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Thread: Converting to a 6spd - Factoids/FAQ

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    Post Converting to a 6spd - Factoids/FAQ

    6 Speed Conversion Factoids/FAQ
    As the subject of converting an e38 to a manual transmission (6 speed, 6spd) comes up every now and again, and discussion usually winds up in the middle of another thread, thought I’d gather some information and put it in one place. Luke did this once before, it’s in one of the links below.

    This is not a ‘How to’ set of instructions but rather it is some snippets of information gathered and exchanged with others that will allow you to understand what is involved in doing the swap and what you may encounter.
    This may be old hat for some and new for others. Not saying that all of my observations/musings are right either. Its just what I have found from doing the conversion and successfully coded/programmed (more than once and in more than one combination) my car and assisted others. Your experience and opinions may vary.

    First off get a copy or bookmark an online copy of the WDS. WDS is your friend. Also the WDS is not a wiring bible but rather a reference resource. There are mistakes in it. BMW likes to do upgrades every 3 to 6 months so depending on your cars MFD you may have to do a little digging to find the right diagram(s).

    Some links on the subject for light reading. Some of the threads also contain search suggestions for finding information. AKA Bimmerfixr, AwesomeisLuke, UUC, CDH
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...highlight=6spd
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...highlight=6spd
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...highlight=6spd
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...highlight=6spd
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...highlight=6spd
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=cdh
    His awesomeness Luke’s parts list thread
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=cdh

    Factoids- In no particular order
    BMW manual transmissions are life time fill on the fluid the same as the automatics. That means you may encounter issues with older units. I only recall reading a couple of articles on the S6S420G trans. One was to do with bearing wear in 2nd gear and the other was the problem with the arrester ball guide (also referred to as shift detents by some) becoming disengaged causing increased effort to change out of 3rd gear. Trans changed from arrester balls to arrester sleeves around ’00. Worth putting in a repair kit with the new style, part number is 23 31 7 506 947. All in all, fairly robust trans if it has been looked after. Personally would avoid a used trans from a vehicle that has suffered direct front or rear damaged that could affect trans. Input or output shafts stressed/moved around.

    M60 was available from MFD of 0394 to 0396 with a manual trans. Vehicle type code of GF51.
    M62 was available from MFD of 0394 to 0998 with a manual trans. Vehicle type code of GF71.
    Coding car to a manual trans is just that, a manual trans. Number of gears has no effect on coding and vicy versy. If your MFD is 0998 or older, simpler (read cheaper) to code car to ECE spec and change DME program to ECE as well. Providing that the VIN in the IKE matches the car (no tamper dot to put it simply) you can have a dealer with Progman/GT1 code the car. Not sure about ISIS as it is a tad temperamental with older models. Or find an Indy with Autologic to do the coding. You would of course have to provide the ZCS code that you wanted put in the car as the chances of the dealer being able to provide this are very slim (even if they contact the RTA). Wrote a document for one board member to take to the dealer to get the coding done via Progman. Can dig it out.

    Check the WDS for your MFD starter circuit. Manual trans e38's do not have the computer controlled soft start (as in M62, M62TU). This may bite you in the arse once the ZCS code is changed. To make it equal for both models, M60 will have a GM that will be 41510003x and the M62 will have a GM that will be 41710003x. 3 is for english and x will be the required check digit.
    If your are going to code your car to a reflect the trans swap, you don't touch the existing reverse wiring. You wire up the reverse switch on the manual trans to the IKE and ground. The IKE will tell the LKM when reverse is selected.

    Changing the ZCS code will get rid of the trans fail msg and give you reverse signaling from the IKE. You will now be able to have the DME re-programmed to that of a manual trans 740 to get rid of the check engine/SES light. Dealer should know how to do this one. If not let me know.

    ZCS is made up of 3 parts - GM, SA and VN. GM is only part that has to change. There is no manual trans SA number for an e38 or e39 like the e46 as some believe.

    As a note. Using 'standard' coding methods, read GT1, Autologic or Progman. To code an e38 DME to that of an e39 would require the ZCS code to be changed to reflect the model change as well. To change the ZCS code in the IKE to that of an e39 would require a change of the VIN. To change the VIN requires an uncoded IKE. So the popular statement of 'code the car to an e39' is not as simple or cost effective as it made out to be. Only aware of a couple of cars that have been changed over this way.

    The ZCS is stored in the IKE (change/swap in a used IKE and when you read it you get it's ZCS). The IKE is the bridge for the various bus's in the car. The other modules in the car will make reference to it when they are coded. Basically when coding other modules they will read the SA portion of the ZCS code and depending on the module level, may update the VN part of the ZCS. If you code a retrofit/upgrade to the car then the ZCS will be updated to reflect the option change. Usually the change will be in the SA portion but not always. This is kind of over simplified and generalized, but it should help you get the concept.

    When you go to install the manual trans cross member you will discover that there is only 4 bolts holes instead of 6. Your choice if you want to fabricate up tabs and attach (weld, bond) them to the car. I did not and have had no issues after 4 years. When I talked to Brett at KMS about this, he mentioned that they had not installed the tabs for a bit. Cannot speak for what VAC does.

    The driveshaft for the ‘I’ is a standard OEM part that can be ordered in. The ‘iL’ requires a custom shaft. See above links for dimensions. Your choice on how you go about this. I choose to go with a complete new one of shaft with .080 thicker wall tubing. Just because.

    The ‘iL’ model may or may not have the shifter support bracket, called a Bracket for shifting arm bearing. Part number is 41 12 8 246 251. This is located on the underside of the trans tunnel just behind the shifter opening. Picture of bracket below. Bracket is spot welded on the car but could be attached with panel bond adhesive.

    FAQ's

    Do I need to recode the car? This is a depends answer. If you are OK with the CEL/SES being lit and the trans warning message. Then no, you do not need to code the car. Do the four (IIRC) wire twist to make the trans ECU think its in park and you can shift off into the sunset.

    Can I just program the DME to an e39 manual and code out the warning message in the LKM? In theory, yes. Your results will vary depending on the Coding Index (CI)/software revision of the IKE/KMBI. One result that I ran into with having the DME as an e39 and the IKE as an e38 is that the DME would not signal the A/C compressor to turn on. Since my cluster was replaced, it has the latest CI.

    Can I just recode the car to a manual e39 and be done with it? Not a good idea. BMW software will not allow this since the VIN will not match the ZCS code you are trying to code to. And if you are persistent and do get around this, the e38 and e39 have different SA structures in the ZCS. This means strange and wonderful things happen to your other modules. This will waste some time to get your car sorted back out again. Been there, done that.

    Can I just swap over all of the parts from a manual e39? You can. Shifter support arm will fit but be about 5/8 inch short. Shifter will not be centered in opening but right at the front of the trans tunnel opening. See Luke’s list for parts. There a couple of items that are 7 specific.

    Is there an OEM drive shaft? Yes for the 'i' model. Part Number is 26 10 1 227 959.

    Do I need to keep the automatic transmission cooler and cooler lines? No, you can remove them.

    If I think of other items I'll add them to the post. Now for the fun bit, pics.

    Note last pic in series below is of the shifter support arm bearing bracket.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by cdh; 02-06-2011 at 11:18 AM. Reason: Adding further information

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    Part Two of the Pics
    First pic in series below shows the location of the sifter arm bearing support.

    Third pic shows the e39 shifter support arm installed (e38 one had yet to show up). Notice how far forward the shifter is.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Wiring Fun Facts - comments here are targeted to e38's of the M62 engine type up to 9/98. Process will work on others with appropriate changes for model year changes.

    Quick and dirty engine start wiring – take the Automatic Transmission range switch (connector X8532) and using a method of your choice, join wires from pins 1,2,4 and 5 together. You have now hard wired the car to think the auto transmission is in park. Car will now start.

    WDS terms (refresher for some) – Terminal 15 = Ignition switch power, Terminal 30 = Battery power, L2 power or position = Transmission in Park or Neutral, Pin Type 'E' = Enter, Pin Type 'A' = Exit (believe the German is Einfahrt and Ausfahrt).

    There are a couple of ways to approach the wiring changes. One – park car, change cars coding and programming over to that of a manual transmission car, make wiring changes, restart car and enjoy or trouble shoot why things are not working. Two – park car, make the wiring changes and test if changes work (car still starts and drives). Once you are done with the major wiring changes, proceed with recoding and programming car to manual transmission type. Once coded you can test if the remaining wiring changes work (reverse functions). I went with option Two, due to distance to any diag/coding device at the time and I did not want the cost of having to 'rent' floor space while I got things sorted out if I had f'd anything up. Only quirk with option two is that until the car is coded the EWS and DME have a slight 'lag' in communicating if one turns the ignition key from run position to start position too quickly. A hold at the run position for a second or two allowed the car to start with no issue. Note that at this point car starting circuit is wired for a manual transmission and car is still coded for an automatic transmission. Once car is properly coded you can turn the key as fast as you want with no issues.

    The Ignition switch, when the car is properly coded and wired to manual transmission, is carrying the current on terminal 30. The automatics ignition switch does not carry the current, only switches the internal relay in the the EWS. Again you have a couple of options here. One – change wiring to ignition switch to carry terminal 30 current to drive the starter circuit. Ignition switch should be replaced as eventually you will burn the contacts of the automatics ignition switch as the contacts were not meant to carry a terminal 30 current. Two – You can drive the starter circuit still using the automatics ignition switch. You have to ensure that current is still going through the EWS, not the ignition switch. L2 on the EWS will need to be fed 12V, but you need to do it in a way that does not inter fear with the cruise.
    More on this later.

    Later part.
    The contacts inside the two ignition switches are different. Hence the different part numbers. Also if you are curious you can cut them apart to have a look if you have some spares (did that). Now if you decide to change over to the manual ignition switch the first thing that you will notice is that the socket for where the wiring harness connects to is different from that of the automatics ignition switch. In other words the wiring harness connector that plugs into the automatics ignition switch will not plug into the manuals ignition switch. To fix this little problem you will need to order part 61 13 1 393 790 (you will not find this part in the ETK, but it is a valid number). This part is the manual wiring harness end. Simple take the wires out of the old automatic connector and put them into the new manual connector. It is a direct one to one change over for the wires.

    Wiring/wires. If you are not planning on putting the automatic transmission back in the car at a later date then the simplest method of doing the wiring is to reuse the wiring already in place. No need to run a bunch of new wires.

    Reverse Circuit
    On the IKE take pin 13 out of connector X10113 change the end and put it in pin 25 on connector X10114. This wire is the transmission position indicator. It comes out of the AGS connector X8600 on pin 25 and goes to X21, one of the in-line engine connector in the e-box. It comes into X21 in location 5 as the pin part. The socket part is the wire that runs to the IKE. Now to make this wire the reverse signal, take the socket wire out of X21 at location 5 and put it into the socket part of in-line connector X69 (also in e-box) at location 21 (back up light signal). Then take pin 1 from connector X8524 on the reverse switch S8524 and put it in the pin part of location 21 on X69. Pin 2 from X8524 goes to ground at connector X6458. You now have the reverse circuit done and in the proper connector locations for future reference. This circuit will not be active until the ZCS code is changed. Once that is done the IKE will provide the signal to the LCM etc. that reverse gear has been selected.

    Starter circuit. Part one the relay.
    With the M62 the soft start feature was introduced. Driver simply has to turn key to start position then release and the DME looks after cranking the engine over until it starts. Nice feature on the automatic cars. Not available on manual transmission cars. Hence why if you change the DME program over to that of a manual transmission, car no longer will start as DME no longer cares about cranking the starter. For those following along in the WDS the starter relay is K6324. You will see that connector X6324 has 4 wires. Pin 2 is the signal (terminal 50) to the starter (pin 87 on relay), Pin 4 is the start signal from the DME (pin 85 on relay), Pin 6 is the starter signal from the EWS (pin 86 on the relay)and Pin 8 is the L2 signal from S8532 the automatic transmission range switch (pin 30 on the relay). Recall from above that L2 indicates that transmission is in park or neutral. Simple terms this means that the EWS provides power to the starter when switched by the DME and automatic transmission range switch. So since you want to convert the car completely over to a manual transmission type, you have a couple of choices (three actually). Two will be covered off here. Option one – remove the starter relay and replace with a solid relay, part number 61 36 8 366 282 (called a connection plug), that just bridges pins 6 and 2 on connector X6324. Change the wiring on the ignition switch to have the ignition switch provide switched terminal 30 power to pin 6 on connector X6324. Rather involved option with having to route terminal 30 power to the ignition switch, ignition switch will definitely require changing, and some wiring changes are needed on the EWS. Option two – simply change the switching of the starter relay from the DME and automatic transmission range switch over to the start position on the existing automatics ignition switch. My personal choice. Since all the DME is providing is a switched ground signal (terminal 31) simply take the wire in pin 4 on X6324 and connect it to a good ground source. I used X6458, the same ground location for the reverse circuit. Next is to get terminal 15 power to pin 8 on X6324. Since the DME is no longer going to do the soft start procedure simply take the wire that goes to the DME from the ignition switch that signals the ignition switch in start position. This wire is located on X20 in the e-box in location 8. Take the wire that is in the pin part of the connector and route it to pin 8 on X6324. Peel back some wire tape to get some wire length. Starter relay is now wired to work off of the ignition switch being held in the start position.

    Starter circuit. Part Two, EWS, or getting power to the starter relay.
    As mentioned before the EWS in the automatic cars switches the power to the starter relay, when all things it looks for are met. One of the things that the EWS is looking for is L2 power from S8532, the automatic transmission range switch. Since you have converted over to a manual transmission this switch is not going to be of much use anymore. But part of it's circuit is still of use. Power to S8532 is provided by fuse 22 which is activated by terminal 15 power. So one can still provide L2 power to the EWS with a few wiring changes on the in-line engine connectors X20 and X21. F22 goes to splice connector X6836 in the e-box. You can locate the X6836 by following the wire from pin 5 in connector X8532 on S8532. Or trace the wire coming out of pin location 6 on connector X20 in the e-box. Once you have located the X6836 connector, use the wire that went to X8532 (should be green in colour) and route the wire to the in-line engine connector X21. Replace the wire in the pin portion (upper connector) in location 12 on X21. Wire being replaced was the signal from the automatic transmission range switch S8532. The socket (bottom part) of location 12 connects back to the EWS pin location 6 on connector X1659. You now have provided L2 power to the EWS when the key is turned on. Car will now start like a manual car even though it is still coded as an automatic. You can now recode the car to that of a manual transmission car at your leisure without fear of starting problems. Since the EWS is being provided a constant L2 power, you will have to remove the wire in pin location 7 on X1659. This wire runs to the cruise control module A8. Prevents engagement of cruise in park or neutral one can presume. Since this wire runs to the cruise module, it can be re-used for cruise control wiring changes.

    Cruise Control
    Having completed the mechanical part of the manual transmission conversion you will have installed a clutch switch (part 61 31 8 360 421) in the pedals support bracket. This is a simple two pole switch that provides a ground signal to the cruise control module A8 in normal state and when the clutch pedal is depressed the signal is broken and cruise control is disengaged if it was active. To tie in the clutch pedal switch, S32, requires two wires hooked to it (of course). You can get a two position connector to fit the clutch switch or attach the wires by another means of your choice. The connector, X121, has pins going to ground splice X217 located under the dash above the pedals. Supply a wire and make this connection. Refer to the EWS part above where it was mentioned that the L2 power to the cruise module was removed. This wire used to reside in location 7 on connector X1659. Re-use this wire to connect to pin 2 on connector X121 (or pin 2 on the clutch switch). Clutch switch is done. On the other end of this circuit you take the cruise control's module connector, X22, and remove the wire from location 2. This is a constant ground signal from ground splice X10012. Label and save for future use if you need a ground for another project. Now take the wire from location 5, used to be the L2 power from the EWS, and move it to location 2. You now have provided the clutch pedal position switch signal to the cruise control module. Cruise is now operational with a manual transmission. Depending on the MFD and software rev that is in the cruise control module, the cruise will work without have to recode the module.

    That should about do it for any necessary wiring changes required. You can now proceed to the next step and recode/program the car without the fear of silence when you turn the key.


    The rest of the pics. Garage wall shot is the various WDS printouts to get everthing working. I pulled all of the auto trans wiring harness's out of the car, so a few changes were required
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    Last edited by cdh; 02-12-2011 at 11:44 AM. Reason: Added further information

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    Thanks for this info!
    I may some day consider this...I'm hating the auto trans right now...
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    Great writeup! Anyone doing this swap should find this invaluable.





    Totally stock 97 740iL except for SatRad

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    Very good post. Will be doing the swap on my 01 iL as soon as I can. I would love to run across a detailed write-up

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    Very nice, we needed this thread. Not diggin the inability to properly code a post facelift.

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    Quote Originally Posted by m3studio View Post
    Very good post. Will be doing the swap on my 01 iL as soon as I can. I would love to run across a detailed write-up
    Best document to read would be the TIS. Believe it is now online. Have a read on removing the auto trans from the e38. Then have a read on removing/installing the manual trans for an e39. This will give you torque specs, how to check that the crank sensor is installed and shimmed correctly, etc. If you have specific questions let me know and I'll do my best to answer them for you.
    Craig

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    CDH - Thanks for your help that was some good reading, thanks for the efforts on the subject it's really very interesting for me .,

    I did a lot (4om my point of view) of searching on the subject and it seems the electronics and the programming are the basic problem encountering all the Swapping team. (sounds cool)

    I really don't know if that can be of any help to you guys . it might be just a silly thought, I got the error coding for the most of bimmers. i will attach the link

    here you go.
    http://www.pdftop.com/view/aHR0cDovL...VmYXV0LnBkZg==

    and also did some expanded researching over the Diagnostic tools ,. and man what i found was much like ... GREAT TOOL FOR PINNY !!! any bimmer Rider MUST HAVE.

    i wont post the site where i found those in case it's against the rules (um totally new here)

    but i think if u don't mind i would request your opinion for which scanner that fits better cause man there is a lot .. (unfortunately it's all chines so that's why prices are awesome).....

    As i mentioned in another thread I'm positive about the 6speed manual swap.

    so if it's not much to ask i do bad at wiring so can i have your support at this
    :$ can you scan the wiring docs and post them ? or to my email ?:$

    My car is 740I 98 so i wont need the drive-shaft costumed but is my stock is what will work or i will buy a 540i 6spd m/t drive-shaft ?? far as i know the A/T shaft is shorter than the M/T one ... or the opposite? my head is blown excuse me

    did the guys made up their mind about the best axle ratio differential ? i know higher the number is higher acceleration but higher fuel consumption as well so does the 3.x worth it in power gain ? or do i stick with the 2.x ratio?

    1 last thing (i know it's too much and u already by now hate the new man who's asking too much) can we obtain a European E38 manual software and use the scanners to upload them, or does it come with the GT1 already ? cause you know it would be more than fine to have it and solve all the coding headaches (maybe we can arrange something for all the swappers to use it it's only 1 flush each car).

    Thanks and sorry for the long listing .,the subject is buzzing me already

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    Where's Luke when you need him?

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    Quote Originally Posted by FA Marcos View Post
    so if it's not much to ask i do bad at wiring so can i have your support at this
    :$ can you scan the wiring docs and post them ? or to my email ?:$

    My car is 740I 98 so i wont need the drive-shaft costumed but is my stock is what will work or i will buy a 540i 6spd m/t drive-shaft ??

    1 last thing can we obtain a European E38 manual software and use the scanners to upload them, or does it come with the GT1 already
    One of the online versions of the WDS is located here http://spaghetticoder.org/bmw/wds/
    Have a look and let me know what questions you have.

    Drive shaft from a 540 will not work (without some work). You will need one for a 740. Part Number is 26 10 1 227 959.

    Software for coding/programming is contained in the 'scanners' as you call them. As mentioned you will require either a GT1 with version 44 of the software (after 44 GT1 no longer can do coding/programming), or Progman (can also be called SSS). Dealers have moved to the latest software/diagnostics called ISIS. So finding a dealer still running the older diagnostics units may be a challenge. Along with finding a tech who understands what you are after. Independent shops may have a version of the BMW software or be using Autologic diagnostic equipment. Autologic can do the job just fine.

    Think that covers your questions.
    Craig

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    Hey Craig ., thanks man for the Answers ., that sounds great, Not easy but promising .
    when i start the job I will sure do have question marks.

    my drive shaft will do then.it's already in a good shape (the last time I saw it) the car in storage right now till I get back home,

    I think with the wiring diagrams It will be possible for me., and for the coding um planning on purchasing the GT1 with the version you highlighted.in case i cant find it as you mentioned, Autologic diagnostic will be the answer i couldn't get the pricing on that system still not sure if it will be under my budget for it.

    there is also a system i found it's GT1 and it's advanced but the supplier mentioned that it can do coding (GT-1 for BMW before E65(DIS v57 + SSS v35) auto diagnostic tool auto tester garage equipment).
    can you tell if that will work or will encounter the same issue with the inability to code the car for the modification we are up to ? is that the SSS Progman u mentioned ?

    Thanks again for your help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nah2323 View Post
    Where's Luke when you need him?
    Right hurr


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    Sup Luke, how is your Lady (car dont get it wrong) ...

    Just wanna say thanks to you as well for the conversion thoughts.

    I was so determined to do it b4 i get in here, and after determination have raised only now i know (mostly) how to do it.

    what u did for the coding?

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    By Lady, you mean the E38? Because I killed her, by accident of course. I plead guilty and was let off on probation (not allowed to drive any BMW until it has been decided by the authorities that I have been rehabilitated) and thus am now driving a Honda rice rocket.


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    Ahhh Luke. There he is. The man, the myth, the legend.

    mc - DIdn't sell it yet, and not in any real hurry. I know im asking a little bit high price for it, but all in all, by the time anyone buys one off the street, and then does all of the maintenance, mine will be the cheaper one. Unfortunately, not too many people can see the forest for the trees.

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    ^Love the quote in your sig! Hahahahaha! They couldn't have been serious!
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    production date: 01/95, DUDMD engine chip, Dinan transmission chip, Dinan CAI, Beyern Multis, Magnaflow cats, mufflers, 3" down turn tips. Bilstein shocks, struts, H & R stage II springs, strong strut brace, pornlights, wood ashtrays, leather/wood seatbacks, euro lighted headrests, 750 kidney grills, wood handles, wood maplight, b-pillars out of a 750, Ford Mustang injectors, "E's" AE and LED 3rd brake light special, cats delete, Magnaflow X-pipe, 199K miles


  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Edmonton, AB, Canada
    Posts
    501
    My Cars
    97 740iL 03 525iT 03 530
    Quote Originally Posted by FA Marcos View Post

    my drive shaft will do then.it's already in a good shape


    there is also a system i found it's GT1 and it's advanced but the supplier mentioned that it can do coding (GT-1 for BMW before E65(DIS v57 + SSS v35) auto diagnostic tool auto tester garage equipment).
    can you tell if that will work or will encounter the same issue with the inability to code the car for the modification we are up to ? is that the SSS Progman u mentioned ?
    You can use your driveshaft, but you will have to lengthen it for the manual trans. Approx. 3 5/8 - 3 3/4 IIRC.

    SSS v35 (Progman v35) will code/program what you want. You may have to drop into the old menu system (aka GT1) that SSS/Progman has when doing the coding. Easier to manualy specify what you want done rather than having an automatic session set up and executed for you. Also less consistency checks.

    Craig

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 740i E38
    Dang LUKE ...... Poor Fire hydrant i thought the guys were joking :S ... SORRY MAN
    I Kinda feel you ..I watched as she got raped by fat ugly truck E21 329 (If u can call M3 engine that :P) well wounds heal by time my friend. people will forget (and i don't mean your parents those never do forget .. and um beginning to realize now why since i had my own kids

    so lay low the bimmers might kick u out if u kept talken about your Zonda :P

    Hope you be good. And maybe your honorable service in BMW world will grant you authorization sooner .

    Be good buddy

    So ... who suggested the G*y wink that kisses :S i didn't see it when I was typing.

    also I got some thought and it turned out true ...
    why no body thought of importing or parting a manual E38 straight from Europe ?
    i went on searching and i found a few 740i with 6 speed manual ! we can order from scrap yard there for the trans + drive shaft. I pursuit this way and i will get a shipping price quote by tomorrow and already made sure that the BMW E38 EURO spec is eligible for importing individually into the US and Canada. I might just purchase 1 and make it for parts depends on it's shape it has like 120k miles.

    Google it, seems like worth a shot

    For you Craig, I cant thank you enough.

    I wont mess with the driveshaft itself, when i uninstall i will see if i can get a spacer plate very well made that goes straight with longer bolts to give the required dimensions i will go for it, or else I will try to search and order the 740iEuro spec driveshaft used, or if the car importing root went through i will have it with along.

    And i got the pricing (nobody laughs)for The Autologic system turned out to be CHEAP only $12000 yeah $12k, for what my old man used to call playn gameboy with the car :S. but to be honest that gameboy seems so adequate piece of equipment or it wasn't goin be $12k worth. !

    However the GT1 system. it's decent i received three prices for it
    $705.54
    $636.58 with 1 yr warranty a
    $575.80 .
    All with shipping , all got the same functions same kit and software ..weird thing is all three are at the same site !!!?!??!?

    and i checked the parts list from Luke's at Getbmwparts.com they actually have new clutch kit with flywheel. but it the list hit $2810 without the transmission or the driveshaft(work) ,well the pressure plate is $341 and the flywheel is $1262, i will try to find those as performance parts (since I'm not planning on uninstalling my transmission again anytime soon so i think to get it done already. A lot of searching and so much planning, But the mod worth it.

    Thanks again Craig for your help.

    Last edited by FA Marcos; 11-22-2010 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Randolph NJ/Harrisburg PA
    Posts
    7,950
    My Cars
    1999 Ford Explorer Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by FA Marcos View Post
    However the GT1 system. it's decent i received three prices for it
    $705.54
    $636.58 with 1 yr warranty a
    $575.80 .
    All with shipping , all got the same functions same kit and software ..weird thing is all three are at the same site !!!?!??!?
    For the GT1, take a stroll through the Diagnostic subforum. You can easily build a fully working system for under $150. If you run into issues or have questions, feel free to PM me and I'll help where I can.


  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    2,008
    My Cars
    2000 BMW 540i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by AwesomeIsLuke View Post
    For the GT1, take a stroll through the Diagnostic subforum. You can easily build a fully working system for under $150. If you run into issues or have questions, feel free to PM me and I'll help where I can.
    I've seen a CRX with the B18C5 but best of all these crazies somehow did a AWD coversion on it, made it a quick little car.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 740i E38
    Thanks luke, i will take a look, but unfortunately i wont be able to start anything till i get back home which i don't even know when yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by m3studio View Post
    I've seen a CRX with the B18C5 but best of all these crazies somehow did a AWD coversion on it, made it a quick little car.
    I suggest SIR engine ,.. this lil box car can drag like an arrow,it accept HELL LOTS OF mods



    just a thought

    hey Luke evade fire hydrants and I might be interested in the box car when your parole ends and u r ready for ur next bimmer,

    i kinda have some vision for that Honda.
    Last edited by FA Marcos; 11-24-2010 at 03:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Randolph NJ/Harrisburg PA
    Posts
    7,950
    My Cars
    1999 Ford Explorer Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by m3studio View Post
    I've seen a CRX with the B18C5 but best of all these crazies somehow did a AWD coversion on it, made it a quick little car.
    Mine has a B18A1. It's certainly a peppy little go cart.


  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    2,008
    My Cars
    2000 BMW 540i Sport
    I heard putting the heads of a B16 on B18 makes some serious improvements. But idk, could've been other way around. Is it powered by DOHC V-Tec? lol

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