing the oil filter housing, but this would be less direct and really only an option if you needed to replace the OFH gasket anyway.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
When this post first came out over a year ago, and Chris was talking about using a Slack-tube manometer, I had always wanted to make one. Well I finally did today, and had to explain it to a couple of the mechanic around the shop what is was for.
The items I used to make it:
1- BMW oil cap
2- I long rubber valve stem
3- 6ft of clear air hose
4- electrical tape
5- Paint pen
I drilled off center of the oil cap and fitted the valve stem with the core removed. Next I cleaned out the air hose line and put in some windex. Then I bent the tube into a "U" shape with 30 inches on each side so I had excess to put onto the cap. I then marked 10-1 inche marks to denote the vacuum pressure.
My test car was a 98 528i M52 motor, and it pulled 4 inches of water, so it worked like a champ!
Thanks again Chris for the explaination of this tool.
P050713_11.39.jpgP050713_11.39_[01].jpgP050713_11.40.jpg
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Hello 02Pilot. Any updates after a year? I am curious what the oil consumption is now during the warm months. My car is without shocks since July (sent the PSS9 for service, and still didn't receive them back), so I don't know how the "mod" works in warm weather. I know I had an increased oil consumption in warm weather with the cold weather CCV. Go figure. Thanks
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.
My last update was with my last oil change, in April of this year; it's back about a page or so, post #173. Oil consumption has remained low, though I've only put on a few thousand miles since that update, as my car was also down for a while with suspension issues that took longer than I would have liked to resolve.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Thank you that's perfect.
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Peter Florance
PFTuning.com
You're welcome!
I think I may tackle this myself, might need to use some long needle nose piers to slide the tubing on the CCV
Tackled this a few minutes ago.
The CCV connection can be accessed without removing it. You will need some long needle nose pliers and a long screwdriver. The long screwdriver was needed to hold the foam covering out of the way to access the rubber cap on the CCV. I used the needle nose to pull the rubber cap off.
In regards to the connection to the back of the manifold, there is a cap located on this inlet that I have circled. Remove the cap, plug in the new vacuum line.
Topped off the the oil, odometer reads 171706, will report back with oil consumption or hopefully lack thereof !
Update,
Just put in my first quart. Made it to the 2000 mile mark!
That's impressive as it used to be 1000 mile per quart. This last 2000 miles included a 700 mile round-trip of highway driving as well. I assume I can exceed the 2000 mile mark with more normal driving
If my experience is any guide, your consumption will continue to decline. On my last 5k mile OCI I did not add any oil, and the level was within a few millimeters of the full mark on the dipstick at the end of the interval. I do think, however, that going to the heavier-in-grade Mobil1 10w40 High Mileage oil (which is ACEA A3/B3 and A3/B4) also contributed.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
is 10W40 okay for my 530?
LL01 is derived from ACEA A3/B3, which is why I mentioned it. Some might consider using 10w40 a bad idea; I am not one of them. I will not turn this into an endless oil argument thread - the choice is yours, caveat emptor, YMMV, etc....
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
^^^ are you using the 10w40 in the E39 too? Even in the winter?
O2Pilot, Thanks for the updates and very glad to hear the mod is helping lower oil consumption.
I changed my day job role last Fall and started volunteering weekends in my community which leaves little time to work on the cars.
Between that and my son now driving the 01 530i, I have not been able to do your mod nor track oil consumption closely.
He does drive it longer distances but it still consumes oil at an excessive rate compared to the 02 530i even though we used 5W50 oil.
One thing I noticed is that when the 02/530 engine is shutoff, it makes a sound like an air discharge and I cannot recall ever hearing that on the 01/530.
The 02 530 MY car consumed about a quart over 5K miles this past summer which is very acceptable using 5W50 Castrol.
Does that say any something about the tightness of those engines (rings, seals, valves etc) relative to my 01 whose pressure/vaccum seems out of balance?
Couldn't say what, if anything, is different between 01-and 02-built engines. I will, however, take the opportunity to report that oil consumption has reached as close to perfect as possible: my last change showed no measurable oil consumption after 5k miles. This is again with the Mobil1 High Mileage 10w40 and the vacuum modification in place. So my only advice is to take a couple hours and do the modification - the results, at least in my case, more than justify the time and effort.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Thank you, 02Pilot, for continuing to maintain and update this thread! It's so long now that I'm sure I've said this before: but it sure seems to me that the old systems worked very damned well; my old big six cars just had a well baffled valvecover, and a single tube to the intake, pre-throttle body. Now I see direct-injection cars with the cylinder head intake ports completely clogged by oil vapors, and BMW has to blast them with walnut shells! Something wrong with this picture?
I mean, the systems now might work very well to prevent pollution, when they're working properly -- but I wonder if anyone's measured the counter-forces of all the cars that are consuming a quart every thousand miles?
Realistically, if the true purpose were to reduce hydrocarbons being released to the atmosphere, perhaps BMW should ask Toyota how to make gaskets? All that oil leaking out of the BMW's valvecovers and OFHGaskets can't be doing the environment any good.....
(No, I don't care for Toyotas, personally, because they have no soul; but I've seen 150-200k Toyotas and Hondas that didn't leak anything, anywhere. I don't think I can say the same about any old German car, except those with a bunch of recent and regular maintenance. Let's not even get into the power steering systems!
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
It makes you wonder just how many engineers built some of these ridiculous "answers to questions no one asked" systems solely to justify their salaries to their employers. Add a heaping helping of ill-conceived, poorly implemented government regulation and I think the picture starts to become clearer. The problem is that clarity only makes you realize just how stupid things really are.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
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