I'm a 2002 boy with access to a sweet 78 530i. 84k one owner miles, always maintained and in excellent cosmetic condition. No rust anywhere. Besides the thermal reactor / cracked head issue, anything else i should be consered about? I really wasn't planning on an E12 for my next project but this seems like a cherry?
Hello guys i've currently ran into a rut with my 79 528i. Ive been having the problem where my car starts but doesn't want to stay on for more then 5 seconds. i thought this was the result of a battery and alternator so i replaced both along with a starter but the car still doesn't want to stay on longer than 5 seconds. i sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body to get it to stay on a little longer which led to the asumtion its a fuel problem. I pressure tested the fuel pump and that seems to be running in spec aswell. yet the car still wont stay on. the car is only getting enough gas to run off one cylinder which is causing it to put and misfire, the only thing else i could think of would be the multi purpose relay.. someone please help
so i just bought a 1980 528i last week and i was driving it home the heat was on and it was hot so i turned the left dial from warm to i think past 0 ( it was dark) car started to blow cold air so i turned the dial back to about the 9o'clock spot and the air was still cold. so i moved it all the way back to warm and still no heat. crap loads of heat to no heat. did a gear or something in the climate control strip? also when i turn the dial to cold lots of air come out of the ducts but on warm air only comes from the defrost and floor. ideas?
cbruce, were you able to get this fixed. I am having kind of the same issue here but mine misfires randomly and just seems to starves for gas out of no were and run on 3 cylinders. If you did solve the issue or if anyone has any ideas.
Guys just to give you an update on the Misfiring issue. I replaced all spark plugs, points, cap rotor, Cold start valve, and finally the Mass air flow sensor. Every time a part was changed the car would give better performance and the misfiring would be less now I am down to the car only misfiring when is cold it would take about 15min after start to stop Misfiring. Any ideas on what should I check?
Coolant temp sensor?
DarkSideofWill, thank you so much for the suggestion, it ended up that the coolant temp sensor wire connector was broken and it was not making a good contact as you can see in the picture. I replaced the part and saw the improvement right away but I am still getting a rough start and in occasions mostly when it is cold out it would misfire until it warms up.
Again replacing this part did make an improvement I am not getting the constant misfiring anymore.
Again thank you so much DarkSideofWill, but do you have any ideas on where I should go next to find this stupid misfiring, by now it feels like I have replaced every single part.
Thank you in advance.
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Also did a smoke test, a boot was cracked and it was replaced. Gas pump was also replaced.
Last edited by BavariaRR; 03-25-2015 at 11:13 PM.
I'm having a really hard time finding anybody who owns an E12! I have some early E21 intake runners that are a great bolt-on upgrade for the M30. Selling a total of 8 runners (parted out two '78 M10s) for 80 bucks.
Guys what fixed my misfiring was replacing the multipurpose relay. I also replaced the cold start relay and she is now acting as it should : )
I don't know much about early Bosch systems, other than their coolant temp sensors tend not to last, and time is hard on wiring.
I am not an E12 owner, but have worked with several of these fine old fivers - largely to exterior lighting. Headlights, side markers, rear lights - the later style (shown) that's like the early E23 seven series.
E12 late left side.jpg
I am happy to help with lighting - safely, of course. I have been working with an Euro 1980 M535i, up in MN. It's got working rear fogs. and I have been improving it to add second tail and brake lights each side, plus keeping the working rear fog lights. Very much better than stock -- bigger, brighter, and more reliable, plus the nice rear fog light feature is preserved.
Headlights too, naturally you want to see where you're going. I can suggest some nice options up there too, uning US sealed beam replacements that make fantasstic amounts of light, no threat to wiring or fuses or relays or switches, just make a better use of the power with new reflectrors, new lamps, and BOY do they light up the night!
Anyway, get in touch with me by PM or email, I'll be glad to send pictures, talk about things I've done, see if any of this is something you'd like to discuss at greater length.
I firmly believe you should "Be Seen, and Not Hurt" - and in seeing where you're going. Let's keep these cars on the road, and out of collisions. I salute my elders, and love the 'first five.'
Hey, Sherman! Glad to be among your company here.
Last edited by MisterFixit; 07-24-2015 at 05:10 PM.
"Be Seen, and Not Hurt"!
Lighting Upgrades for 2002, E3, E9, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39
Tail Light restoration and upgrades keep them off your tail
Headlight protection film keeps lights intact and forward view clear
Guys another issue that just came up.
She was not starting after driving it for about 10min then I would let it cool down and it would start so I thought is was the starter so I replaced it but after I installed the new starter it is running really bad and making a loud noise. Check out the video I took on how is acting now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ms3P...ature=youtu.be
Any idea on what I mess up?
By the way the issue with starting was not the starter I think it is the switch, I can jump the car by bypassing all the internal switches going direct to starter solenoid. That is something else I am trying to figure out how to take out the ignition switch. : (
Here is a German language repair manual for the E12, for the older models the publisher now put them online free of charge, printed they are still available too
Reparaturhandbuch von Etzold, So wird's gemacht Band 68,
Reparaturanleitung für BMW 5er | So wird´s gemacht
SHOGUN'S TRICKS AND TIPS FOR THE SEVEN SERIES
I've got a question for you. I've recently inherited a e3 74 Autotrans and was curious about using a 5 speed and M30 engine with fuel injection from a 5 series .My engine is pretty fresh. Which prompted me to consider swapping over the carbs for a "modern" fuel injection from an 86model 535i as well as the trans. Any suggestions?
I've got a question. So I just got a 1980 528, super clean, 114K total miles. It runs and drives, but it's got a horrible throttle jolt. You start in first and accelerate, jolts a bunch until you let off the throttle, same thing in 2nd. It's also got a lot of feedback and what feels like lack of power when driving too. No dummy lights, etc.
Any ideas as to what could be causing this?
I recently bought a super clean E12 528. It runs fine, temps are fine, has no dummy lights, has 114K on the clock, etc.
There's a pretty brutal throttle jolt however. For example, if you put the car in first and start driving, the throttle starts jolting and the car itself starts jolting back and fourth, back and fourth until you ease off the throttle. Typically does the same thing if you go into 2nd gear at lower speeds.
Any ideas what could be causing this? It's not the typical jerkiness you see with manuals, it's like the opposite, it gets less jerky when you let off the throttle.
The car also has a lot of vibration and feedback when you start to hit speeds 35+.
Last edited by shogun; 11-15-2015 at 06:38 PM.
How's it going everyone. I recently picked up a 1978 530i that wasn't running. after some spark plugs, new battery and new gas she has been running great. as of now I am working on overhauling all the rusted brake lines and getting the coolant system overhauled as its been sitting for 2+ years. the issue I'm having now is I believe I have an exhaust leak somewhere. I am looking to replace the entire exhaust system from exhaust manifold back. I would like to go with an aftermarket setup but cant really find much. anyone have any suggestions? the car will be on bags within the next 2 to 3 months so I imagine the exhaust will have to have some custom work done to it anyway. should I just take it to an exhaust shop and let them run some new pipes and find a muffler I like? my biggest issue right now is figuring out what to do about the OEM exhaust manifold. thanks for any and all help in advance!
New member here.
I bought an E12/8 518i in January, and a while ago stumbled upon pictures of that very car on this thread (it used to be FoRmAtEEr's car). I don't have any new pictures that I can post right now, but basically it's the same as before but without the plastic around the rear number plate, the cover on the rear window (I keep forgetting what it's called), and injection (it's now a 32/34 Weber with a Simota cone filter). The radio was also gone, but I replaced it with a scrapyard Pioneer KEH-4020.
I do have a question though, in case someone here can help. I noticed that after driving on an open road for about 30 minutes the car loses a significant part of its power, and so far I couldn't find the cause. The car still runs very well, it just loses power (think 3rd gear and floored on a slight hill at 100km/h before I swapped the small pancake filter for a cone). It does burn a bit of oil as shown in the attached video, but that doesn't seem too bad for such an old car.
So I recently picked up a e12 and I was getting ready to pull the valve cover to adjust the valves and I need up needing to move the car before I did the job so I put the afm and air box back on and now I'm at a no start situation I just sits and cranks ... SOS I need help I've gone though everything I've known to check
Welcome. It's good to see some activity here.
I assume it's K-Jet? I'm not familiar with injection, but I know someone in a local club with a '82 323i Baur, so he might be able to give his opinion if I see him the weekend.
On another note, I recently took my car for a dyno tune. It's now just under factory power if they adjusted for altitude, or significanlty above if they didn't. I'll have to wait and see if the car still loses power after driving for a while.
EDIT: Also, be sure to post in the 5-series registry.
Last edited by JKuhn; 09-28-2016 at 02:56 PM.
Good luck then, I hope you get it back soon.
It would also be nice to see some pictures, while you still have it. Speaking of which, my car is still almost the same as when FoRmAtEEr had it, but I'll also try to post some new pictures soon.
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By the way, in case someone with the relevant knowledge sees this, my car's been acting up a bit lately:
As I (partially) said earlier, I took it for a dyno tune, and after that I had some issues, that seemingly were caused by oil fouled plugs. Now the car seems to have developed nasty deadspots, the RPM is overall slow to drop since the tune, and for some reason the engine cuts out every now and then (the car jerks as if I'm slamming the brakes, and then the engine is dead until I start it a couple seconds later). I also get the idea that it's not pulling like it did directly after the tune, but I can't say for sure. The things I've been told to replace, but haven't done yet, are the plugs (they were just cleaned), rotor and distributor cap. Any ideas?