What places on the underside of the car are safe jack points?

[jamesdc4]

I usually use the following photo to indicate the jack points, but Cam (cnn) had a much better pic.

Your best bet is to jack under the differential. Place a towel or wood between your floor jack and the differential (Green dot in pic below).

Then place 2 jackstands at the usual rubber pads (Orange color). This is much safer way to do it.




Another option is build 4 layers of wood ramp (2 x 12 lumber; 6" tall) and drive the car up.

Cam's alternative to raising the car using jacks:

Wood ramps work great for me because I don't have to jack the car (I hate jacking the car up!). Unless you have to remove the wheels for brake jobs, wheel bearing etc., the wood ramps work great for 99% of the time you don't need to jack the car:
- Changing Engine Oil
- Changing Trans Oil
- Changing Rear Diff Oil
- Checking Exhaust
- Brake bleeding
- Changing O2 sensors
- Changing Engine and Trans Mounts
- Chassis Inspection.

Example of wood ramp (the "top landing" should be long like this pic, but the "stairs steps" can be shorter about 8" for me):

Fyi: I and many others use the rear diff as a jack point, however...

According to the BMW TIS, your not supposed to jack up the rear via the differential. Many do, I don't. Go buy some low profile ramps like these. I've got them and they work well. http://www.rhinoramps.com/home.html

[johnfive30]

Evidence that raising the jack to high on one side is not good for you and the car.

[jnyost]

I love ramps also, and the pic above is a great example of what you can make at home. I love my plastic ramps from Walmart that hold something like 12k pounds. I know they easily hold my Excursion.

Please stick to the standard jack pads, rear diff, front subframe, or rear subframe. Do not try jacking on the rocker panel or the unibody even though it looks like a frame. It will cave in.

[NNY528I]

there is also a jack point on the engine subframe where it crosses under the engine.

[Mark@EAC]

The I6 cars do have a rubber thing on the front subframe to lift from. I dont recall seeing one on the 540i cars though. Maybe I just never looked for it.

[Jason5driver]

The I6 cars do have a rubber thing on the front subframe to lift from. I dont recall seeing one on the 540i cars though. Maybe I just never looked for it.

Yeps!
My measly 525i has that center rubber jack point on the center of the front subframe.

Let find some pictures.
Please note that if your car is significantly lower, it will be VERY hard to find a jack to reach far enough to that front center jack point.

I love ramps also, and the pic above is a great example of what you can make at home. I love my plastic ramps from Walmart that hold something like 12k pounds. I know they easily hold my Excursion.

Please stick to the standard jack pads, rear diff, front subframe, or rear subframe. Do not try jacking on the rocker panel or the unibody even though it looks like a frame. It will cave in.

Yeps!
I also have the plastic Walmart ramps too.
However, I am only able to use them on the rear (backing up onto the ramps) since my car is so low, the car pushes the ramps out of the way when trying to drive forward onto the ramps.

Also, I think the plastic ramps I have are a little flimsy, and will fold a little at the high point of the ramp.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=341672
Bluebee's:



http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...ient=firefox-a

[325icintn]

e39 540:




Is that an e28 rolled over in the 2nd pic?

[Evans]

e39 540:




Is that an e28 rolled over in the 2nd pic?

I don't believe so. My e28 has a center exit exhaust, and so does every other e28 I have wrenched on as well. Possibly an e30 four door?

[e24mpwr]

I don't believe so. My e28 has a center exit exhaust, and so does every other e28 I have wrenched on as well. Possibly an e30 four door?

It is an E30.

[scooper]

where does one jack the rear of an e39? Safe on the diff housing? Or forward of the diff on the chassis? Thanks.

[gmak]

If you're not comfortable under the diff with a piece of wood between the jack and the diff, then you can jack up the same way under the swing arms - do one side at a time and then place your jack stands in the usual place.

Or you can jack up using the jack point on the rocker panel, and then place the jack stand using part of the sub-frame.

[Qsilver7]

where does one jack the rear of an e39? Safe on the diff housing? Or forward of the diff on the chassis? Thanks.

The diff housing (see #3 in BMW info below)...but NOT on the diff's cover!!!!

[ViolinARC]

The diff housing (see #3 in BMW info below)...but NOT on the diff's cover!!!!

I was frustrated with the '03 because the trick of lifting at the front jack point until the rear is off the ground, didn't work! It worked for the '00 Sport but NOT the M-sport. After seeing this post from Q, I decided it was safe and as you can guess, it worked like a charm. Maybe one shouldn't do it too often but doing it occasionally appears to be safe enough...

Someone mentioned that it could potentially damage the subframe or diff bushings but so far, everything is golden.

[Bmwpower603]

Peel back the plastic that covers fuel filter, and the other side which covers brake lines.

Once this is done. The frame will be exposed. Put the jack stands under the frame evenly. And make sure all of the legs on the jack stands are touching the floor.

[auaq]

Yeah, aside from the main jacking points you have to go past the fuel lines and the brake lines to the frame which is safe to jack the car up. However, you want to use a block of wood for a larger contact area for a wide spread support on the frame to jack it up; otherwise, there is a possibility of pinching it first with just using a hydraulic jack and then pushing it up into the cabin's floor.

[geargrinder]

Peel back the plastic that covers fuel filter, and the other side which covers brake lines.

Once this is done. The frame will be exposed. Put the jack stands under the frame evenly. And make sure all of the legs on the jack stands are touching the floor.

WAAAY too much work unless for some reason you don't want to use the factory jack points (like you're going to work on them or the rockers). Use the diff, or, as Gmak says, find a suspension point and do left/right individually.

[Jason5driver]

From my thread:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...l-on-an-E39-I6

Rear/ hiney is in the air/ jacked up:

[scooper]

Thanks a bunch guys/gals! I was going to jack it up via the diff housing or by each rear subframe bushing (smaller not as convenient area). To replace the oil pan gasket, in addition to dropping the front subframe, should I also disconnect tie rods and rods going to the steering knuckle? Or is there enough clearance just by dropping the subframe?

[gmak]

Thanks a bunch guys/gals! I was going to jack it up via the diff housing or by each rear subframe bushing (smaller not as convenient area). To replace the oil pan gasket, in addition to dropping the front subframe, should I also disconnect tie rods and rods going to the steering knuckle? Or is there enough clearance just by dropping the subframe?

IIIRC, read somewhere (or was it an E39soure video?) that you don't even need to remove the subframe bolts completely - that you undo the front ones on each side almost to coming out, then the middle ones a little less, and finally the back ones only as much as needed. This apparently gives clearance for the oil pan to come out.

[scooper]

ok good to know thanks! Have lots of tools. Just need to block off time to tackle this. In e36-land suspension bushings/ball joints need to be replaced every 80-100k or so. What's the service interval on the e39s? m52 auto at 99k miles.

[gmak]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You can always put the front on ramps and go under to look for leaky bushings - use a pry bar to see how much movement. Same pry bar for the ball joints. If you have a vibration in the steering wheel at arout 70 mph, then it's the thrust arm bushings. Wheel shimmy could be control arm or tie rod ends. Clunking.... get under the car and look (rinse and repeat).

[Jason5driver]

Thanks a bunch guys/gals! I was going to jack it up via the diff housing or by each rear subframe bushing (smaller not as convenient area). To replace the oil pan gasket, in addition to dropping the front subframe, should I also disconnect tie rods and rods going to the steering knuckle? Or is there enough clearance just by dropping the subframe?

No need to remove the tie rods.
Did you look at these threads?:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...nt-illustrated

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...mies-2002-530i

And this on YouTube by "the 50's Kid":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1c2wfo4-jw

[scooper]

Thanks! I'm in the middle of this... how many of you removed:

brake calipers
abs sensor connectors from plastic housings
steering rack from subframe
struts from strut towers

I've been reading various DIY instructions, and there is no consensus. I have a bentley manual, but it doesn't mention any of these items. Another DIY mentions disconnecting the control arms and thrust arms (no need to mess with brake calipers or struts). I think this method makes the most sense...Thoughts?

I'm at a point where I can unbolt the rack and unbolt the subrame to drop it. Thanks again!

[Jason5driver]

Follow the threads I linked above.
Especially "Texas530i".

[scooper]

Yeah that is one of the DIYs I'm following. I have to decide if I'm going to disconnect the thrust and control arms or lower the struts and remove the brake parts.... I think disconnecting the arms would be easier...