Change Transmission Fluid and Filter on X5 3.0i

[Championscooter]

Hi All,

I just replaced the transmission fluid and the filter on my 2001 BMW X5 3.0i which has 122K miles and never had ATF replaced. I’ve always hesitate to do it because BMW said it’s a “Lifetime Fluid”. But after seeing some people have done it, so I wanted to do my. The process it’s not too bad. I bought all my fluids and parts from www.pelicanparts.com . Make sure you use the SAME fluid said on the green label at the bottom of the transmission pan.

What you need:

6 Quarts of FUCHS Titan ATF 6000 SE ATF (P/N: 83 22 2 163 514)
1 Transmission filter kit (P/N: 24 11 7 557 069)
Oil manual pump to put the fresh ATF into the pan (see one of the pictures)
17mm socket (open the fill plug)
8mm Hex socket (open the drain plug)
Floor jack and Jack stands ( I used 2X6 studs)

If you only doing drain and fill, then you don’t need to remove the pan. For me at 122K miles, I went ahead replaced the filter kit also. Remember, you will only replace about 50% of the total ATF since the other 50% are up in the torque converter but that’s better than nothing.

First, you need to raise your SAV up. For me being small person 5’7”, 150lbs, I just needed 2-3 inch raise to work comfortably. I used two pieces of 2X6 studs (one about 24 inches and other 12inches), nailed them together with the short piece being on top flush on one end. The uneven end will act as a “ramp” for my SAV drive up onto and that gave me a total of 3 inches off the ground. You will need a total of 8 pieces of 2X6 to build for all four wheels. I found this is much SAFER for me going under the SAV than using the jacks. And a lot cheaper than have to purchase a floor jack and jack stands. Remember to pull your emergency brakes.

Make sure you’re able to loosing the fill plug first before drain the oil. The fill plug located on the Driver side just above the pan on the right. There is NO crush-washers on either one of them. There is NO hot exhaust pipe to worry about getting burn like the X5 4.4l. (See photo below)

Drain the oil first. The best time to drain is let the vehicle sit for hours or overnight for fluid settle down in the pan so you get most fluid drain. The drain plug uses TORX wrench (see below)

Now remove all 22 bolts around the bottom of the transmission pan. Be careful some fluids are still in the pan.

After the pan removed, pull down the filter using both hands. The filter holds in place by the O-rings and the base of the pan itself. There is no bolt or nuts holding the filter in place like some other vehicles. You will see there are “2 O-rings” attached to the nozzle. Make sure BOTH O-rings are removed with the old filter. Sometime one might stuck up inside. In that case, use the screwdriver to pry it out. And installing a new filter, make sure BOTH new O-rings are installed in the same manner. The new filter should come with 2 new O-rings. (See below photo). The purpose of O-rings is to provide tight seal to pump ATF fluid up into the torque convertor to lubricate the transmission gears. If not tight, gears may slipped.

Align the new filter in the same position as the old filter you had removed and PUSH up into the transmission.

Clean out the pan with degreaser to remove metal shaves accumulated at the bottom of the pan.

Install new pan gasket and lineup the pan. Hand snug each bolt until all 22 bolts on in place before torque them with the socket wrench.

Refilling new Transmission Fluids

I used the Sta-bil Quart manual pump (cost is $8.00) with clear hose to refill the ATF. With the engine shut off, put about 4 quarts of ATF (until a little bit start dribbling down the filler hole).

Hand tighten the filler plug and start the engine, once it reaches the operating temp shift through the gears slowly about 10 time or so. Make sure you have the emergency brake and brakes on while shifting since the car is still on the jacks or 2X6 studs like I do.

Now put the car in neutral with the engine running, loosen the filler plug and continue fill about another quart in until ATF start dribbling out the filler hole. Tighten the filler plug and torque it to 36lbft.

You are DONE!! It should takes approximately 5 ¼ quarts total. So buy 6 quarts should be plenty.

Good Luck!

More Related Resources:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/76008-change-transmission-fluid-filter-x5-3-0i.html

http://blog.bavauto.com/bmw-tech-tips/bmw-automatic-transmission-fluid-filter-change-high-mileage

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/35886-ok-i-did-transmission-fluid-flush-my-02-4-4i.html

[MPDano]

Hi All,

I just replaced the transmission fluid and the filter on my 2001 BMW X5 3.0i which has 122K miles and never had ATF replaced. I’ve always hesitate to do it because BMW said it’s a “Lifetime Fluid”. But after seeing some people have done it, so I wanted to do my. The process it’s not too bad. I bought all my fluids and parts from www.pelicanparts.com . Make sure you use the SAME fluid said on the green label at the bottom of the transmission pan.

What you need:

6 Quarts of FUCHS Titan ATF 6000 SE ATF (P/N: 83 22 2 163 514)
1 Transmission filter kit (P/N: 24 11 7 557 069)
Oil manual pump to put the fresh ATF into the pan (see one of the pictures)
17mm socket (open the fill plug)
8mm Hex socket (open the drain plug)
Floor jack and Jack stands ( I used 2X6 studs)

If you only doing drain and fill, then you don’t need to remove the pan. For me at 122K miles, I went ahead replaced the filter kit also. Remember, you will only replace about 50% of the total ATF since the other 50% are up in the torque converter but that’s better than nothing.

First, you need to raise your SAV up. For me being small person 5’7”, 150lbs, I just needed 2-3 inch raise to work comfortably. I used two pieces of 2X6 studs (one about 24 inches and other 12inches), nailed them together with the short piece being on top flush on one end. The uneven end will act as a “ramp” for my SAV drive up onto and that gave me a total of 3 inches off the ground. You will need a total of 8 pieces of 2X6 to build for all four wheels. I found this is much SAFER for me going under the SAV than using the jacks. And a lot cheaper than have to purchase a floor jack and jack stands. Remember to pull your emergency brakes.

Make sure you’re able to loosing the fill plug first before drain the oil. The fill plug located on the Driver side just above the pan on the right. There is NO crush-washers on either one of them. There is NO hot exhaust pipe to worry about getting burn like the X5 4.4l. (See photo below)

Drain the oil first. The best time to drain is let the vehicle sit for hours or overnight for fluid settle down in the pan so you get most fluid drain. The drain plug uses TORX wrench (see below)

Now remove all 22 bolts around the bottom of the transmission pan. Be careful some fluids are still in the pan.

After the pan removed, pull down the filter using both hands. The filter holds in place by the O-rings and the base of the pan itself. There is no bolt or nuts holding the filter in place like some other vehicles. You will see there are “2 O-rings” attached to the nozzle. Make sure BOTH O-rings are removed with the old filter. Sometime one might stuck up inside. In that case, use the screwdriver to pry it out. And installing a new filter, make sure BOTH new O-rings are installed in the same manner. The new filter should come with 2 new O-rings. (See below photo). The purpose of O-rings is to provide tight seal to pump ATF fluid up into the torque convertor to lubricate the transmission gears. If not tight, gears may slipped.

Align the new filter in the same position as the old filter you had removed and PUSH up into the transmission.

Clean out the pan with degreaser to remove metal shaves accumulated at the bottom of the pan.

Install new pan gasket and lineup the pan. Hand snug each bolt until all 22 bolts on in place before torque them with the socket wrench.

Refilling new Transmission Fluids

I used the Sta-bil Quart manual pump (cost is $8.00) with clear hose to refill the ATF. With the engine shut off, put about 4 quarts of ATF (until a little bit start dribbling down the filler hole).

Hand tighten the filler plug and start the engine, once it reaches the operating temp shift through the gears slowly about 10 time or so. Make sure you have the emergency brake and brakes on while shifting since the car is still on the jacks or 2X6 studs like I do.

Now put the car in neutral with the engine running, loosen the filler plug and continue fill about another quart in until ATF start dribbling out the filler hole. Tighten the filler plug and torque it to 36lbft.

You are DONE!! It should takes approximately 5 ¼ quarts total. So buy 6 quarts should be plenty.

Good Luck!

More Related Resources:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/76008-change-transmission-fluid-filter-x5-3-0i.html

http://blog.bavauto.com/bmw-tech-tips/bmw-automatic-transmission-fluid-filter-change-high-mileage

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/35886-ok-i-did-transmission-fluid-flush-my-02-4-4i.html

I have the 2004 3.0, is the tranny the same?

- - - Updated - - -

I have the 2004 3.0, is the tranny the same?

Verified my numbers were different than yours but probably equivalent. Drain Plug is Torx T45 and the Fill Plug is a 17mm wrench. Went to Pelican and ordered my Oil (5+1 litre) and filter kit w/new bolts and a pump. They have never done me wrong. $125 shipped

Automatic Transmission Fluid (5 Liter) Brand: Febi Bilstein Note: Equivalent to: Dexron VI, Texaco ETL-8072B. (2004 BMW X5 3.0i Sport Utility) Part #: 83-22-0-397-114-M36

[MPDano]

Worked like a charm. No more cold running slipping. Oil was dark and low.

[peter2772000]

The tranny oil is one of the most overlooked maintenance items. But changing it on a tranny with 100k+ miles which has the original oil and DOESN'T exhibit any problems is very risky. You may well end up with a tranny rebuild shortly thereafter. Jez sayin'...

[dkl]

Worked like a charm. No more cold running slipping. Oil was dark and low.

Slipping when cold has more to do with the filter than the fluid. If you didn't use a BMW OE filter, be prepare for more slipping during the cold season.

[jbart]

The tranny oil is one of the most overlooked maintenance items. But changing it on a tranny with 100k+ miles which has the original oil and DOESN'T exhibit any problems is very risky. You may well end up with a tranny rebuild shortly thereafter. Jez sayin'...

Why?

[peter2772000]

The clutch packs become glazed with time. New (slippier) oil can cause slippage where you had none before.
Change the oil on a 100k+ mile tranny only if you have issues with it. Otherwise, leave well enough alone