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Thread: Rear brake backing plates mounting question

  1. #1
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    Rear brake backing plates mounting question

    I have a rear subframe overhaul under way, and I seem to have made the mistake of having the new hubs and wheel bearings pressed into the RTA before ordering and installing new brake backing plates. I am now trying to figure out a way to mount them, and avoid having to press out the hubs.

    Here is a picture of what I thought of doing, but wanted to make sure I wouldn't run into any issues in going so:

    The red line is where I was thinking of cutting, however, would the holes I would be cutting off be vital to keeping the backing plates firmly on the trailing arm? The caliper bracket bolts seem to pass through them.:



    The blue arrows show the other 2 small screws that mount the backing plate to the trailing arm, and the green bracket is my next question:

    per RealOEM:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...39&hg=34&fg=30

    There are no fasteners listed holding the expanding lock, part #5 to the backing plate, nor the trailing arm. How is this held in otherwise?

    Thanks for the help as usual guys

    (Anybody else see a face in my diagram? )

  2. #2
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    Take backing plate, place in trash.


  3. #3
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    #5 is held in by the brake shoes and springs.

    I too forgot to put mine in and had the hubs removed to do so. Not sure if you can get away with it or not.

    I thought about no parking brake but opted for it.

  4. #4
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    You could always cut where you want, and have someone just tac weld the piece you cut off back on.


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JClark View Post
    Take backing plate, place in trash.
    +1

  6. #6
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    Just make 1 cut, then bend it at the cut so you can slide it on. Then bolt it in place. I hope that makes sense...it's pretty early.

  7. #7
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    two options

    A) remove flanges to get backing plate on. This option WILL destroy the wheel bearings, if you installed FAG wheel bearings, as the race will stay on the flange, and rip apart the wheel bearings

    B) you HAVE to cut the backing plate, deform it, and get it on there.



    ...the two holes for the caliper bolts have ZERO use. Cut at two red lines, deform plate, get it "on there", and then bolt it in....

    P.S. Luke and I ruined a wheel bearing when we decided to TRY and remove the flange with his press to install backing plate.... DIDNT work... $50 bearing that I had JUST repacked with CV2.... GONE
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  8. #8
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    ^Exactly why I didn't want to do that. Cutting them tonight, gonna install all the new stuff tomorrow!

  9. #9
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    Brian Bell cut and welded them. Look in his STX build thread. I thought that was pretty clever.
    Even as a TT/Race car I miss my hand brake. It's useful if you don't want your car to... maybe roll down your driveway... into a tree... with the drivers door open... tearing it half way off. Just *hypothetically* of course.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottbm3 View Post
    +1
    +2
    Check out the 8legs Racing page: https://www.facebook.com/8legsRacing/


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bennyfizzle View Post
    ^Exactly why I didn't want to do that. Cutting them tonight, gonna install all the new stuff tomorrow!
    Guess you got my text around midnight then LOL

    BMW Parts Whore... BUY THEM PLEASE!!!

  12. #12
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    Need that handbrake boys!

  13. #13
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    you decided not to put the E-brake back in?
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  14. #14
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    Originally I had planned on doing a hydraulic setup, but I just spent like $150+ buying brand new ebrake hardware, shoes, springs, backing plates, cables, etc and opted to use the more reliable/less worrisome mechanical setup.


  15. #15
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    If you come up with something, post some pictures please as I'm in the same boat! I pulled my e-brake out, and am not kind of regretting it.

    It is nice to have that piece of mind you may be able to stop the car if you lose all hydraulic pressure!

    My escape plan was to money shift haha...figuring the motor is less expensive than the car with everything on it.

    I hope it works out!
    Andrew Elmore

  16. #16
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    I can't really see how cutting off the section I have pictured would harm anything, like 99Alpine said, though I'm going to try to make one slice on one of the red lines pictured and see if I cant squeeze it on there.

  17. #17
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    you can NOT squeeze it on there without majorly deforming it...

    I actually JUST removed a set of my buddies the other night, and it definitely requires two cuts to get off without really twisting it to get it on....
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  18. #18
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    makes sense now that I think about it, the flange is way too close to the control arm to allow it to squeeze in with only one cut.

    we'll see when i get home

  19. #19
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    this is an old thread but i'm in the same boat ... did the cuts work?

  20. #20
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    like a charm! just like I pictured.

  21. #21
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    wicked do you have any pics of the install?

  22. #22
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    of the e-brake stuff? no, you'll end up bending the plates up pretty good getting it over the trailing arm still, but you can bolt it down and bend it back straight no problem.

  23. #23
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    Thanks again got to get this back in tired of parking in gear

  24. #24
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    hey benny, did you end up making one cut or two?

  25. #25
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    I ended up doing exactly what was shown, but if you're going to be drifting or using the ebrake for things other than what it was originally intended for (parking the car), you're gonna eventually run into weird wearing of the shoes if the backing plates aren't perfectly flat when mounted to the hub.

    Using a hydro now!



    Keeping the stock emergency brake for parking convenience though.
    Last edited by bennyfizzle; 04-04-2012 at 07:54 AM.

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