Bimmerforums Upgrade Garage The Tire Rack
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 60

Thread: Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Wheel Spacers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Amesbury, Massachusetts
    Posts
    1,962
    My Cars
    BMWs and Mini's

    Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Wheel Spacers

    From: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...clopedia.shtml

    Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Wheel Spacers
    This page consists of everything we have learned about wheel spacers for BMWs. A lot of this info also applies to other makes as well. It's a very long and comprehensive collection of data, tips, and technical info. We hope it's useful to you but if you should have any further questions, please call or e-mail us.

    Why Use Wheel Spacers?

    -Appearance. You want to push the wheels out for a better stance and more aggressive look. This is totally subjective to your personal tastes. And we can't tell you what to like...

    -Clearance. Many wheels are not compatible with big brake kits. The spoke of the wheel will scrape the new brake caliper and you need a wheel spacer to push the wheel spoke away from the caliper.

    -Correction. You may have bought a set of wheels that don't have the correct offset for your car. The offset may be too high, resulting in the wheels sitting too far inward. This is both ugly and incorrect as the tire can now rub on the inside wheel well, or on suspension components, etc. A wheel spacer will push the wheel out and 'correct' the offset.

    -Handling. By spacing the wheels further apart, you can make the car more stable and corner better. You can gain a similar effect as adding a wider wheel without the added weight and expense.

    _______________________________________________

    What Size Should I Use?
    This is one of our most commonly asked questions. Unfortunately, it has no easy answer. Picking a spacer that meets your needs is not as easy as it sounds. If it were easy, we'd all be using the same size. There are a few different reasons why people need spacers so every situation ends up being different. But every situation can be resolved by finding out how much available space you have to work with. That means measuring the tire-fender clearance. This empty space will likely be your spacer size. You don't want to exceed the empty space because that will lead to the tire rubbing on the fender. And you don't want to get too thin of a spacer because that may not meet your needs.



    Turner Motorsport may be the biggest BMW wheel spacer dealer in the world. As such we have learned not to make assumptions on spacer size. Every situation is different and the best advice we can give is to measure your car. It's tempting to listen to what everyone else is running but unless they have your exact wheel, exact tire, exact suspension, and exact suspension settings, no one can tell you what spacer size to use. They can only guess... Please keep in mind that spacers that have been installed and tested cannot be returned. This is to be fair to the next customer who expects new, top quality parts from us. Which is all the more reason to be precise about what size you can install.

    Here are some easy ways to measure your wheel gap -

    Old-Fashioned Tape Measure
    With the car on the ground, hang a piece of masking tape from your fender. Stick a quarter or a nickel on the end so that it hangs straight down. Next measure in from the masking tape to the outside edge of your tire. This will tell you how much space you have until the tire would contact the lip of the fender. Pick a spacer that is slightly less than this measurement. This will ensure the tire does not rub on the fender lip.



    Even More Old-Fashioned Rulers
    Same as the method above but if you don't have masking tape to hang from the fender, you can use a straight-edge or ruler and another ruler or tape measure. Gently hold the straight-edge from the bottom of the fender lip. Measure in to the outiside of the tire. The gap between the straight-edge and the tire is your available clearance. Choose a spacer size slightly less than this dimension.



    Wheel Studs and Washers
    For this method, you would purchase at least two wheel studs to thread into the hub and corresponding nuts to lock the wheel down (link to TMS 90mm studs). Remove your wheel and bolts. Thread the studs into the hub. Place washers down the stud to the hub. Slide the wheel over the studs. If it makes contact with the caliper or suspension, add more washers. Once the clearances are set, lock the wheel down with the nuts. Lower the car to the ground and roll - don't drive! - the car back and forth so the suspension will settle. Check your clearances again and also for tire-fender contact. Adjust if necessary. The end thickness of your washers will be your minimum spacer size. If you have space left over before the tire hits the fender, consider going with an even bigger spacer for improved looks.
    Remember to remove your studs or install them the proper way before driving.


    Studs and washers installed in the hub. Pictured is a BBS 90mm stud and 5 washers (roughly 15mm).


    Studs and washers installed with the wheel.


    BMW Wheel Pin and Washers
    If wheel studs are not available to you, you can use the factory BMW wheel pin tool in your tool kit. More than one pin is recommended. This method does not allow you to set the car on the ground as the wheel pin will not support the weight of the car and there is no way to fasten the wheel to the hub. Don't even try it! Remove your wheel from the car. Insert the pins into the hub. Slide M12 sized washers onto the pin down to the hub. Slide your wheel onto the pins until it contacts the caliper, suspension, etc.. Add washers until the wheel sufficiently clears. The thickness of your stack of washers is the size of your spacer.


    Factory BMW wheel pin tool installed with washers.

    _______________________________________________

    Wheel Spacers With Wheel Studs

    Wheel studs protrude from the hub and help to locate the wheel to the hub. A wheel nut (lugnut) would then be used to fasten the wheel to the hub. The issue with using them with spacers is that it can actually push the wheel out too far, leaving you without enough threads to securely fasten the wheel nut. Here are some things to keep in mind when choosing studs and spacers -

    length of available stud sticking out from the hub

    brake rotor hat thickness (varies)

    wheel bolt bore depth (the depth of the hole in the wheel) (varies)

    spacer size

    number of turns on your wheel nut (6.5 turns or 10mm for a 12x1.5 stud/nut)

    For instance, a TMS 75mm wheel stud usually has enough room left over to use a 10mm spacer. However, a big brake kit may have a thicker rotor hat than stock which would reduce your available space on the stud. As well, the thickness inside the bolt bore can vary a lot as well. A thicker wheel will reduce your available threads. The solution here is to use a longer wheel stud.

    TMS Wheel Spacer and Stud Design in SolidWorks
    (click the image below for a super-sized version)
    This image was created by the TMS engineers in SolidWorks - a CAD program. All components are scaled correctly in relation to one another. Here you can see the relationship between wheel spacers, wheels, and the hub (wheel bearing). You can also see how brake rotor hats and wheels also play into spacer fitment.

    This particular drawing is of a E36 M3 with a TMS 12.5mm spacer, a stock BMW brake rotor, a TMS 75mm wheel stud and TMS wheel nut, and a generic wheel design. There's a lot to look at on this drawing but things to pay particular attention to are -

    the fitment of the spacer (green) to the hub (red),

    the fitment of the wheel (grey) to the spacer (green),

    the thickness of the wheel bolt bore where the nut is fastened. A deeper bore will result in less threads for the nut to engage -OR- will require a longer than normal wheel bolt.


    Click here to supersize

    _______________________________________________

    The 10mm Spacer Dilemma

    10mm wheel spacers are one of the most common spacer sizes out there. However, what a lot of people don't realize is that a 10mm size is not a true fitment on any BMW. It's considered a "tuner" fitment, meaning some extra thought is usually required to correctly install them. Only with the right combination of parts will a 10mm spacer fit without a vibration or other fitment issues.

    Factory Hub Lips Are Greater Than 10mm
    The depth of the lip on the car where the spacer will rest will vary. The available lip space may be 11mm and a 10mm spacer with its own hubcentric lip cannot physically fit. The spacer will bottom out on the lip instead of on the brake hat, leaving a gap between the spacer and the rotor hat. The biggest reason for this is the thickness of the rotor hat. The thickness varies by manufacturer and design. A thinner hat (such as used with aluminum Euro Floating rotors) will leave more lip protruding and make the problem worse. Most spacer manufacturers add an extra chamfer, or shoulder, to push the hubcentric lip further out. The extra chamfer clears any extra part of the stock lip. The other way to get the spacer to fit is to shave the stock lip with a metal file. While not the most elegant solution, it works.

    Wheels With Incorrect Beveled Edge
    Some wheels (Kosei in particular) have a beveled mounting surface that is at a different angle than on the spacer. Think of really precise puzzle pieces fitting together - if the pieces are not precisely machined to match, the parts don't fit together very well. The wheel will vibrate since enough of the wheel bore is not resting on the spacer lip.

    Note that all of this only occurs when using a 10mm spacer with its own hubcentric lip. Any spacer over 10mm is not affected by this. The TMS 10mm spacers with Hub Extender is also exempt from this as the spacer has a flush outer face and will not interfere with the mounting surface of the wheel.

    What's the solution? You could shave the stock lip on the car so its depth is under 10mm... Or you could just use a 12mm spacer and be done with it. The difference between a 10mm spacer and a 12mm spacer is the thickness of a nickel! The 2mm difference is smaller than the thickness of a CF memory card or your typical cardboard box. Trust us - 12mm is the way to go. The TMS Hub Extender/10mm Spacer set also works well and allows you to swap spacers in and out for different setups.

    _______________________________________________


    Spacers for Wheel Offset Issues

    A lot of the calls we get are to correct a wheel offset when using a wheel not intended for the chassis. Examples - E36 M3 wheels on an E30 M3 or E46 wheels on an E34. The 3-series cars generally have a higher offset than the 5-series. This results in the wheel being tucked in too far and making contact with brakes, suspension components, or the inner wheel well. The differences in offset are usually around 15-20mm but that's not the whole story...

    Not only is the offset different but the width of the wheel is usually different as well. An E30 M3 had a 7.0" stock wheel. Most E36 wheels are 7.5" or 8.0" and a higher offset. So not only are you fighting the higher offset but the wheel is physically wider. If the wheels were the same width, your spacer would simply be the differences in the offsets. But add the extra width and you now have another dimension to figure out. The mathematical formula is very intricate but you can find offset calculators online. Call us if you need further assistance.

    E39 owners need to be careful because their wheels use a different center bore than most other BMWs. This limits their wheel choices. The E39 center bore is 74.0mm. Just about all other BMWs use a 72.5mm center bore. Depending on what the wheel was originally designed for (E36, E46, etc) there may be an offset difference to deal with as well. In the case of fitting one of these wheels to an E39, H&R has developed a wheel spacer adapter that is 72.5CB on the wheel side and 74.0CB on the hub side. The adapters come in 15mm and 20mm sizes to take up the offset difference. See these adapters on our website here - 15mm adatpers, 20mm adapters.

    Here's a not-uncommon situation:
    E36 M3 wheels on an E30 M3. The stock wheel is a 15x7.0 ET20. The new wheel will be a 17x8.0 ET40. If we just installed the wheel with no spacers, it would be 33mm futher inward than stock but will stick out 7mm more than stock. The stock E30 M3 has a lot of wheel clearance before the stock wheel will hit the fender (20mm using the measuring methods above). So right away we know that a big spacer can be used without worrying about it rubbing on the outside fender. Let's say we put just a 7mm spacer on - it will bring the new wheel to the same position as the stock wheel on the outside, but will still be 26mm tucked in towards the strut (and rub on the strut). But we know that we can safely go another 20mm more and still not touch the fender. If we put a 25mm spacer on the new wheel, it will rest 18mm further out than stock and only 8mm further in. We now have a wheel that is spaced out enough to sit flush with the fender and not rub on the inside!

    Another common scenario:
    E46 M3 19" ZCP wheels on an E92 335 coupe. The stock sport package wheel is a 18x8.0 ET34 and 18x8.5 ET37. The E46 M3 uses a 19x8.0 ET47 in front and a 19x9.5 ET27 in the rear. Using our calculations, the front will sit further in by 13mm. A 15mm spacer will bring it back to the factory wheel stance. Measuring the stock wheel beforehand we know that it will take a 12mm spacer before the stock wheel contacts the fender. Therefore, adding 15 and 12 gets us to 27mm. So the E46 M3 front wheel will take a 20-25mm spacer in order to sit flush with the E92 fender. The M3 rear wheel will sit only 3mm in but an additional 23mm further out. Measuring beforehand, we found that the stock wheel only has 15mm of clearance before it hits the fender. The M3 wheel will most likely rub on the fender, requiring the fender to be rolled or negative camber added for more clearance.

    _______________________________________________

    Miscellaneous Notes and Details on Spacers

    -Most BMWs will take a 15-20mm spacer when used with the stock wheel/tire setup. This is because the German TUV (similar to our own DOT) still requires adequate clearance for snow chains. These are still widely used in Europe, especially in The Netherlands, Norway, and Sweden even though they are obsolete or irrelevant in other markets. The TUV also requires that every car in Germany be equipped with either dedicated snow tires or snow chains for winter driving.


    -All BMWs use hubcentric wheels. When mounted to the car, the wheel rests on a lip instead of the wheel bolts or studs. The lip is usually 9-10.5mm in depth. The lip contributes to the strength of the wheel and the wheel cannot safely be used without a lip. The wheel bolts are not strong enough to support the weight and loads generated through the wheel.

    Any spacer smaller than 10mm will not have a hubcentric lip on it. It's physically impossible since the spacer slides over the existing lip but is not thick enough to take the lip's place (the standard lip still protrudes through the spacer). With a 9mm lip, a 5mm spacer will only leave 4mm of stock lip left for the wheel to rest on. This is important to keep in mind when considering your wheel/spacer setup. A wheel with a beveled edge on the back will not adequately rest on the lip, resulting in a vibration because the wheel is not truly centered on the hub.

    For most 5-lug BMW applications, Turner Motorsport offers a hub-extender. This takes the place of your hub's dust cap and adds an extra 10mm of lip for the wheel to rest on. Using the example above, instead of 4mm left over on the lip, you now have 14mm of lip to use. With the hub extenders, you can also change spacers around without fear of losing lip space - it can be used with a 3mm, 5mm, 8mm, or 10mm spacer.

    Spacers with their own integrated hubcentric lip are: 10mm*, 12mm, 12.5mm, 15mm, 18mm, 20mm, 25mm, and 30mm.
    * -- Note that H&R and Turner Motorsport each make a 10mm hubcentric spacer but due to interferences between the spacer and lip, it's best to leave this to specialized applications. The lip on the car must be shaved down so the 10mm spacer will fit flush on the rotor hat.


    -When talking about tire sizes, remember that sizes vary a great deal from one manufacturer to another. Even though the tire size is listed as "245", the actual widths can be hugely different among brands and even tire types. Tire manufacturers publish their actual widths on their websites. This is important because a setup with a wider 225 tire may rub versus a setup running a narrower 225 tire.


    -When installing spacers, never use anti-seize or grease between the spacer and the rotor hat face. In fact, you should scrub this area clean with Scotch-Brite or a wire wheel attachment. A thin amount of anti-seize can be placed on the lip of the hub for the spacer to sit on and on the spacer lip for the wheel to rest on. The number one reason for wheel vibrations with spacers is rust or some other substance on the rotor hat.


    -Removing spacers can be a frustrating experience. Many spacers have a chamfer along the inner edge and with a hammer and chisel, the spacer can be knocked off the hub. However, this will easily damage the spacer. The newest generation of TMS Wheel Spacers include pockets around the entire circumference of the spacer. This allows you to pry the spacer without damaging the material


    Last edited by TurnerMS; 12-16-2009 at 11:32 AM.
    Doug Mahar
    Turner Motorsport Sales
    / // Parts and Performance for BMWs
    16 South Hunt Road
    Amesbury, MA 01913
    800-280-6966

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Great White North
    Posts
    11,052
    My Cars
    various
    excellent article, bookmarked

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,136
    My Cars
    '93 325is
    thank you

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Ma/Ri
    Posts
    8,000
    My Cars
    95 318ic/sc +11 tsx
    excellent article!!!!!

    i have a few questions.

    I need a 3mm clearance for an acs type 3 to clear a brembo caliper.
    do i have to buy hub extenders as well? i know there's a centering ring on the acs, will this interfere with the spacer

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Amesbury, Massachusetts
    Posts
    1,962
    My Cars
    BMWs and Mini's
    Quote Originally Posted by kosta View Post
    excellent article!!!!!

    i have a few questions.

    I need a 3mm clearance for an acs type 3 to clear a brembo caliper.
    do i have to buy hub extenders as well? i know there's a centering ring on the acs, will this interfere with the spacer
    Hard to say w/o looking at the wheel and the size of the bevel. Probably best to go with one to be 100% sure, if you have enough room in the wheel that is for the extender to protrude into.
    Doug Mahar
    Turner Motorsport Sales
    / // Parts and Performance for BMWs
    16 South Hunt Road
    Amesbury, MA 01913
    800-280-6966

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    18,041
    My Cars
    '04 VW Passat 1.8T 5sp
    Someone clarify this part for me:
    Spacers with their own integrated hubcentric lip are: 10mm*, 12mm, 12.5mm, 15mm, 18mm, 20mm, 25mm, and 30mm.
    * -- Note that H&R and Turner Motorsport each make a 10mm hubcentric spacer but due to interferences between the spacer and lip, it's best to leave this to specialized applications. The lip on the car must be shaved down so the 10mm spacer will fit flush on the rotor hat.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    H-town, TX
    Posts
    5,488
    My Cars
    95 m3, 03 X5, 06 X3
    I just picked up a set of used Kosei's. Build date of 1/08. They fit on my vorshlag 10mm spacers, without any issues. I was worried about the 10mm spacer issue at first since I did some research on it, but they worked fine.
    #71 SM
    04 Silver Grey M3
    95 Arctic Silver M3
    03 X5 3.0L Titanium Silver
    07 GX470- Silver

    Molon Labe...
    Excellence is a habit, not an act.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    wi
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    99 323is
    I just bought some wheels with tires off a 95 5er, ACS type 3 17" wheels. Couldn't pass 'em up for $350. They have a low offset, so instead of rubbing suspension components, they are rubbing fenders. Tire size is 245 45 17. How would I go about adapting my car to fit the offset of these wheels. I know that I'll have to get different tires in the front cuz they rub, but they are too wide all around. Do I modify chassis parts, or roll fenders? If I had an M, they would fit easy
    Last edited by banditpimp; 12-31-2009 at 06:18 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    18,041
    My Cars
    '04 VW Passat 1.8T 5sp
    Quote Originally Posted by banditpimp View Post
    I just bought some wheels with tires off a 95 5er, ACS type 3 17" wheels. Couldn't pass 'em up for $350. They have a low offset, so instead of rubbing suspension components, they are rubbing fenders. Tire size is 245 45 17. How would I go about adapting my car to fit the offset of these wheels. I know that I'll have to get different tires in the front cuz they rub, but they are too wide all around. Do I modify chassis parts, or roll fenders? If I had an M, they would fit easy
    Roll the fenders or run skinny, stretched tires ... or both depending on how much you rub.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    wi
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    99 323is
    Quote Originally Posted by slocar View Post
    Roll the fenders or run skinny, stretched tires ... or both depending on how much you rub.
    Those seem like the obvious things to do, but will it create a hazardous camber? What about my wheel bearings? I love these wheels, but maybe I should just think about reselling if it involves too much modification. Plus it might look goofy with them extending out far. Any input would be much appreciated.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Walnut, CA
    Posts
    1,131
    My Cars
    1993 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by banditpimp View Post
    Those seem like the obvious things to do, but will it create a hazardous camber? What about my wheel bearings? I love these wheels, but maybe I should just think about reselling if it involves too much modification. Plus it might look goofy with them extending out far. Any input would be much appreciated.
    Regarding the offsets on the wheels, how low is the offset? Coming off of a 1995 5 series, the offset should be around high teens to low 20's. The lowest I've see is 15mm and highest was 28mm off a 5'er. Anything lower than 17mm offset would severely poke on a E36 and you would need flares/widebody kit.

    Regarding the rolling and running skinny stretched tires it won't affect your camber or wheel bearings until you start actually adjusting camber. lol As long as you don't excessively adjust your camber your bearings should be fine.

    Let us know what the offsets are and we can help you more.

    To stay on topic, I will most likely be buying some spacers after I measure the difference the "old school" way on my wheels after I get my lug stud kit.
    Last edited by angeleus; 12-31-2009 at 06:15 PM.
    1993 325i

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    wi
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    99 323is
    Well, just measured them up, and they are 10" wide and there is 5" of backspace. Therefore the offset is zero. They were off a 1995 e34 540i. The wheels came with the car when she bought it a few years ago, along with the stocks. The lady I bought them from said she was going to keep the car as a dd. So see said she didn't need two sets. Other than that, she didn't know anything about them. Saw them on Craigslist, and almost s*** my pants when she only wanted $350. Like I said ACS type III Racing with tires. The fronts don't really stick out but rub wheel wells, so smaller tires are the way to go. But when the are on the rear, They stick out from the fender about 3/4" and have about 3/4" height til contact with the fender. Looks pretty funky.
    So, what is the best thing to do?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Southern CA
    Posts
    47
    My Cars
    '97 M3 & '73 240Z LS3
    My [un]qualified .02 ... sell them. I am betting that you will spend nearly the purchase price in parts & labor just to try to mount wheels on your car that are not engineered for it.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tacoma, Wa
    Posts
    250
    My Cars
    black e30 325is
    Amazing great work with the write up I learned a lot!!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    775
    My Cars
    '96 328is
    anyone know of 6 or 7mm spacers?

    This is my situation. I currently have 17" Kosei K1s on my car with a Stoptech 332mm BBK. There is a generic 5mm spacer on there and it clears my Bilstein PSS9 with a fraction of space (maybe around the width of a business card!).

    I'm replacing those wheels and tires (which are Direzza Z1) with new wheels (same Kosei K1s, I assume that there will be no difference?) and Sumitomo HTR Z IIIs which seem to have the same section width (9.4").


    So....

    my questions are:


    Do I need hubcentric spacers regardless of the size (including my current 5mm)?

    Are there any 6 or 7mm spacers available?


    I already have a set of UUC 12mm spacers but when I test fitted them, they stuck out a lot. I suppose I could roll the front fenders if using these is the best choice. One thing I noticed is that UUC lists their spacers as:

    * Correct 73.6mm hubcentric center bore for perfect fit


    While Turner lists a 72.5mm center bore.

    I also have 60mm studs in place which seems like it may be too short for the 12mm spacer (I don't remember what it looked like when I first fit them).

    So, go with a 6 or 7mm (if they exist), use my 12mm or get something else all together? Sorry for all the questions but this is confusing to me.

    Thanks.


  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    12
    My Cars
    '00 M5
    What size spacers did you end up using? What size sumi's are you running?
    RSB
    '00 M5 - Daily Driver
    '99 M3 - Track Car

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    775
    My Cars
    '96 328is
    if you are talking to me...

    I haven't installed them yet but will use the 12mm spacers. I bought 75mm studs (hope they are along enough!) and bought the 245/45 17" HTR Z IIIs on new Kosei K1s


  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    12
    My Cars
    '00 M5
    if you are talking to me...

    I haven't installed them yet but will use the 12mm spacers. I bought 75mm studs (hope they are along enough!) and bought the 245/45 17" HTR Z IIIs on new Kosei K1s


    Sorry, yes I am talking to you Gsolo. Please keep us posted. I'm running 245/45/17's Hoosiers at the track. I don't have any issues but they do bottom out every now and then against the strut when I hit a dip and fully compress the suspension. Car is slightly lowered on eibach springs and bilstein sport shocks.

    Used to run 235/40/17 HTR Z's but they quit making the Z's in that size. Would like to run the HTR Z's in the 245/45 size but not sure if they will fit without having the strut rubbing problem. A minor problem on the track but could be a real issue on the street when I'm actually loading stuff in the trunk. I know the fronts will work with spacers but not sure the rear will.

    Like to understand your success with this size tire. I know the HRT Z's are about a half inch narrower in the tread as the Hoosiers so it might be OK.

    Please keep us posted.
    RSB
    '00 M5 - Daily Driver
    '99 M3 - Track Car

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    '93 325i Convertible

    +42 offset

    So if I read correctly a higher offset means the wheel sits too far inside the body and a spacer will correct?

    I'm looking at a set of Redline 104s 17x7 with a +42 offset ('93 E30 vert). I'd like to run at least a set of 215x40 (would prefer a slightly wider tire and possibly 35 sidewall).

    Thanks,
    Doc

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    12
    My Cars
    '00 M5
    gsolo,
    How are the 245/45/17 sumi's working out for you? I'm curious to know.
    Thanks,
    RSB
    '00 M5 - Daily Driver
    '99 M3 - Track Car

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jayhawk Central!
    Posts
    2,225
    My Cars
    11 135i DCT, 01 325ci 5m
    First of all great write up. My question is what size bolt/threads are our lug nuts? I just want to do a quick little test of how some wheels I'm looking at buying will fit with their lower offset, so I just want to buy a threaded rod from a hardware store or somewhere similar instead of an actual wheel stud like the BBS or TMS. So what do I buy?
    Life's simple--You make choices and you don't look back._____Linea Corse Z2S 19x8.5/9.5 et30/22.5 235/35//255/30 T1Rs

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    m5

    whats the best offset??

    what is the best offset on a 2004 5series if im buying a 20x10 inch wheel on the rear? what offset is best to make it look flushed? help me

    your car looks nice can you help me with my car i want a flushed look on the rear tire of my 5 series 2004 if im buying a 20x10 wheel what sthe best offset\/
    Last edited by gennesebomb; 11-18-2010 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    m3 1999 bmw

    autopartsway

    hey buddy i do have the same kind of issue regarding brembo caliper but then i straight away search via online and find the sloution through www.autopartsway.ca they really guide me well so you may try to catch them and get the right kind of technical support

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Destin, FL
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    01 540i 6 speed

    540i 6speed 2001

    I was wondering if i can use these

    E65-6
    part# bmw 6 757 375
    they are 20x9 and 20x10

    Thank you for your help.

    Aaron

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    742
    My Cars
    95E36
    damn, i missed the part about not putting anti sieze on the rotor hat face. I'll clean it off next time I take off the wheels and just leave the antisieze on the hub lip. But so far though, not getting any vibrations(knock on wood)

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •